Question about Washing Machines

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The washer is not draining from the hoses, it is coming from the top back left side of the tub. pump is working fine and the hoses are all clear. our floor is flooded now since the washer drained.

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It sounds like you may have a bad seal. check the seal at the bottom of the tub. Check also for crack in the hose or the gaskets around the pump.

Posted on Feb 09, 2012

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Washer doesn't drain

Flore, there is a check ball that sits in the reservoir that goes to the pump. That could be all gunked up. I assume you have power to the new pump. Sometimes the motor conroller can be the culprit, but if you have power we'll rule that out. You can remove the basket to get at the reservoir and check ball. You will have to pop the top, remove the basket and nutate cover and unbolt the basket. If you don't have power to the new pump then check the motor controller. This will be the board on the left under the control panel. There will be a P-5 connection. 3 prong. You will want to see if there is 120V on the tan/yellow to the white wire while in drain. If you don't have that voltage, then you motor controller is causing the problem. First be sure you have 120V on the P1 connector, thats power in. Catriver

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • 2920 Answers

SOURCE: leaking water underneath washer

it could be the pump or the hoses its hard to tell til you get in there and look to see for sure.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Water still in bottom of tub after drain/spin cycle

I removed the drain hose from the bottom left rear corner of the washer & cleaned a large amount of gooey sludge from the bottom of the drain inside the washing machine.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: matag neptun front load washer wont drain

You have a clog in your pump; have to dismantle to de-clog. Look carefully.

Tip:

Empty out all pockets in clothing before loading the machine!

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Discharge hose does not fit onto laundry tub causing flooding.

Yes - they are sold at any hardware or appliance store. It is a drain tub clip.


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Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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1 Answer

Took apart the washer and dryer and need to put it back together...i have everything except where the clear plastic hose goes


Kristen-follow the hoses-water comes into machine at the water supply valves-hot and cold which go into the tub-then there is a drain pump which is connected to the tub via a hose-the out put of the drain pump is connected to the drain through the back of the machine usually at the bottom and this goes into your houses' drain-follow the hoses and you shall reach laundry success-cheers Denny

Oct 25, 2013 | Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked...

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I need to replace the drain pump: I'm trying to replace the drain pump myself and don't know how. Is there actually 2 of them? That's what it looks like now that I have the back off!??


Hello,

Thier is two pumps however one is the drain pump and the other one is the circulate pump that circulates the water back up to the top of the tub so it will reenter the tub and d=fall over the clothes during the wash cycle.

I want to make sure firstly that ya have the correct drain pump the part number for it is W10217134 and its to the right side (WHEN LOOKING FROM THE FRONT ...SO THE LEFT SIDE FROM THE REAR) when looking at the 2 pumps one will have a hose to it that goes back up to the tub cover that one is the circulate pump and the drain pump will have the hose that goes up and out the back of the washer as opposed to the tub cover.


GENE

Oct 08, 2011 | Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Keep getting "FH" problem. Replaced the hoses, though they looked just fine and examined the screens: they were clear. Water pressure, flow doesn't seem to be a problem. Any suggestions short of calling a...


FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating and POSITIVE TESTIMONIAL is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Oct 17, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My He3t stops in the middle of washing several times and flashes the error code 'HF' I drain the back hose, but that won't always clear the code and it does it again.


FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore elite 2 error F H i didn't know how to go back to post


FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch – remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It’s a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Aug 20, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

3 Answers

Washer won't drain -- clean the pump


First I would try to flush the pump, if the tub is still full of water. To flush the pump, take a garden hose sprayer and fit it tight into the drain hose. Give it a short shot of water, then stick the drain hose back into the drain. Put the washer on spin and see if any water comes out. You may have to do this more than once to clear the pump. If that does not work, siphon the water out of the washer and disconnect the hose from the pump to the drum. Clear the hose the best you can, pour a little water into the drum to check it. Check the pump too, take it apart if you have to.

