Question about Whirlpool Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
Below is a link to common solutions that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
It provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again.
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Temperature Switch, make sure a positive heat selection has been made. Then check these:
Gas valve coils
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.
The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.
Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
First, as a retired Fire Captain I must recommend turning off all running appliance before leaving the house or going to bed. I can tell you some real horror stories. Now, there are several parts that can keep the heat off or flame off and they all need to be checked with an OHM meter. It could be the ignitor, ingitor sensor, or gas solenoids. Get a service tech out to check which you need or if you have an OHM meter I can give more info on what to check.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
hi..A poor connection between the wire terminals and the
heater relay causes high current draw and damages the
terminals on the heater relay on the main control board.
check it out..
kindly rate my response..
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
you will want to do two things
first check you vent exhaust even a small clogg here can be detrimental
then if thats clear
repalcce the coils on the top of the gas valve
they are probaly weakening
they are called the boost and assit
or hold and assit
they sit ontop of the gas valve
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
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