Question about Refrigerators
If its a G.E. make first check the PTC overload on the compressor to make sure compreesor is operating, if this isnt,check voltages on ptc,if no line voltage here,then check for the motherboard in the rear behind a panel as this board when bad will make digital readout go out and lights strobe and you may hear a clicking noise from there also as the lights flicker or strobe this board failure can be caused from a surge within the unit by a light bulb burning out or a power surge from outside too
Posted on Feb 11, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try to defrost the unit, if it wont work check the air vents if air is
present. Check also if some of your stuff may be obstructing the air
sample of air vent location :
Posted on Apr 07, 2008
I finally called GE about the non-working LED's and the temperature fluctuation. It's a known problem as many consumers have posted online. I called 800-386-1215 several times. What I found is I'd get different menu options nearly each time I called. The way I got to a 'helpful' human follows: Call above number; you will/may here a voice that states only 'for recalled appliances press 9' (may also have options for repair or parts) PRESS 0; next menu PRESS 5; you'll hear 'for less than 1 yr old press 1' and 'for more than 1 yr press 2'. In my case I pressed 2, then got a menu with 'for refrigerators PRESS 2'. Spoke to a woman who never denied that GE has a motherboard problem. She offered to provide a free motherboard but no labor. I asked (to be sure) if I would have to pay labor, she said yes or I could have $400 off a new crappy GE fridge. She said I would have to have a repairman come to diagnose the problem, then order the part and then come back to repair. I then said, 'You're telling me that I have to pay for TWO service calls to repair a known GE defect???? How much should I expect to pay for these TWO service calls???' She then asked me to hold, then came back on the line and told me that GE would pay the labor for the repair.
I also asked if GE was willing to do anything about the 25 cent door latch that cracked after 11 months (and is attached to the door gasket a $228.00 part) or the rusting wire freezer baskets and was told no. Hey, worth a try! The fact that they said no ensures that I will continue on my crusade to warn anyone who'll listen not to buy GE! Keep calling, after I got the right menu the wait was short the whole call was less than 15 minutes.
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
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