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Eastman speedflex water valve repair

The valve will not close enough to stop water flow. Does this valve have a rubber washer at the end of the stem. The valve I took apart has a metal washer, but nothing else.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag washer PAV2300 water over flow

tidalwave If the water continues to flow even when the washer timer and the power to the washer are off then you are right and the water inlet valve has to be replaced. If it does it only when the washer is on then it could be different problems. In that case the first thing you have to check is the water level switch. This is the device which controls the water level. Remove the power first.Open the control panel and you will see the switch on the left side. There is the clear plastic hose connected to the switch. Make sure the hose is not loose. This is one of the most common cause of overflow. If it got loose, drain out all water from the washer before you reconnect the hose. If this is not the issue then you have to check the continuity across the water level switch therminals. When there is no water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 12 (gray and orange wires). Whet the tub has filled up with water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 14 (gray and light blue wires). If the continuity is wrong replace the water level switch. If you are going to do it, make sure there is no water in the tub before you will remove the clear plastic hose from the old switch. Good luck. Gendos. post back...

Posted on Jul 08, 2007

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  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag washer PAV2300 water over flow

My Oasis was overflowing, ONLY on cycles which add a lot of water, like sheets, bulky. The repair tech from Sears basically said I was wrong because it couldn't overflow because the machine fills by time. Ha! He ran the express cycle and it didn't overflow. He left, I turned it on and it overflowed. Well, I called and he said that the main computer board must be out, just a little over $200! Came here (where I should have come first) and opened the machine. I found a small rub hole in the tube, taped it shut, and voila! Machine works. Will order a new hose

Posted on Oct 20, 2007

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore HE 110.4751 front load

soild metal part fits in groove around door boot spring goes in at bottom they can be tough to get back on after inserting in groove around seal you'll have to stretch the spring and pop it under at the same time band will try to come back out and roll seal back off lip..good luck

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: low flow hot water in Delta Shower

If your water heater is old or has been recently replaced, it will slough off debris that will get caught in the hot water supply side of the faucet. You have to disassimble the faucet and use a dental pic to remove the debris from it. This is a real common occurance. You can also try to flush out that side by removing the parts and then slowly turning on the water without the parts inside. Be careful not to flood your bathroom when you do this. But usually you have to dig it out. I have spent as high as 3 hours digging the liner from the dip tube of a water heater out of a faucet.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: Tiny piece of rubber seal is torn off- water leaks from front end

You can't really repair the seal, but you can replace it with a new one for under $130 if you do the repair yourself. You can order it online or from a local appliance shop, as prices vary slightly from place to place.

The tub gasket (door seal) is part number #WH08X10022 with a new substitution part #WH08X10036. However, since each model can be slightly different, depending on the serial number which denotes when it was manufactured, you might want to confirm that the above gasket is the correct one for your particular washer.

I'd suggest you call the folks at Sears Parts Direct at 1-800-252-1698 and give them your complete model number AND serial number before you start in on the repair, so you can be sure you have the correct substitution bellows gasket.

It's a relatively easy repair, all you need to do is remove the spring retaining wire around the outer edge of the bellows gasket, just peel it back at the edge to see it. Now locate the locking loop by going around the rim. Once you find the locking loop, you can remove it using a couple pairs of small needle nose pliers as they make it easier to get off.

Once you've done that, you'll see the locking plate that holds the back side of the bellows gasket onto the outer washer tub. Remove those fasteners and you can get the bellows off and start in on putting the new bellows onto the washer, just reversing the order you used in the removal process.

Here's a line drawing that shows the exploded view of the tub section, with the gasket (item #306). Just take your time removing the old gasket so you remember what you're doing and when installing the new gasket so as not to rip or tear it in the process. I'd also suggest you let the gasket relax for a good 4-5 hours (to get the kinks and folds out of it from the packing box) before you do the installation.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=WCVH6260F0WW&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=0432&modelName=WASHER&diagramPageId=00004&componentDescription=TUB%20&%20MOTOR&documentId=G6090505&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list

Here's another link to one of my other solutions for installing a bellows gasket on a GE front loading washer that you can also review for more installation tips, etc.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2730376-need_help_in_installing_door_bellow_ge

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

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9C-23H/C American Standard: Does the seat for the stem take an o-ring? I replaced the seats but the drip got worse.


There are three things to replacing a washer seat, after you turn the water off, open the valve before you replace it, most people take the stem nut out first, then putting it back over compresses it unless the valve is open.
Check the seat, this is not the rubber washer at the end of the stem. The seat is in the fixture, most can be removed with a special wrench.
Last but not least is the over tightening the valve to stop the water. Water wont stop instantly and it important to remember that. Turn the water of lightly when you are done, wait a moment to see what happens when the residual water drains. Then tighten more if necessary.

Feb 22, 2016 | American Standard Plumbing

Tip

How to repair a washer-type faucet


REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-TYPE FAUCET

  • Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.

  • To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.

  • Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.

  • Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.

  • Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.

  • The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.

  • Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.

  • It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.

  • Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.

  • If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

How do i fix e5 on the dishwasher


Three common causes.
  1. Defective solenoid water inlet valve
  2. Plugged water inlet filter
  3. Defective stop valve located where the inlet hose connects to the water line.
Problem 1 usually no water will enter. It usually works or not.
Problem 2 and 3 the situation is the tub begins not to fill and over time the filter closes completely or the stop valve plugs completely.