May 05, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

LD is on my display-nothing will clear it and washer doesnt drain


the ld code means a long drain, what you probably have is something blocking the drain pump.
you can get to the drain pump from the back of the unit and it will be the pump on the left as you face the back.
you will need to remove the hose going into the pump and be ready for water to come out. sorry but you need to check inside the hose as there will be something blocking it. like a coin or some lint or a small sock.
when you get the item out of the hose then it should work again. you do not need to reset the control. once it knows the unit is draining properly it will be ok.

Jan 30, 2009 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

14 Answers

Cabrio Washer LD error code


Is there water in the bottom of the tub? If yes then open back of washer and remove drain pump (on left side) and pull off of tub and clear whatever is blocking its impeller.
If the water is all gone and drained but pump stays on for several minutes and then gives "LD" fault then open back and check the small clear tube that is attached to the tub. Make sure is not blocked with debris and check tube and tub for anything that could block the small clear tube. If these are ok then remove 3 screws in back of the control panel, pull open control panel and check the clear tub all the way up from the tub to the washer controller board (computer) make sure it is not kinked or disconnected. If not then the problem is most likely the pressure sensor on the (computer). This unit will have to be replaced.
You can test the sensor by doing the following: 1. When the "LD" fault comes on start by pressing the pause button. then pull the clear tube off of the computer board. Then attach a tight fitting drinking straw over the sensor. Press the start button and wait for 60 seconds - If the washer does not start the spin cycle on its own after the 60 seconds then **** on the drinking straw that you attached to the pressure sensor earlier. The sucking action should reset the sensor thus telling the computer that the water is drained and it will start the spin cycle. Just remember if you have to do this to get the washer to spin - that means the sensor is damaged most likely from moisture traveling up the tube over time. The computer board will need to be replaced. I believe it costs $205 without shipping. Hope this helps.

Oct 13, 2008 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

Kenomore elite washer


Drain problems can come from a number of places. If you've already replaced the pump, then let's first check The drain insdie your tub. If it's plugged from that side, you'll get the same problem. So with that said...Where the front panel and the top of the machine meet, there is a crack. When using a flashlight, you will see 4 items in this crack. 2 are green 2 are black. The black
pieces are support studs, ignore them. The green one's are clips that hold the top to the front. Using a putty knife (easier) or a small flat head screw driver (a bit more difficult) push one of the green clips towards the rear of the machine while lifting on the top (warning they are very stiff). You can wrap the tool in a light
cloth to help protect the finish, althought it may make the clips more difficult to remove. Only lift slightly (too far and it will bind on those support studs I told you about) Now press the clip on the other side and lift the top up.(now this is easier if you have a second person to hold up the lid while you work underneath.
You will see your tub from a new perspective. First you will see a plastic ring around the top of the tub. Disconnect the green clamp on the hose towards the left rear using a pair of pliers or channel locks. The ring is held down with clips all of the way around the tub. By pressing down over each clip and pulling the clips slightly forward, you can remove the top ring. The rest is the easiest part. In the center of the basket, there is a small cap. Remove this with a small flat head screwdriver. Remove the bolt (7/16") that is underneath the cap. Now lift the whole basket
out. If your small items get too far (ie, the pump), remove the back panel. On the left hand side you will see a small black hose towards the botom. This connects to the pump. Forign objects can lodge in here keeping it from draining also. If you
disconnect the hoses, have something handy for all of the water to go into (large wet vac is usually the best). Drop the 3 #20 torx screws and the pump will come down and you can remove the obstructions. Finnaly, try re-seating your drain hose. If it is too far down side the house drain pipe it can cause problems as well. Remove the drain hose (the thicker black hose from the back of the machine) out of the wall. Now re-insert it back in only 6" going into the drain. When they go in too far, the drain in your house that prevents odors from coming back out of your drain causes a siphon that pulls the water back out when the washer is filling. Make sure to tie the drain hose down with a tie so it does not pop back out when the washer is draining/ spinning.

Jun 26, 2008 | Kenmore Oasis HE 27082 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Water leaking around machine


ck belt or replaced belt is designed to slip to a point if belt grabs too quickly the tub rpm come up to fast not giving tub time to drain down far enough to prvent climbing over the side also be sure drain hose is not plugged reducing water flow to drain

Jun 04, 2008 | Amana ALW880WH Top Load Washer

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