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Almost certainly it is a bad relay on the circuit board. Sometimes you can slap the side of the unit by the control box to temporarily unstick the relay, after which the heat will come on for a cycle or two. There are two relays on the circuit board marked "heater 1" and "heater 2". You can order a new circuit board for about $100 or replace the relays at $4 apiece (order online from Digi-Key, requires solder connections). Part number JTN1a-PA-F-DC5V.
Just been thru a similar problem with my Climate Technologies Vulcan High Efficiency Ducted Gas heater which in this case is installed under the house. This heater is about 7 years old and I have previously (2 years back) refurbished the controller by replacing the main power supply electrolytic filter capacitors.
I also had a communication problem with the Touch pad Thermostat which in the end required replacing the entire touch pad as one of it's voltage regulators had gone intermittent (Touch pads are available on E-Bay). To operate the heater while the touch pad was out of commission I installed a manual switch between the heat contacts on the heater controller. Closing the switch causes the heater to permanently run if it has no thermostat. Once communication with the touch panel was restored we were able to try and find the intermittent heater fault.
Again I have been getting Fault Code 08 "Gas Interruption" however the heater was lighting OK and then going out after about a minute or so. In the end I found 2 distinct heater faults.
Fault 1 was the flame sensor where the weld between the wire and flame probe rod had broken but it was still touching. This meant it was sensing Flame OK and then later would go open with expansion as the temperature rose. I fixed this by replacing the Flame Probe with a new one sourced from Reece HVAC.
At this point I celebrated thinking it was fixed!
Fault 2 after the flame sensor issue was cleared the fault still persisted but slightly less often.
The heater was cycling 3 times to get going and then locking out, requiring a reset from the touch thermostat or heater controller board. Sometimes the heater would achieve a onging burn for a long period, and other times just locking out after 3 tries.
Careful observation of the flame, through the observation holes after it lit, showed correct flame sensing but as soon as the nominal 65C duct temperature was reached the combustion fan (modulates) throttles back too far and the flame goes out, the flame sensor switches off and gas valve is then closed. The pressure differential across the burner manafold controls the Gas flow rate so if the combustion fan goes too slow the flame goes out due to lack of gas.
On the control board there is a potentiometer marked "MIN GAS RATE" this needs to be tweaked clockwise until the burner remains lit when the nominal 60-65C duct temperature is reached. Don't turn it up too far or the heater may not throttle back enough and end up going out on overheat.
Once a stable flame is achieved when throttled, try the heater in the economy mode which uses a lower recirculating fan speed and check the flame still remains lit. My problem was most obvious in the Econ mode.
Hope this helps someone else - It took me over a year to solve this one. NeilP
You have a short circuit, which is obviously dangerous. Your blower motor is controlled via a 24VAC control circuit, but is 120VAC. The circuit board and gas valve are probably history, but it needs to be troubleshot to determine the scope of the damage.If you remove T stat you will see several colored wires. The red and green wire when touched together should cause your fan blower to run. If that works when you bypass t stat the t stat is gone. The red to white will open your gas valve on your heater. The red to the yellow or blue will start your AC compressor or condenser fan motor. Be careful with the yellow and blue wires as one is actually a neutral and one goes to the AC contractor on your condenser unit contractor. Hope this helps!
This could be caused by a blown circuit breaker or fuse inside the unit, a damaged compressor or fan motor, faulty wires connecting the compressor or fans to the control board unit, a faulty or hung relay on the control board (this can sometimes be solved by tapping the relay with a screwdriver), or the starter capacitor for the compressor or fan motor.
hi... Every air conditioner has a motor called a compressor. The compressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner. If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective the compressor may try to start, fail, and create an electrical overload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressor circuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. The safety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for a certain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it will allow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If the compressor then starts, the unit should function normally. If the compressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overload will again cut the electricity to the compressor. This cycle will continue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes before restarting the compressor.) If this situation is occurring, unplug the air conditioner and get help from a qualified repair technician. This problem is often fatal to the air conditioner because the cost of repair often exceeds the price of a new air conditioner...
hope this will give u a clear idea.. thank u rate me!!!!
I recommend that you begin by calling your supplier of natural gas. They offer a free service whereby they will come to your home and check out your heater. They will also show you exactly how it operates. good luck.
You need to either call an electrician if your unable to, or do not have the knowledge to troubleshoot electrical circuits, or, get a multimeter and see that power is coming to the furnace/heater.
Reply back what type of heating unit you have (gas or electric), any other symptoms you've observed (including has the system ever operated before, and what changes may have been implemented to cause it not to operate) and the model, and we can be of more help to you.
You have some limit switches located around the unit one high one or two around the middle one of them is opening and not closing. You need to take off the cover and locate the limits undo the wires and ohm them out you should have complete circuit now the one that is open when you find it is bad and needs to be replaced with the same rated heat temperature as original. Your t-stat goes through these limits and one open would kill the whole circuit. Let me know how it goes. ken