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Unit will not light. want electric print of the control circuit.

Modine gas unit heater. It every year somthing is up with this hung unit. It starts it cycle but the unit will not light. What I want is a print showing the control circuit so I can check it out.

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Do u require a manual? plse also provide the model number of ur device

Posted on Oct 23, 2008

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Where is the Manual Heater Reset Switch on an Amana A/C and Heater Unit Model number PTH093B35AJ? The unit has several stickers that state it has a "Manual Heater Reset Switch".


Almost certainly it is a bad relay on the circuit board. Sometimes you can slap the side of the unit by the control box to temporarily unstick the relay, after which the heat will come on for a cycle or two. There are two relays on the circuit board marked "heater 1" and "heater 2". You can order a new circuit board for about $100 or replace the relays at $4 apiece (order online from Digi-Key, requires solder connections). Part number JTN1a-PA-F-DC5V.

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I have a Vulcan Ultra 21E ceiling ducted unit The LED flashing fault is no 8 which is a gas interruption. The unit fan runs, ignition starts full flame and gas flows for about 2 secs then shuts down The...


Just been thru a similar problem with my Climate Technologies Vulcan High Efficiency Ducted Gas heater which in this case is installed under the house. This heater is about 7 years old and I have previously (2 years back) refurbished the controller by replacing the main power supply electrolytic filter capacitors.

I also had a communication problem with the Touch pad Thermostat which in the end required replacing the entire touch pad as one of it's voltage regulators had gone intermittent (Touch pads are available on E-Bay). To operate the heater while the touch pad was out of commission I installed a manual switch between the heat contacts on the heater controller. Closing the switch causes the heater to permanently run if it has no thermostat. Once communication with the touch panel was restored we were able to try and find the intermittent heater fault.

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Fault 1 was the flame sensor where the weld between the wire and flame probe rod had broken but it was still touching. This meant it was sensing Flame OK and then later would go open with expansion as the temperature rose. I fixed this by replacing the Flame Probe with a new one sourced from Reece HVAC.

At this point I celebrated thinking it was fixed!

Fault 2 after the flame sensor issue was cleared the fault still persisted but slightly less often.
The heater was cycling 3 times to get going and then locking out, requiring a reset from the touch thermostat or heater controller board. Sometimes the heater would achieve a onging burn for a long period, and other times just locking out after 3 tries.

Careful observation of the flame, through the observation holes after it lit, showed correct flame sensing but as soon as the nominal 65C duct temperature was reached the combustion fan (modulates) throttles back too far and the flame goes out, the flame sensor switches off and gas valve is then closed. The pressure differential across the burner manafold controls the Gas flow rate so if the combustion fan goes too slow the flame goes out due to lack of gas.

On the control board there is a potentiometer marked "MIN GAS RATE" this needs to be tweaked clockwise until the burner remains lit when the nominal 60-65C duct temperature is reached. Don't turn it up too far or the heater may not throttle back enough and end up going out on overheat.

Once a stable flame is achieved when throttled, try the heater in the economy mode which uses a lower recirculating fan speed and check the flame still remains lit. My problem was most obvious in the Econ mode.

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THE MONITOR OF INDOOR UNIT DISPLY ALL THE


This could be caused by a blown circuit breaker or fuse inside the unit, a damaged compressor or fan motor, faulty wires connecting the compressor or fans to the control board unit, a faulty or hung relay on the control board (this can sometimes be solved by tapping the relay with a screwdriver), or the starter capacitor for the compressor or fan motor.

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hi...
Every air conditioner has a motor called a compressor. The compressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner. If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective the compressor may try to start, fail, and create an electrical overload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressor circuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. The safety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for a certain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it will allow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If the compressor then starts, the unit should function normally. If the compressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overload will again cut the electricity to the compressor. This cycle will continue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes before restarting the compressor.) If this situation is occurring, unplug the air conditioner and get help from a qualified repair technician. This problem is often fatal to the air conditioner because the cost of repair often exceeds the price of a new air conditioner...

hope this will give u a clear idea..
thank u
rate me!!!!





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Reply back what type of heating unit you have (gas or electric), any other symptoms you've observed (including has the system ever operated before, and what changes may have been implemented to cause it not to operate) and the model, and we can be of more help to you.

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