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This is a list of All the parts you need, I don't know about a schematic?
1 Maple Neck ? 1 11" wood rim ? 1 11" notched tension hoop ? 1 Flat head alloy tone ring (Optional bell brass available) ? 1 Resonator (not included in the open back kit) ? 1 11" Remo frosted banjo head ? 1 Arm Rest
? 2 Coordinator rods with hanger bolts (one longer than the other)
? 1 "L" shaped tailpiece bracket (may be attached to coordinator rods) ? 1 5th string nut
? 4 Guitar style tuners (planetary tuners optional) ? 1 Geared 5th string tuning machines
? 24 Shoe style lugs with bolts and washers ? 24 Hooks and nuts ? 1 Nut, pre notched ? 4 Resonator plates ? 4 Brass inserts (brass anchors that are threaded on the inside) ? 4 Resonator bolts (knurled on the outside with a Phillips screwdriver receiver on
? 1 5 string bridge
? 1 Gary Price style Tailpiece ? 1 Set of strings
? 22 Pre-cut (ready to install) frets
? 1 Truss rod cover (including three screws)
Scroll down to the "Get Manual" on the site and click on the link. The file is compressed. The first part is the schematic, the second the assembly and parts list. Likely the main low freq power amp has shorted transistors.
DO NOT try to use it until it is repaired or you may do further damage. Probably a capacitor shorted or a diode in the power supply. This is NOT DIY unless you are competent at electronic repair. When it is appeared to be restored, put a 150 watt lamp in series with the power cord to limit current till you know it is repaired... saves fuses and destroying further components if there are other parts that are bad.
If other lights are on, I have seen a case where the display does not light for a time, especially if it is cold. The gas in the display takes some time to light up like some neon bulbs... the effects should still work, you just can't see the display. Usually the display will eventually come on after a few minutes after being off for long periods. Sometimes one can encourage the display by external radiation such as a cell phone in close proximity.
See if the FX input indicator is functioning.
If the electronics of the DSP/FX is dead, troubleshooting it is not a DIY unless you have special test equipment. The unit uses two 57002 DSP's controlled by an 80C32 micorprocessor. Beyond checking that the 80C32 is operating and busses have activity, you probably won't be able to do any fruitfull troubleshooting
If NO lights come on in this unit, then the power supply has fried and you don't want that as it is likely caused by the rear power amp arcing out.. Lots of work to repair. Since rest is working this is not the case with yours. ALWAYS be careful to insure speaker leads are solid with this amp as an intermitent lead can blow this amp easily.
Behringer does not release their schematics to non-agents...
You found the problem.You will have to have the control replaced. If you feel comfortable doing it yourself, you will need an exact replacement part. If you don't have the schematic you can take the old one out and usually the value is stamped on the body or a code to help match it. You can also measure it across the outside lugs for resistance. You will need the same taper. This is explained at www.tubesandmore.com(Antique Electronics Supply) under Tech corner in Potentiometer Taper Charts. I'm glad you found the problem.
BIG problem! You should NOT have replaced the fuse as additional damage has been done. I repaired a PMP5000 and I can tell you likely what you will find: The smoke and smell came from two power resistors that are part of the soft start circuit that now are toast. You will likely find several components in the main portion of the power supply that are toast. These will include transistors, resistors, diodes, and probably the small 8 pin switching regulator chip. There is a small power supply that comes on first which enables a relay that shorts out those soft start resistors AFTER the power amplifier BALANCES and normalizes.
The unit I repaired had severe damage due to arc-over at one power amp section. Three power transistors were destroyed there and board traces and charring had to be handled in that section.
The repaired unit had to be brought up with a light bulb in series with the line power cord to prevent further damage until all bad parts were discovered and repaired. You will need to take the unit to a shop that is expperienced with the product. The repair cost MAY be pretty high.