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Please supply resistance values for stator for Honda generator EX 650 GE100

I have measured the resistance main winding 50 hz 9.6 ohms 60 hz 7.8 ohms condenser winding 50 hz 6.3 ohms 60 hz 6.1 ohms is this in spec as there is no voltage generated

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 5603 Answers

SOURCE: runs good but makes no power

The resistance is quite low.

Search Google for method using two 150 watt bulbs in series between your generator and utility power to recharge the rotor residual magnetism soo it will start generating again.

Here is the link:

http://www.endtimesreport.com/dead_gen.html

Posted on Nov 02, 2009

  • 905 Answers

SOURCE: I have a generator that does not produce any

As long as you have continuity through the stator and rotor windings, and no continuity from the windings to the core, you should be good.

If the brush block was replaced due to it being defective, take a look at the diode and capacitor regulator as well. Using a multimeter, the diode should indicate continuity in one direction, infinite resistance in the other. If you get this, then replace the capacitor. If not, then replace the diode, and likely the capacitor as well.

Posted on Jun 12, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Honda EV 6010 generator, no

Check for burnt stator, if that ok dismantle the generator end, remove the rotor and fully clean the rotor rings.

Posted on May 09, 2011

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Brushless powermate PM0543250 no output after

If it is a brusheless generator and you need to flash it do this.

Make yourself a short male to male extension wire that has only mle ends on it. Use another extension wire also. The short male to male cord you will use to adapt your extension wire to the generator. Plug the extension wire into your home power outlet (115VAC). The use the male to male cord you just made to go from the extension wire to your generator. Turn the generator output power switch ON. Wait 2 minutes and LISTEN for a 60 cycle hum in the stator. As the magnetism ge stronger the HUM will get louder. (TWO minutes should be long enough to build up a field in the stator and Rotor.) Turn OFF the output power switch and remove extension wire from the adapter (male to male). Remember the Male to male adapter has power on it if it is still plugged into house power. Make sure to remove the male to male adapter from the estension wire and the generator plug.
Start unit. Turn on output power and apply a load like a drill or a ceramic heater. It should work.

I am with you... I have a hard time grasping the concept that the stator just failed due to non use.

Let me know what happens. Worst case we can go through each of the stator windings checking resistance of the two 120VAC windings and the condensor (capacitance) windings It looks to me like you have already read them out with good results.

Try the extension wire with male to male adapter thing... and please let me know the result.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on Sep 03, 2011

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1 Answer

How to test portable generator stator for short in windings


You will need what the factory resistances valuea re supposed to be, cold. Then use a high quality ohm meter with 3 decimal places, disconenct all wires off the stator. Check each wire with a meter to the ground frame, if there is any value, stator is shorted. Then check between stator wires ie L1 L2 and compare resistance value with factory values.

Oct 02, 2014 | Briggs & Stratton Electrical Supplies

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How to test stator


You will need a very high quality ohm meter that can account for test lead resisitance. Stator wire leads are ohmed right off the stator and their value is generally low 0.8 or less ohms (each generator model and windings is different) and needs comparing with a specific model factory service manual. Temperatore also affects this reading. Often best left to a pro with a low impedendance meter or a device called a wheatstone bridge, as the resistance is often too low to see on a conventional meter

Aug 04, 2012 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...

1 Answer

My robin subaru 11hp gen just stopped producing elect


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Robin 11 Hp I am guessing here... RGV6100 (Model?)

Things to look for:
1. Open the control panel and inspect the capacitors and the YELLOW wires from the capacitors going to the stator. Look for signs of wax leakage from the long silver 28 MFD capacitors. You would see it in the bottom of the control panel enclosure. Probe the capacitors with a meter on a resistance (ohms) scale of R X 10,000. You should see a huge jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity. Reverse the test leads looking for the same indication.

2. Inspect for any loose connections from the control panel to the stator. Look for dark or hot connections. Repair as needed.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Stator checks

* STATOR

(1) Measure the insulation resistance between

BLUE lead and the core.

(2) Measure the insulation resistance between

WHITE lead and the core.

(3) Measure the insulation resistance between

YELLOW lead and the core.

(4) Measure the insulation resistance between
BROWN lead and the core.

AC Winding
White / Red = 0.2 Ohm
Black / Blue = 0.25 Ohm

Condensor Winding
Yellow / Yellow = 0.58 Ohm


* ROTOR

Measure the insulation across one of the soldered
terminals of the rotor and the core

Then test across the 2 soldered terminals of the rotor.

