Question about Washing Machines
The valve will not close enough to stop water flow. Does this valve have a rubber washer at the end of the stem. The valve I took apart has a metal washer, but nothing else.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
tidalwave If the water continues to flow even when the washer timer and the power to the washer are off then you are right and the water inlet valve has to be replaced. If it does it only when the washer is on then it could be different problems. In that case the first thing you have to check is the water level switch. This is the device which controls the water level. Remove the power first.Open the control panel and you will see the switch on the left side. There is the clear plastic hose connected to the switch. Make sure the hose is not loose. This is one of the most common cause of overflow. If it got loose, drain out all water from the washer before you reconnect the hose. If this is not the issue then you have to check the continuity across the water level switch therminals. When there is no water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 12 (gray and orange wires). Whet the tub has filled up with water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 14 (gray and light blue wires). If the continuity is wrong replace the water level switch. If you are going to do it, make sure there is no water in the tub before you will remove the clear plastic hose from the old switch. Good luck. Gendos. post back...
Posted on Jul 08, 2007
My Oasis was overflowing, ONLY on cycles which add a lot of water, like sheets, bulky. The repair tech from Sears basically said I was wrong because it couldn't overflow because the machine fills by time. Ha! He ran the express cycle and it didn't overflow. He left, I turned it on and it overflowed. Well, I called and he said that the main computer board must be out, just a little over $200! Came here (where I should have come first) and opened the machine. I found a small rub hole in the tube, taped it shut, and voila! Machine works. Will order a new hose
Posted on Oct 20, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore HE 110.4751 front load
soild metal part fits in groove around door boot spring goes in at bottom they can be tough to get back on after inserting in groove around seal you'll have to stretch the spring and pop it under at the same time band will try to come back out and roll seal back off lip..good luck
Posted on Jul 17, 2008
If your water heater is old or has been recently replaced, it will slough off debris that will get caught in the hot water supply side of the faucet. You have to disassimble the faucet and use a dental pic to remove the debris from it. This is a real common occurance. You can also try to flush out that side by removing the parts and then slowly turning on the water without the parts inside. Be careful not to flood your bathroom when you do this. But usually you have to dig it out. I have spent as high as 3 hours digging the liner from the dip tube of a water heater out of a faucet.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
You can't really repair the seal, but you can replace it with a new one for under $130 if you do the repair yourself. You can order it online or from a local appliance shop, as prices vary slightly from place to place.
The tub gasket (door seal) is part number #WH08X10022 with a new substitution part #WH08X10036. However, since each model can be slightly different, depending on the serial number which denotes when it was manufactured, you might want to confirm that the above gasket is the correct one for your particular washer.
I'd suggest you call the folks at Sears Parts Direct at 1-800-252-1698 and give them your complete model number AND serial number before you start in on the repair, so you can be sure you have the correct substitution bellows gasket.
It's a relatively easy repair, all you need to do is remove the spring retaining wire around the outer edge of the bellows gasket, just peel it back at the edge to see it. Now locate the locking loop by going around the rim. Once you find the locking loop, you can remove it using a couple pairs of small needle nose pliers as they make it easier to get off.
Once you've done that, you'll see the locking plate that holds the back side of the bellows gasket onto the outer washer tub. Remove those fasteners and you can get the bellows off and start in on putting the new bellows onto the washer, just reversing the order you used in the removal process.
Here's a line drawing that shows the exploded view of the tub section, with the gasket (item #306). Just take your time removing the old gasket so you remember what you're doing and when installing the new gasket so as not to rip or tear it in the process. I'd also suggest you let the gasket relax for a good 4-5 hours (to get the kinks and folds out of it from the packing box) before you do the installation.
Here's another link to one of my other solutions for installing a bellows gasket on a GE front loading washer that you can also review for more installation tips, etc.
Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
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