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I'm not sure what you mean by 'ignition timing number'. The timing of the ignition is controlled entirely by the PCM based on inputs from the camshaft position sensor (in the distributor) and several other sensors which provide information on engine load, throttle positions, manifold pressure, rpm, etc. There is nothing you can do mechanically to change this.
a lot of mechanical timing in this unit and alot of reasons for not working properly ---difficult to start diagnostics problems that can occur are ---- hydraulics-low pressure leak in line bent in line a sticking or damaged ram---one or more tube bearings damaged burnt or sticking --out of time--damaged or sticking cog/gear belts slipping [stretched] on tubes --missing or lower teeth jamming overstretched or damage springs -- hydraulic problem /switch problem with door release feeder for twine bent sticking or damaged you have to open up and look at the condition and settings of the 566 and nothing easy about working on them springs under a lot of pressure and all bolts are in tight spots ---best to get a manual on this unit just to have for when trouble arises in field the following link is john deere s parts catalog enter your 566 unit and it gives exploded view of the whole machine can compare to see if any part or spring popped off http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt
There are several springs in the system. The throttle cable, and the airhorn shaft should be spring loaded and the position sensor should be attached correctly. The position sensor has a notch which is where the butterfly throttle shaft is inserted.
You can detach the throttle cable and check for binding. You want smooth movement. Then see where the remaining parts are binding.
After checking this, and on certain engines, there are manifold runners which are moving parts and have actuators. In short, the intake manifold runners can soot up and jam. Find Web articles about this runner problem.
I suggest you google 05 ford focus throttle positioning sensor. This sensor keeps you air intake throttle at the proper position when the engine is cold and changes position when the engine has warmed up. to locate the sensor, remove the hose that comes from the air filter housing to the engine. the hose you removed was connected to the air throttle. you can manipulate the position of this throttle by having someone push the gas pedal down slowly while you watch the throttle move. notice that the gas pedal cable is connected to the mechanism that opens and closes the air throttloe. also notice that beside this mechanism, you have an electric throttle positioning sensor. Pay close attention to the existing throttle positioning sensor before you remove it if you are planning on replacing this sensor. because if you do not install the new sensor in the same degree that the old one was in, you will throw the calibration off. word of advice. buy some throttle cleaner from your local auto parts. turn the car on with the air filter to throttle body hose off and have someone push the gas pedal down slightly to keep the engine from turning off. spray the throttle body cleaner til all the black crud comes off the inside of the throttle body. this dirty crud is what was making your throttle stick and not working properly.
The battery is really only there for the electric start. Put a digital volt meter on it while running it under the load of the AC unit. Or if it goes off on the overload with the AC unit, try a variable load like an electric heater or two that you can switch on in steps. Most space heaters or hair dryers have a 1000w, 1250w 1500w so you can increase the load. Watch what the voltage does. If at 1500-2500 watt load the voltage starts to drop drastically, say from 125v down to 90 or 80v as the load increases, that usually indicates a problem with it not getting enough fuel. On these inverter generators, the carburetor is controlled by the inverter by the use of a throttle motor. As the inverter senses the demand for more power, it increases the throttle to deliver more horse power of the engine, thus meeting the demand for more electrical power out.
I have seen a couple things cause this. A partially plugged jet in the carburetor can cause it. A bad throttle motor (Part# 21) on the top of the carb can go bad. I even had one that I caused myself by not putting the little spring (part #20 on the exploded view of the carb) that sits under the throttle motor in correctly.
This may sound funny,but change the throttle position sensor,this does have to do with the gears changing,but do not purchase one no where but orielly`s,it is there cheaper one,master something,but it is not spring loaded.The higher brand name throttle position sensor is spring loaded and will not work properly,or any other parts store either,I know,I have been threw this already.
The tub springs are attached to the slot on the base of the washer just under the rear edge of the tub while the other ends are attached in a V-position to the slots on the flange at the bottom edge of the tub. Attach the springs upsidedown to avoid the possibility of rubbing each other and result in a noisy operation of the washer.
Pull adjusting lever cable upward, then release and ensure adjusting bolt rotates. If bolt does not rotate, check for improper installation of rear brakes.
Adjust strut to shortest possible length, then install drum.
Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.
Remove drum, then check for proper clearance, Fig. 4. Clearance should be .024 inch. If clearance is not as specified, check parking brake system.
Install brake drum, then bleed and refill brake system.
Install wheel and tire assembly, then lower vehicle.
FRONT ROTORS & PADS
Remove cap and snap ring, Fig. 10, then remove cone washers with tapered punch.
Insert suitable length bolts into flange bolt holes, then tighten bolts evenly and remove flanges.
Remove free wheel hub cover and snap ring, then remove nut, spring washer and cone washer with suitable tapered punch.
Remove free wheel hub body and gasket.
Remove locknut, lock washer and adjusting nut.
Remove axle hub and brake disc as an assembly.
Remove oil seal and inner bearing from hub.
Reverse procedure to install. Torque adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., then back off nut. Torque nut to 18 ft. lbs. Using spring scale attached to hub bolt, check that preload is 1.4-12.6. Install lockwasher and locknut, if equipped. Torque locknut to 35 ft. lbs., and recheck preload. Secure lockwasher by bending one tab inward and one tab outward.
Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove tire and wheel assembly.
Remove clip and hole pins, Fig. 9.
Remove anti-rattle spring and shim(s) if equipped, then remove brake pads.
Lubricate caliper housing with suitable brake grease at pad contact points.
hello, firstly i tell you that you did not presser to remove a paper from paper jam. if you broken any gear then you should sold it via faviquick and then you try to print. otherwise you should bring new roller and gears and fitt it with it's original where it alocated. i think this time you broken the paper out roller. when you print the paper did not out properly. so firstly you have to change the broken parts from your printer. go to shop and purchage the new parts and fix it. then you print. i hope it will solve your problem. rhanks ramesh