Resistance = 1.75 Ohm

NOTE 1 :

Because a diode is soldered to the coil ends at

the terminals, resistance may be measured only

when tester probes touche the terminals in one

combination of polarity. Therefore, if no resistance
reading appears, try checking in reverse polarity.


Diode rectifier test (Lovated between the 2 capacitors)

Orange wire should read to all of the other terminals.
Both Brown wires should read to the Brown White wire (Note polarity)

Those are pretty much the checks that you can do and should reveal where the problem lies.

I think you may have a burned wire / terminal somewhere inside the control panel.
Usually when they just stop working the failures are
1. The rotor (Bad and horribly expensive news)
2. Capacitor wires (Yellow) open
3. Stator wires damaged.
The stators on these units do not usually fail.

All manuals for this unit can be found here (Owner's / parts / Service)
http://www.robinamerica.com/productsupport.aspx?pid=28

If the link doesn't work use:
http://www.robinamerica.com Choose Power products and then customer support. Manuals.

This should give you something to work with. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Aug 31, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Coleman powermate generator has no output. have changed diodes, capacitor and brushes. i have 12 volts across the brushes but no output at the receptacles. coleman powermate 0545005 5000w


Disconnect the leads going to the brushes, and check for continuity (resistance) of the field winding. You should be able to measure *something* on the order of a few ohms. If you have resistance, then check each brush contact to the shaft that the field winding is on. There should not be any resistance at all, if there is, you have a shorted field winding and will need to be replaced.

Check the resistance of the stator winding next, make sure that nothing is connected to the generator, disconnect the stator wires if you are able (label them!). Check for resistance between the leads (2 wires for a 2 pole, 4 wires for a 4 pole). If there is no resistance, then the stator is open, and will need to be replaced. Also check for resistance from each wire to the frame of the alternator, there should not be any resistance here (indicating a shorted stator). If there is, then you have a shorted stator, and will need to have it replaced.

Replacement is likely to be impractical, probably cheaper to buy another generator with the same engine and keep the old engine as a spare. Still, contact an automotive starter / alternator shop for prices.

Feb 07, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I have a generator that does not produce any volts. I replaced the brush block because it was bad with no help. I took resistance readings of the rotor and stator. Are these in spec?? briggs and stratton...


As long as you have continuity through the stator and rotor windings, and no continuity from the windings to the core, you should be good.

If the brush block was replaced due to it being defective, take a look at the diode and capacitor regulator as well. Using a multimeter, the diode should indicate continuity in one direction, infinite resistance in the other. If you get this, then replace the capacitor. If not, then replace the diode, and likely the capacitor as well.

May 28, 2010 | Briggs & Stratton Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

What does the ce letter come on when i turn on


It is an overcurrent error and only two thing that your washer is in trouble with.The winding in the stator assembly is short circuited or the main board is bad. Check the winding.
  1. Remove the back cover.
  2. Remove the large bolt in the center shaft. You may need a helper to hold the inside of the drum.
  3. Pull the rotor off the shaft.
  4. Remove the two screws from the tub bracket.
  5. Remove the six bolts on the stator.
  6. Unplug the two connectors on the stator.
  7. Pull the stator off the tub.
  8. Grab a multitester and measure the resistance between the terminals of the 3-pin connector on the stator.
  9. Resistance should be between 5 to 10 ohms, else replace the stator with part number 1266809. Price ranges from $100 to $150.
  10. Install the new stator in reverse order of disassembly.
  11. If resistance is between 5 to 10 ohms, replace the main board. Part number 1268306 and costs about $65-$80$
  • Remove the 2 screws on the back of the top panel.
  • Pull the top plate backward and upward.
  • Disconnect the POWER connector and SENSOR
    SWITCH ASSEMBLY from the main board assembly.
  • Remove the Protect Cover.
  • Disconnect the connectors.
  • Remove 1 screw on the back.
  • Disassemble the Main PWB.
  • Install new main board in reverse order.

Nov 06, 2009 | LG WM2688HWM TROMM SteamWasher

1 Answer

DOES ANYONE KNOW ALLGENERATOR WINDING RESISTANCES ?


