Question about LG WM2101HW 4.0 cu.ft. Washer

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LG washer tub won't turn

Washer comes on, fills with water, then it won't turn tub... A loud noise is heard, and the tub looks like it wants (rocks a little) to turn, but it won't. There are no error codes being thrown either. I was able to drain the water by starting, and restarting until all the water was out of it. The tub spins freely by my hand with no noise or resistance. I'm at a loss... What do you think?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: LE ERROR CODE ON LG WM-2277HW

It worked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!This is the second time it happened to me and I had a repair man come out the first time. You need to have a shop vac with you so you can just pull the plug.

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

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DRACO A5OG
  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: LG WD-3243RHD Front Load Makes grinding, crackling noise

Fixed!

"LE" code Stator/Motor Error.

It was a simple fix and only cost $17.68 at PartStore.com no affiliation.

Hall Sensor 6501KW2001A

http://www.partstore.com/Part/LG+Electronics+Incorporated/LG+Electronics%2fZenith/6501KW2001A/New.aspx

Here is the Service Manual

http://oasisappliance.com/products/lg/LGComboServiceManual.pdf

Bonus, it actually completes a wash cycle and does not stick at 6 minutes, drying forever.

Freakin service tech stated it was the Power Control Board, IDIOT!

While I was in there, I cleaned out the heater blower assembly and sensors. They were full of caked on lint and the sensors had debris all over them.

Also cleaned out all the lint and debris around the rubber seal, this will eliminate those annoying mildew oders.

Hope this helps someone, Happy New Year!

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: LG WM0642HW washer gives error during spin cycle and stops.

I have this problem and you can find the solution on this same web page by searching. It is likely the Hall Sensor that needs to be replaced (see proflevy posting on Jul 16, 2008). According to the postings, it is from soap build up on the sensor and replacing it costs $18 for the part and is easy (many responses on this). I am waiting for the part and will try to fix mine soon.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: "FE" error code; won't stop filling

Hello Sheri Tucker,

The "FE" code is referring to a bad or malfunctioning water valve. The machine continues to fill because the solenoid on the valve inside the machine isn't closing to stop the water. The valve should be inspected and/or replaced if bad. This will require some dis-assembly, if washing machine repair isn't something your comfortable with then a service call is the best bet. If you are going to try and inspect yourself please make sure you unplug the machine before starting any dis-assembly. Hope this helps.

Thanks,
edgin96

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Error code LE on LG Wm1815cs

Error OE appears after about 10 minutes into a cycle. "OE" in the manual says filter clogged....we have checked & cleaned all of the lines/filter. Now we hear a light humming instead and the washer isn't doing anything...

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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1 Answer

Whirlpool wtw5100sq0 clunks when put on spin cycle


Does the washer currently work fine aside from the loud clunking noise? Does the clunking noise continue or is it just one loud clunk when it starts to spin? If its just one loud clunk then that is not a problem just ignore it as that is the clutch spring releasing, it probably starting making noise from the grease getting washed off when the washer over filled.
However how did the washer overfill? That issue should be addressed too. Sometimes though, if the tub is not centered from a heavy load the water will spill over the back but its not really an overfill.

Mar 25, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Wtw5640xwi


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Tub Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced.

Clutch If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Drive Belt If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

Water Inlet Valve If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault. Replace it.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem and the parts are relatively easy to replace.
Rear Drum with Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.

Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.
Drive Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.

Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the pump may be worn out, or something might be caught in it. Remove the pump and inspect it for debris. If it is clear and the blades spin freely the problem might be somewhere else.
U-Joint Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.

Motor Coupling If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission

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Oct 16, 2012 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

Entering test mode


1) try to go the instr. manual and go to the section troubleshooting they explain this . However if you do not have it download from .
www.manualslib.com
see this causes and fix it.God bless you
Tub Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced.
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem and the parts are relatively easy to replace.

Rear Drum with Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.

Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.

Drive Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.

Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the pump may be worn out, or something might be caught in it. Remove the pump and inspect it for debris. If it is clear and the blades spin freely the problem might be somewhere else.
U-Joint Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new
Motor Coupling If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.

Clutch Assembly If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Drive Belt If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.
Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the
Drain Pump If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

Water Inlet Valve If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault. Replace it.
transmission it may have to be replaced.



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Sep 30, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The machine doesn't spin properly and doesn't drain the water


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.
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Sep 28, 2012 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 plus series washer won't spin, barely agitates, will drain - but makes loud noise


It sounds like the transmission is done. Can't pinpoint what it is exactly, but I would start there.

Aug 21, 2012 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Grinding or croaking noise in washer


What you want to do is first unplug the machine. With that done have someone tilt the machine backwards while you lay in front of it to look. You'll notice a white foam like bottom, which you want to pull out. Watch as you doing so because the next step. There is a nut that screws onto the bolt that the pulley slides on to. Its a manufacturer defect, and when I was doing first year warranty for whirlpool I'd get about three a week. My solution to it. Get the belt around the pulley, push the pullley all the way up to where its supposed to sit, get some lock-tight and place on the bolt, not too much, and put your nut back on and ratchet it tightly. I've had no recalls using this method.

May 28, 2012 | Maytag Bravos Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer hums but will not fill or start/ spin has water pressure and tub seems to move freely the model #on tag LTF2140ES0


If it doesn't fill it won't start any other cycle unless you move it ahead yourself. If it hums I am thinking it is trying to fill. Sounds like the valve is turning on to let water in but it is not getting through. My washer has a screen where the hoses go on and sometimes the screen becomes plugging with scale. If that is ok then the solenoid must be coming on but the valve is stuck. Does neither hot or cold settings work? Please rate my answer so I am rewarded points for it.

Jan 27, 2012 | Frigidaire Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water flows constantly during the spin cycle


Servicing Water Inlet ValvesIf the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced.

Dec 08, 2011 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

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