Question about Stoves Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.
Posted on Nov 07, 2007
Our oven had the same fault.
It turns out that the air intake was blocked.
The air intake is at the front, just below the bottom oven door. Some liberal sucking with a hoover sorted the problem instantly.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.
318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer
318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer
Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.
The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.
To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.
NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.
Posted on May 13, 2009
We replaced the igniter which I bought from the appliance repair service. We now have a working oven.
Thankyou for responding to my email.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing) - check the amperage on
the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style -
amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If
than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not
come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage
110-120v AC. Faulty gas valve is uncommon, but still a
small possibility. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528,
WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
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