5 Ohms at the rotor.
Disconnect all the stator wires and measure each one to ground, it should read opened.
Before disconnecting wires, mark which are hot and which are neutral. Measure between the hot neutral wires and some should read at least 0.5 ohms. You should have T1 and T2 reading 0.5 and T3 and T4 reading 0.5. T1 and T3 should read opened, T1 to T4 should read opened. Also, T2 to T3 should be opened and T2 to T4 opened.

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3 Answers

Voltage output is only 50 volts instead of 120 volts


If you need troubleshooting help for your Honda or other portable generator there's nothing better than a handy schematic. This detailed diagram will help you troubleshoot your portable generator. In publications or online you may find a variety of schematics for Honda or other portable generators.

One handy book, which can be ordered online and delivered straight to your home offers troubleshooting guidance, including a number of schematics, for Honda, ATI, Coleman, Generic, John Deere, Mitsubishi, North Star, Porter Cable and Robin Subaru portable generators.

The book, entitled, Small AC Generator Repair and Service Manual - 1st Edition Volume 2, is discounted for under $30 on one Web site.

This portable generator troubleshooting publication is 420 pages, replete with schematics in the former of illustrations and diagrams.

Jan 25, 2009 | Honda 3000 Watt Portable Generator

2 Answers

Coleman generator model PM0555523 only have 1.9volts output


Hi,
I couldn't find anywhere to get a wiring diagram for any models of Coleman Powermate, they are out of business. Not to worry, I've repaired LOTs of generators so I'll use this answer as a general one for how to troubleshoot "no output" problems and refer to it in other answers. My apologies for the stuff that doesn't apply to your situation.

The first thing to know is that portable generators have to be run with some kind of load about once every 3 months in order to keep working. So if you've stored your generator in the shed for a couple of years it may just need to be flashed. If that's not the case the rest of this procedure applies.
I'll write one of these about how to flash a generator when someone asks for it on FIxYa :-)

If the engine runs more or less as it always did, we can eliminate it as a problem. If it ran more slowly than it is supposed to it would be a problem. If it ran but sounded like it was loaded even with nothing plugged in that would be a different problem. It should run at just over 3600 rpm just like a lawn mower.

Looking at the back end of the generator you'll find a plastic squareish cover held in place by 4 long bolts that run all the way thru the generator, this is the endbell cover. Get out a 7/16 box end wrench and a socket and remove the 4 bolts, there will sometimes be a ground wire and lug on one of them that you just move out of the way. Gently pull the cover off if it doesn't fall right off the end of the generator, there may be wires connected from the endbell cover to the windings of the generator. There may also be a set of graphite brushes sticking out of the endbell cover. Look at the wires that come out of the part of the generator that doesn't move (stator), there will be at least 2 and most likely 4 of them that are larger and go off to the outlets of the generator. Look for obviously broken wires. You can check these power windings of the generator with an ohm meter, on the 4 wire models you should find that there are 2 sets of 2 wires that measure less than an ohm with no connection between them, none of the stator winding wires should be connected to the generator frame.

Looking at the end of the generator you will now see one of 3 basic ways of building a generator;
a) nothing at all connected to the rotor part of the generator, and a capacitor with 2 wires that go to a winding on the stationary part of the generator. This is a brushless generator.
b) a flat plastic plate connected to the shaft of the rotor with 2 metal rings in the surface of it. There will be 2 brushes in the endbell cover under a little PC board, and 2 wires will run to a winding on the stator.
c) a brush holder assembly that has 2 brushes riding perpendicular to the rotor shaft on 2 metal slip rings. There will be wires connected to this assembly, on some models these wires go directly to the windings on the stator, on others they connect to a voltage regulator module.

If this is a brushless model, check the capacitor first. You can visually inspect it for cracks, obvious damage, broken wires and so on but the only definitive test is to get a meter and measure it. The value in microfarads will be written on the side of the capacitor somewhere.
If the capacitor was good, look at the diodes and movs located on the rotor itself. Usually these are tucked into 2 little slots in the plastic frame that the rotor winding wires wrap around. If you don't see any visual damage like broken wires, burned parts, etc. You'll have to unsolder one end of each of the diodes to test them. Just unsolder one end and unwind the wires for the 3 parts that connect together (winding, diode, and the mov behind it), this keeps us from getting the diodes back in the wrong direction later. Use the diode function of a DMM to test the diodes, check the rotor windings with an ohm meter (should be tens of ohms from the disconnected wire to the other end of that diode) and check that the mov(s) aren't shorted.
If all of that stuff checked good, put it all back together and try flashing the generator.

