Question about Saws
Where do you put it & would porter cable special high grade lubricant be good to use?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Go to Dremel.com or call toll free1-800-437-3635 and tech service might be able to get you a schematic and wiring diagram. It does sound as though the switch is either wired incorrectly or put in upside down. If I have helped you on this would you please take the time to rate me accordingly and Thank you
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
Before you attempt any of this I would recommend going to Dewaltservicenet.com and see what the inside of this tool looks like. It appears that you need to remove part of the front gearcase to get into the lube. The back e.g. brushes is not that big of a deal. If there is a Service Center near you they have a Max repair rate that they will fix anything on this saw at a preset firm price and if it is less that is what they would charge.
Posted on May 18, 2009
Bicycle chain lube works well in these situations. It's usually a teflon based lubricant, light weight, with good penetration, and little tendency to gum up in the long run.
In a pinch, WD40 will work as well...though it will tend to gather more dirt and dust. If you have rust issues, WD40 will drive the moisture out...
Make sure the moving parts attached to the end of the cable are freely moving as well. Frequently they are the cause of the friction, rather that the cable itself...
I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
The table can be cleaned and waxed with a good quality paste wax like Trewax clear. If it has rust, you can use automative polish/cleaner and a rag or fine scotch pads to get the rust out, then wax the surface to protect it. Period waxing will maintain a low friction surface through use. Old timers used to recommend rubbing the bare steel table with talc to seal the pores, but I find was is more readily available and gives a better surface for use...Wax is also good on the moving parts of the fence.
The worm gears and trunnions can be cleaned with compressed air and regular 30w motor oil in a pump can. Maybe a soft wire brush or toothbrush if needed to remove built up resin and pitch. If there's a really heavy build up on the gears, get some OxiSolve bit and blade cleaner from Woodworker's supply and it will safely dissolve the gunk to a consistency you can scrub off with a toothbrush. I maintain these moving mechanical parts with oil, which an old pro recommended years ago, and have found it doesn't contribute to sawdust build up as you think it might, not nearly so much as an assembly lube or white grease, and makes raising and lower the blade a joy. If you're concerned about dryness, you can try triflow or some kind of bicycle chain lube, but I've decided the expense isn't worth the results, and oil is readily available when I need it...
If replacement parts are available for your model, try here. Otherwise, and for older machines, you might find a manual or parts info at this site.
After market fences are available for your saw, and depend on user preference. I've been very happy with my Biesemeyer fence, after using it (and many others) for 22 years. It is also heavy duty.
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
Looks like are the motor brushes. If you need more help come back.Post /
thumbs / testimonial are
Try open the motor and look for.
If you need more help come back.Post /
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Posted on Nov 23, 2010
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