Question about GE Profile Prodigy WPSE4200A
The washing has been making this very loud noise. Well me and hubby took off the front panel to see what is going on and we noticed that the plastic tub looked broken that was the noise. So we called out the repair to see if it could be fixed or not. Well he told us we need to replace the washers in it. He wants to charge us 200 + to fix a 9 dollar part. Oh and it is going to ten days before he can come out and fix it. Is there any way that we can do this to save money or should we leave this to the professionals.
Let me know!!!
SOURCE: Loose tub on GE WJSR2080V
Reach (or look) over the tub, just under the metal top, at the four corners of the machine to see if the rubber tab dampening straps are OK. (not broken) If broken, use putty knife to push in 2 spring clips at very top of front panel (a couple inches in from the L and R side) and pull to take front panel off. Remove two 1/4 hex head screws holding top to side panels. Remove top. (looks like your model has a lid switch which can be unplugged by the back splash.)
Also check that the inner tub does not rock independently of the outer tub. If it does, pull agitator and tighten large left hand threaded nut.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
I would be happy to help you through this. The first thing to do is get the machine up off the floor onto a base that allows you to slide under machine on your back with a flash light. Make sure whatever you decide to lift machine up onto is very stable and durable. Bricks, blocks, or a utility cart maybe. You need to look under machine to see where the leak is coming from. You want to make sure it is not going to fall on you. The machine is not that heavy, just awkward to lift or move because of it's size. So, you could slide something under each corner, one at a time, or ask a friend to help lift it onto a base. Now you are ready to go. Don't worry, this is really easy.
Get a towel, flashlight, and start machine on a small load with shortest cycle set.(probably delicate). After you start machine, slide under and and try to find where water is leaking from. The pump is going to be a plastic circular shape thing with ridges on outside. Probably dead front center and attached to motor. If water is leaking anywhere from plastic circle thing, then this is your problem. BUT, also follow all the black hoses that are under machine. Sometimes leak can be a cracked hose or loose attachment. That is real cheap and easy. The hoses are attached with metal ring deals. You take a pair of channel locks or big pliers and squeeze them to open. There are 2 or 3 hoses that attach to pump that will need to be removed if this is where leak is coming from. Then, the pump is only attached with meatal clips that you pull out to release pump from motor. No tools needed. Take the pump to sears or local appliance shop and I guarantee they will have replacement. I just paid $59.99 for mine. It took me less than 30 minutes total to replace. Feel free to ask more questions. I love this kinda stuff. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Tim....Denver, CO email@example.com
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
The usual culprit for a washer that will not stop filling is the pressure switch. The switch is located inside the operator console behind the load size, or water level knob (this knob has different names based on the washer model). Before assuming the pressure is defective, however, inspect the pressure switch and ensure the small plastic air hose is still attached to it. It is common for this small air hose to come loose or develop small cracks or breaks. Without the hose installed, the switch cannot detect the appropriate pressure in the wash tub and will not shut off. The result: as washer that continually fills and will overflow. What appears to be a significant problem may only be a loose hose and few minutes of your time. Please inspect the switch, check the entire length of the hose for cracks and make sure the electrical connection(s) are intact and not corroded, then get back to me. I hope this helps you.
PS Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before servicing!
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
Can't do anything about the one that's smoking. As with most electrical stuff, once you let the smoke out it no longer works.
Mine had the same original problem. Would fill, but would not agitate. It just sat there with a tub full of water and clothes.
I scoured the internet, and came to the conclusion that it was either:
The timer (unlikely, according to most posts I read), or
The motor. The motor in these is a reversing motor - one direction for spin, the other for agitate.
If half the motor quits working, you'd get spin but no agitate or vice-versa.
I took the motor out to take it and have it bench-tested to be sure before I spend the money on a non-returnable new motor. Unfortunately, no one here can (or will) bench-test the motor.
In the meantime, my wife called the retailer where we bought the machine and asked if they could test the motor. They said there was no need - that the control board in the machine probably just needed to be reset.
So far, I have taken off the front panel, taken off the control panel, removed the top of the machine, removed the ring on the top of the tub. Removed the agitator. Removed the four bungee-cord things that keep the machine from rolling over or something. Removed the bell thingy under the agitator. Removed the big nut under that to be able to remove the tub. Removed a plate on the top of the machine so that there is room to remove the tub. Removed the tub. Removed the big tub by lifting it to disconnect the shock absorbers, and disconnecting the drain hose and the air tube that controls the fill level. Tilted out and removed the big tub with the motor frame attached to the bottom. Removed the pulley, belt and motor frame. And removed the motor from the frame. All just to get the motor out to take it to the shop. Who would not test it.
But I digress.
The procedure to reset the control board is this:
1) Unplug the washer.
2) Wait 30 seconds or more. (This allows all capacitors to discharge and make the "computer" forget everything.)
3) Plug the machine in.
4) Open and close the lid 10 times. (The magnets in the lid are the only method you have to "talk" to the "computer.")
5) Run the machine.
It sounded stupid. It sounded like a Monty Python skit, but I did this. I reassembled the machine, and did the reset procedure. The machine worked just fine. Filled, agitated, drained, rinsed, did the spin cycle. Just like a wash machine should.
Makes me wonder about $300 repair bills.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
ok on the GE spacemaker ,it's in the back.
there are two screws that you should open and then the front just comes off.
i tried the knife option at first and just ended braking the plastic clip.
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
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