Generators with brushes:
On both types of brush arrangements above, examine the brushes themselves first. They have to be long enough to press against the slip rings. Also look closely at the slip rings themselves, under normal use they'll become dark and a little worn but too much junk on them is enough to keep the generator from making its rated power. Clean them with a bit of fine emery if they are dirty and the using an ohm meter measure from one slip ring to the other, you should get something between 10 and 100 ohms depending on exactly what pawer rating your generator has. The main things to look for are that the rotor winding you're measuring is not an open circuit and isn't a dead short. Also measure between either slip ring and the shaft or the rotor, you should get an open circuit.

On those models with a brush holder assembly you'll need to remove it to do the above checks. Mark it first with a Sharpie or other pen so that you'll be able to get it back in the same direction it came out, then using a 9/32 socket or nut driver take the bolt out of it. Be careful as this is not a good bolt to break off. On all brush assemblies look for evidence of melting of the plastic housing, when this happens the brushes can't make proper contact with the slip rings.

If the rotor checked good, and the brushes looked good, we need ot check out the part that supplies the voltage to the brushes. On the models with a flat plate commutator ( case b above), there will be 2 (usually yellow) wires that come from the stator and go either to a plug on a pc board mounted in the endbell cover, go to a metal plate with 2 diodes mounted on it on these older models just disconnect the wires and check the diodes and the capacitor, check the stator winding too. On models with a pc board, unplug the wires from the board and check the stator winding. Next take out the 3 phillips screws that hold the board to the endbell and look for burnt or bad solder at the place where the socket pins go into the board. Other than visual inspection of the board there is not much on it that someone unfamiliar with electronic power supplies can test on it. Check for broken wires on the brushes themselves.
The only other thing to do on these flat plate models is to reassemble them, flash them, and see if that fixes the problem.

On models that have a brush holder assembly with just 2 wires going directly to the stator, mark and remove one of the wires on the brush holder then measure the resistance of the winding from the wire you removed to the other wire where it attaches to the brush holder. You should not see an open circuit, and this winding should have an open circuit to the generator frame (as in not shorted inside the stator). Resistance values of a few hundred to a couple of thousand ohms are normal for these windings. If all of that is good you may have a bad part on the brush holder assembly, like the pc boards above troubleshooting them is not for the untrained.

On those models with a voltage regulator module connected to the brush holder assembly, find the wires on the voltage regulator that go to the stator (usually a blue and red wire marked 4 and 6), and make the test described above. If that checks good remove one of the wires that go to the brushes and measure the resistance across the brushes, you should see a resistance that's almost the same value as when you measured across the slip rings earlier, if not the brushes are bad or misinstalled. As far as I know there is no way to repair the potted voltage regulator modules used in most small portable generators. If you've gotten to this point and a good visual inspection of the voltage regulator module hasn't convinced you it's burned of otherwise broken rate this answer and ask me directly for how to troubleshoot around the module they're expensive little buggers.

OK, if you've gotten this far you should have found something broken in the generator that you could replace, now you just have to figure out where to get a replacement part for your particular generator.
I know a little about that too but I'll insist on having to be asked.
If you got this far and found that you've got a broken rotor or stator my advice would be to go look for another generator if possible. It isn't hard to change out either of them really, but it does require skills that are best taught in person by someone who has done it before.
If you got this far and haven't found anything broken, you can ask me directly and I'll give you my best advice.

To ask questions of me directly you'll have to go to my profile and hit the "ask me" button I think.

Good troubleshooting,
Carl

Dec 03, 2008 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...

2 Answers

North Star 5500/ lost one leg of the 220v


Small generators like this almost always have 2 stator windings 180 degrees out pf phase, that's how it makes the 220.
At the back (maybe side) of the outlet box should be a molex type plug that has the wires from the stator, get an ohm meter and measure them (with the generator shut off of course). You should find that you've got 4 wires in the plug, 1 wire for each end of 2 coils. From one end to the other of each coil you should measure less than an ohm, between the coils there is usually no connection, but some models have the neutral ends of each coil connected together inside the generator housing.

It sounds to me like you've got one of the power windings open...

Carl

Oct 13, 2008 | Northstar Generator 9 Hp, 5500 Watt,...

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