Question about Jenn-Air PRG3010 (NP) Gas Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Boone, by the sound of your post it sounds like the power relay board could be bad. If you had a stuck or shorted keypad, you should be getting a different code. The F2 code means an overheated condition. If it's a double oven it could mean a secondary board failure. The way to go on this would be to ohm out the temp sensor first. Should read about 1100 ohms at room temp. Another way to check it is to swap the bake and broil wires on the power relay board. They will be marked BA and BR. Fire the oven up again and if the bake element comes on then you know that the broil relay is stuck or shorted. Without being there to do the tests, I believe that the problem lies in the power relay board. The part number for the board is 71003431. Priced around 116.00. Jenn-Air usually has a 5 year warranty on these parts. Hope this points you in the right direction. Catriver..post back
Posted on Apr 10, 2007
Have a look through this lot, there are a few problems for your model discussed, but nothing that sounds like a known problem for the model; http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/f-64.html This link has a good description of a common problem with the model (temperature too low compared to the digital readout) and it's solution; http://applianceguru.com/forum1/955.html this link has a good collection of reviews on the stove - people were still buying them new in '98, couldn't find exactly when they started selling them; http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Ranges-Jenn-Electric-Jenn-Air_Slide-In_30-Inch_Electric_Range_SVE47100/display_~reviews If you have any problems and need parts, there are still many companies offering them online for this model - just type "jenn air SVE47100 parts" into google and you will get a good selection. Sorry I had no luck finding a user manual online, free or otherwise, you could try contacting jenn air direct to see if they could send you one; http://www.jennair.com/content.jsp?name=contact_us Hope this helps :)
Posted on Jul 07, 2007
So it's dead? (No display, no inside lights, no beeps?)
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the thermostat to open. When it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
If it's random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Please write back with more details if you need further help.
We appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Nov 18, 2007
SOURCE: Oven does not heat up
We may have found it - google Maytag Gas and Electric Range Service Manual (1997 models to present) and save it as a PDF to your desk top. Then print out the PDF pages # 18, 25 & 26, 52, 62 65 & 66. Those pages sound exactly like the problem we're having, which sounds identical to the problem you're having. We now suspect the issue is the gas valve heater coil and the volts it needs for ignition. Because without enough volts, the ignitor won't ignite (like, duh?). The specific PDF page is # 66 in reference to the Glow Bar Operation item # 4. If we're right, we'll need to get three small parts, totaling about $60 in all. Let's hope this is the solution!
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
hi, Could be a bad bake element or a bad temperature sensor. If the element will glow bright red/orange with no hotspots it is OK. Take a volt/ohm meter set for ohms and check the temp sensor. If less than 1050 ohms replace it.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
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