If you open the door after the fill cycle and you have not heard the unit fill it is most likely the fill solenoid. Partially filled need to look at the stop valve. The rubber washer of the valve deteriorates and loosens relocating over the hole plugging the water from going through. When you try to shut off the valve it in most cases will not close water tight. You can replace the stem and washer if you can find the same hardware type.

The solenoid replacement can usually be axcessed from the front but requires a skilled technican.


26051739-3tozjaopshvuyndb2zxhmboi-4-0.jpg Solenoid valve below

26051739-3tozjaopshvuyndb2zxhmboi-4-2.jpg Hope this helps?

Jan 13, 2016 | Dishwashers

2 Answers

Why doesn't it fill?


Check you water intake hose and filtre

Dec 01, 2015 | Dishwashers

2 Answers

All the faucets except my shower have hot water why doesn't my shower have hot water


your video doesn't show much of your shower for very long, but at a guess i'd say you have separate hot cold taps, in which case always turn on hot first then carefully turn on cold to ensure there's no issue with water pressure. if there no hot water running at all the hot water valve is faulty

Feb 07, 2013 | Home

1 Answer

Bosch Aquatak Clic 125 running problems - keeps pulsing and unable to reach continuous full pressure - has been working well up to now - water pressure OK


After the machine has stared the wash cycle stop the machine. Check the water level in the sump. It it is below the required fill, the pump will drain the sump, suck air resulting in pulsing.

Add a modest amount of water about a quart or so and try continuing the wash. see if it reduces the pulsing. Continue to add to determine if it is the water level.

If you confirm that the water level is low, depending on the model it usually fills on a timer. If it had been working properly then either the stop valve under the sink has allowed the internal rubber washer to dislodge into the flow path, or the inline filter at the connection to the dishwasher is clogged or the electric solenoid at the washer is failing and not allowing the water to enter at the prescribed amount.

Hope this helps?
Below the stop valve do to the hot water is known to have the rubber seal fail which can plug the hose limiting the water flow. The valve can be repaired without removing it. The stem with the house water off can be removed and a new rubber seal installed. remember to remove the debris from the failed seal.
12215403-owoa52fq3dbvw0lom3ojbzgr-3-0.jpg The screen can clog in the image below restricting the water flow. Disassemble and clean.

12215403-owoa52fq3dbvw0lom3ojbzgr-3-2.jpg

Mar 29, 2012 | Dishwashers

2 Answers

Tried to tighten hot water tap to stop a drip and


There is normally a plastic washer at the end of the valve stem which you turn to allow the water to flow and to stop the flow. It sounds like this washer has either deteriorated or been damaged by over-tightening. You will need to remove the stem and replace this washer. It is normally held in place with a screw.

You will need to remove the on-off handle and probably a stem cover to access the flats on the stem where you can place a wrench. These flats will likely be recessed into the shower wall; therefore, it will likely require a deep socket to reach them. Most hardware stores will have the sockets needed to remove and replace these stems.

Of course, make sure that the main house shutoff valve is closed before you start to do this.

Apr 20, 2010 | Home

1 Answer

Clarification to elextek: The right side


If the valve itself is leaking, it needs repaired/replaced. There should be a plastic stem in it, with a rubber seal washer, and a coil spring to close the valve stem when removed from the cleaner. If these parts are not there, or stuck, it will leak.

Oct 12, 2009 | Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub...

1 Answer

My bathroom faucet wont turn off. I can turn the handle but the water still comes out. the faucet has 2 handles


Hi, W/D here.
You'll need to shut the water off under the sink. Usually when the water won't shut off, the washer (or cartridge) is damaged or loose. With the water shut off, open the valve. Remove the handle and trim piece that surrounds the stem. With a wrench or socket, remove the valve cartridge from the body. The part that you need to unscrew isn't the first nut that you see when you look down the shaft, but rather, the ut just past that. The first nut is the packing gland adjustment, the second holds the two halves of the valve together. Usually, it isn't hard to get these apart. Pull the part out of the valve body and check the washer at the base of the stem. It is probably loose. Tighten it back down, or if it is damaged, replace it. While the valve is apart, stick your little finger in the valve hole and feel the valve seat. It should feel smooth and free of nicks and grooves. Should you need any parts, you can take your old parts with you when you go to the hardware store, and match them up. If the seat is damaged, you may need a 'seat removal tool' also available at the hardware store. A washer is the easiest repair. If the damage is much worse that thet, consider a repair kit. I will have the upper valve assembly that you pulled out, washer and replacement seat, along with the gaskets.
Reinstall your valve, making sure that the stem is backed out as if full open. If you put the valve assembly together with the valve stem 'closed', you can damage the washer. Once all back together, adjust your packing gland. It should be adjusted to be just tight enough to keep water from flowing out alongside the valve stem without being difficult to operate. Reassemble the trim, replace the handle. Close the faucet valve and open the water supply valve. That should do it.
Best regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution -- thanx!

Aug 04, 2009 | Price Pfister Pfister Marielle Oil Bronze...

2 Answers

How do I, myself, fix a faucet leak?


Faucets in general operate either with a one handle valve stem or valve stems that uses small pieces of rubber to precent the water flow. In a single handle model this is usually caused by mineral deposits building up and the valve not being able to fully restrict the flow of water. The fix here is usually a new stem. On models that use a two handle system and do have replaceable valve stems one must get a repacement seat from a hadware store and reinstall the stem. In extreme cases the valve body may need to be ground internally and will require a professional. If you do not a have replaceable stems than the only alternative is a new faucet. I hope this assists you and thanks for using Fix Ya.

Oct 29, 2008 | Plumbing

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