Question about Refrigerators
My Maytag ABC2037DES refrigerator is running perpetually. The freezer is staying cool but the refrigerator is not cooling. The refrigerator air duct is open. From talking to a repairman last year, it seems this air duct sends air from the freezer section into the refrigerator. With it open, I should be having cold air come up from the freezer. But, I get nothing. This problem happened to me about a year ago as well. After turning the refrigerator off for a day, and ruining all my food, the refrigerator operated normally. I could not get a repairman out during the problem. By the time the repairman came out, he could find nothing wrong. I was out $250 in spoiled food. The refrigerator is 3 years old. Any thoughts on how to fix this? My Amana (Maytag) three-year old 'fridge is too warm in both compartments. Coils don't appear that dirty, and the fan is running... Luckily, I kept my 24-year old Maytag in our garage. It's holding everything right now. It NEVER broke down! Must be Amana that's the problem...And I sure hate to support Maytag after the posts I've read! Thank you
It is likely you could fix it YOURSELF
for less than the cost of your ruined food...
(we can do this).
Refrigerators... while divinely simple... are self
sufficient (noble) appliances that are designed to
take care of themselves. Clean them, love them & they
will serve faithfully for DECADES...
ELSE... comment me back (I do love'em).
I have a '94 Amana.. Counter depth, STAINLESS,
water/ice door service...
(the only appliance that survived our "kitchen refresh")
Likewise mine also DOES NOT have a DEFROST TIMER...
but an electronic PC (printed circuit) CONTROL BOARD...
Mine (of course) is MANUFACTURER DISCONTINUED
so count yourself "LUCKY" ...
NOT only are your parts available... but
reasonably priced... (see below).
If you "refrigerator" has been UNPLUGGED for
three days... (and I am right) it should run NICELY
for a week or 10 days... before FAILING on the "REFRIGERATOR" side...
(frosting up... blocking AIR FLOW).
You are most likely suffering from a DEFROST
Not unlike the simple TIMER the DEFROST circuit
operates 2 or 3 times each day...
(about 45 minutes).
As the entire interior of your "FRIG" is soft
plastic... going above 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit
could/would case serious damage to your
REFRIGERATOR'S soft plastic interior...
Ergo... your defrost heater is under the
control of a DEFROST THERMOSTAT... designed
to go "OPEN" (no connect) at temperatures
above 55 degrees (room temp (chilly))...
This is ENOUGH to melt frost but not affect your
food... nor cause damage to the soft PLASTIC
To test for DEFROST issues on a single EVAPORATOR
refrigerator (yours)... you need only look through the vents of one that has been running a COUPLE of WEEKS.
You will likely see an EXCESSIVE build-up of FROST.
/If you look into your defrost pan... it s likely quite DRY...
Testing with a clean, fresh piece of typing paper ..
would QUICKLY leave water marks on a fresh [piece
(Same as testing for a leaky valve under your sink).
((a single drop will QUICKLY mark the paper)).
There are only 3 parts to YOUR defrost circuit:
- Defrost PC Board
- Defrost Thermostat
- Evaporator Heater element
The only other (REMOTE) possibility would be the
AIR-FLOW is being blocked by a bad "DAMPER"
(also has video instructions (see below)).
Part: PC Board (WPW10503278)
Damper Control (part number WP67003903)
Carnac the Magnificent
PartSelect Appliance Parts and Repair Help
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Posted on Mar 05, 2017
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your condenser coil is frozen up with condensate...need to fix the defrost system, most likely it is the control sub module.
Posted on Aug 20, 2007
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