Question about Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: F1 and F83 codes
Marsha, F1 is the code for a primary control failure. Since you just replaced main board check to see that all the harnesses are seated correctly. On this model I've found that if you have a pinched or blocked pressure tube,(hose going to the control board) it will give the same error code as a failed control board. Make sure it's not being pinched when replacing the consol. The F83 is the code for door unlock failure. You need to get past the main control board failure first...Catriver..post back.
Posted on Apr 20, 2007
SOURCE: kenmore elite oasis washer
Today (4/3/09) I got a letter from Sears. They will replace the electronic control board (you know, the F-51 business) for FREE, in warranty or not. Serial #s for the Bad Board begin: CS48 - CS52 or CT01-CT49. Call Sears at 800-847-9083. The voices of all of us have finally been heard! There is a class action attorney firm in San Francisco looking into a legal remedy.
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
SOURCE: F1 error code
This was copied from a website called WORLD OF WASHERS....I just copied the whole paragraph......sounds like some $$$
Let me know if this helps.......mtg
I am new to this online blog stuff, so I figured an email would be best. I own a Kenmore Elite Oasis washer Model #110.27042602. Everytime we try to use the washer we get error code F1 flashing. This happens withins seconds of the machine first starting to fill and about ten times thereafter until enough water gets into the tub for balance, I assume. We have started pouring about 2 gallons of water onto the clothes in the tub by hand before starting the machine which usually works. About half the time the machine stops again between wash and rinse cycle as it starts to fill with water again.
In my online research, I guess its good we don't have error code F51, but this is a pain and 1 year warranty has passed. It appears I may need to get a new Machine Motor Control Assembly. Any thoughts????
I'm probably not going to tell you anything you don't already know. You know you may have to replace the motor control assembly, so you have done your due diligence.
I found a thread related to your problem at the "Samurai Appliance Repair Forums" at ApplianceGuru.com. That link will take you to the discussion, in case you haven't already read it. The poster described a situation identical to yours, and I have also read of this problem at other sites on the web.
Contained within that thread is a link to a Service Matters (Whirlpool Corp.) tech sheet related to the F1 error code. This is the document any qualified servicer will refer to when addressing your problem. Here is a link to that sheet in case you want to have it on hand in the event of a service call.
The tech sheet calls to replace the control, but only after three other tests have been conducted. Everything I have read indicates the control will be replaced the vast majority of the time. I am not a technician, but I would say there really is no way around that.
Please keep in mind that this sheet applies to specific models and serial numbers within the Whirlpool line. There may be a separate sheet for your washer, but I imagine the end result is the same.
The million dollar question is how much will such a repair cost. I am seeing prices ranging from $150 to $200 just for the part. With labor, you will probably have at least $300 invested in this repair. I would encourage you to contact Whirlpool at 866-769-7260. I have read instances of other owners receiving satisfactory service in out-of-warranty situations via this number. Whirlpool knows these washers are ****, so they no doubt have a scripted procedure in place to deal with these situations. Be firm, but also be polite. Maybe drop the word "recall" and see what happens.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
It's a bad wax motor inside the door latch. The diagnostics are buggy and do not test it properly. It should measure about 1.5K ohms, and when 120 VAC is applied to it, it should extend in about a minute. Part number 12002535 is $10 to $15.
Posted on May 14, 2009
To access the front panel, or to take it off persey, you would have to remove the top of the unit, this isnt hard as it is fasted by a few screws in the back and you slide the panel back and then you will have access to the front panel mounting screws and remove those to remove the front panel.
Posted on Feb 24, 2010
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