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With the exhaust manifold off. If there is some of the bolt sticking out. You'll need a torch to heat the head up, red hot around the bolt. Also a pair of needle nose vise grips to grab it with and turn it out. You'll have to heat it several times to get out. No bolt showing, you best bet it to pull the head. Drill the bolt and extract it.
Hi David, you should be able to extract the broken stud piece with the head on the engine. you will need a screw extraction kit snap on makes the best one but any place that sells tools, ie sears or harbor freight ect. will have some type of kit. it requires also a drill bit, and be aware that the straighter and dead center the hole will maxamise your final result. also the drill bit must be new or extremely sharp to keep the bit from walking also use a center punch to dead center the stud giving the the drill a primo place to start drilling. Now if you fail with this method dont feel bad it happens alot even to the most experienced tech. There is a second option buy a 5/16-18 helicoil kit and follow the instructions its fairly easy again drilling the hole accurately will give you the best results. good luck
there is a head gasket problem probably from the head bolts not holding the head down tight. When working on a head always make sure that tye head stud holes ore clean by using a thread tap and blowing the holes out with compressed air. Oil, water and gunk will stop the head stud from screwing all the way in yet you will still achieve the tension setting because the stud has bottomed out--hence the head gasket is not under correct pressure and the head studs are not under the correct tension.
No there is not and I suspect that the fault is in the assembly of the job.. IT is vital when doing a head job 1 that new studs are used every time and 2 that the stud hole threads are cleaned out with a thread tap and the rubbish at the bottom of the holes is blown out with compressed air . The stud threads should be run with a dye nut to clean out all the old rust and gunk on the thread . Next use something like never-seize on the stud threads to lower the friction on the threads while tensioning down and use the correct rotation sequence as you tighten down the studs ( generally start at the centre stud and work in a clockwise rotation doing each stud in the spiral. The head tension will be around 80 ft/ lbs so tighten in steps of 10ft /lbs until you get to the maximum. At this point many Asian cars require the final setting to be done in degrees of rotation and not ft/lbs to ensure that the correct stretch is applied to each stud Get yourself a workshop manual and follow the directions
1 You can re-tap the hole one size larger and use a larger diameter bolt or stud. If you use this solution the component being bolted down will have to have a clearance hole drilled in it to take the larger diameter bolt or stud
2 If you're dealing with stripped stud hole you can re- tap the hole one size larger and use a" stepped " stud . One end is the larger thread the rest of the stud is the original diameter and thread.
3 The best solution, particularly if your dealing with a thread in an aluminium casting, is to fit a thread insert. These are sold under a range of names e.g Helicoil, Recoil, and come as a kit made up of a tap, a quantity of thread inserts and an insertion tool. Each kit only covers one thread size.
You can replace it. There are several types of screw extractors out there. They usually come with a drill bit for the correct size extractor. You will need to find out what size stud it is. Once you have determined that chose the appropriate size drill bit and extractor. Lowes or home depot carry them. Drill into the center of the broken stud. Be careful not to drill too deep as you might damage the thermostat housing. Once you have drill into the stud use the extractor to remove the broken stud.
Napa auto parts or autozone should carry the stud size and length that you need. Purchase a stud and 2 plain nuts that match the thread of the stud. The nuts will be used to install the stud. Thread The stud into the thermostat housing. Once it is tight by hand stop. Thread the first plain nut onto the stud far enough so that you can get the second nut onto the stud and have a thread or two sticking out of the second nut. Once the two nuts are on the stud hold the first nut with a wrench and tighten the second nut tight against it. This will allow you to finish installing the stud. Once the nuts are tightened together, use a wrench (on the second nut only) to run the stud down into the thermostat housing. Do not overtighten the stud as you may crack the housing. Run the stud down into the housing unit the stud is the same height as the existing stud. Then use a wrench to hold the second nut and loosen the fist nut away from the second nut. Remove both nuts from the stud. You stud is now installed and you can reinstall the thermostat.
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Torque is not impacted by length of stud. Torgue is just that, the force on the material. Now if there are retainers or keepers, or something llike that used on the stud then being too tall may have an impact. Be absolutely sure to use a thread locker on these parts, something like Loctite, etc.
Hope this helps.
Below the tripod head you will see what looks like a "sandwich" of two chromed pieces of metal. The lower one is the top of the tripod's center column. The upper one is the bottom of the tripod head. Using wrenches or other tools, unscrew the upper one counterclockwise to separate it from the lower one. There is a 1/4" threaded stud which holds them together.
If you plan on replacing the head with a pro head like a Manfrotto, you will need a reducing bushing. Most heads expect a 3/8" stud, and this tripod's thread is a standard 1/4" stud. The adapters are available through Wolf, Adorama, B&H, and the like.