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RF266ABPN/XAA temperature indicators flashing the temperature setting, but not cooling in the fridge or freezer

I purchased this used. When I first powered it up, it was so quiet, I thought it wasn't working, but the fan was spinning and the compressor gently vibrating. It took several hours before the temperature indicators moved off of the 68 degrees they were showing upon power-up. When they reached the setpoint temperatures (34 for fridge and -14 for freezer) the actual temperatures were still ambient, although the door handles were cool. Now they flash the set points with no actual cooling.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: not cooling

Listen for a clicking noise from the compressor. Could be a bad relay on the compressor, sealed system problem, or faulty board.

Posted on Oct 05, 2007

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  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: fridge not cold - freezer cuts out at minus 10 degrees.

check damper control

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4070 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge compartment is not cooling down to set temperature

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

SOURCE: Samsung Cooltech SL-L551DP fridge Freezer.

Hello,

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The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.

The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons

  1. The fan or blower has failed.
  2. The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.


The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working

Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.

For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it's own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.

So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.

  1. The fan or blower
  2. The timer device
  3. The electric heater coil
By methodically checking these parts you can isolate your problem and fix it.

Take care.

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: I have an fisher and

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
You should enter the diagnostic mode to determin your fault:

Diagnostic Mode

To enter diagnostic modes, press and hold the MENU button

- then press the UP button for 4 seconds. The PC temperature

will be displayed on the LCD. The actual temperature of the PC is

shown. Note Temperatures are shown in Degrees Centigrade.

PC Sensor Temperature ____

- By pressing the Up button once more, this

will indicate the FC sensor temperature. Note: The "min" indicates minus 12°C

FC Sensor Temperature

- By pressing the Up button once more, this will indicate the Defrost sensor temperature.

Defrost Sensor Temperature

- By pressing the Up button once more, this will indicate the input/Output Status.

Input/Output Status

- Press UP one and two more time, both LCDs display 87.5 but should be ignored

Spare/ Blanks

- Press UP one more time and fault history will be shown.

Fault History

To exit diagnostic mode press MENU button


FAULT CODES:


A wrench symbol and LCD fault code will appear automatically if there is a fault in the

temperature measuring system, defrost system, fans or low ambient heater.

When the PC door is opened an alarm will sound, the number of beeps also indicates

the fault code. Pressing any of the control buttons can deactivate these alarms

Fault Code 1

Reason: On last power up, the power module failed self test.

Primary Action: Replace power module

Fault Code 2

Reason: The previous 2 defrosts were aborted after 30 minutes

Primary Action: Check defrost element

Fault Code 3

Reason: The resistance of all the temperature sensors is outside the normal range

(>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check 6 -way Rast connector at power module

Fault Code 4

Reason: The resistance of all the temperature sensors is outside the normal range

(

Primary Action: Check 6 -way Rast connector at power module

Fault Code 5

Reason: The resistance of the FC sensors is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module

Fault Code 6

Reason: The resistance of the FC sensors is outside the normal range (

Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module

Fault Code 7

Reason: The resistance of the Defrost sensor is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module

Fault Code 8

Reason: The resistance of the Defrost sensor is outside the normal range (

Primary Action: Check sensor connector

Fault Code 9

Reason: The resistance of the PC sensors is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check sensor connector

Fault Code 10

Reason: The resistance of the PC sensors is outside the normal range (

Primary Action: Check sensor connector

Fault Code 11

Reason: The current for the LAH, PC &FC Fan is lower than expected

Primary Action: Check the 6 way fan/LAH, connector at module.

Fault Code 12

Reason: The current for the LAH, PC &FC Fan is higher than expected

Primary Action: Check the 6 way fan/LAH, connector at module.

Fault Code 13

Reason: LAH is drawing less current than expected.

Primary Action: LAH open circuit

Fault Code 14

Reason: LAH is drawing higher current than expected.

Primary Action: Check wiring connection

Fault Code 15

Reason: PC fan is drawing less current than expected.

Primary Action: PC fan open circuit

Fault Code 16

Reason: PC fan is drawing higher than expected current

Primary Action: Check fan wiring or connections

Fault Code 17

Reason: FC fan is drawing less current than expected.

Primary Action: FC fan open circuit

Fault Code 18

Reason: FC fan is drawing higher current than expected.

Primary Action: Check FC fan & wiring circuit


There are also Ice maker faults that are NOT included above. This should get you started and if everything passes above diagnosis the problem is most likely in your ice maker circuit. The reason I did not include ice maker faults is because they do not cause alarms.


Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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