Constantly releases 30psi of air into atmosphere before holding air in the tank
I've removed the plastic cap under the on/off switch to adjust the cut out to 90psi for the tank via the sprung bolt. The compressor will cut out at whatever psi I set it at but will then release a further 30psi of air via a hole directly under the switch housing that connects a thin bronze pipe to the tank (not via the relief valve which is separate and can be operated manually by pulling the end pin. Why does it release 30psi before it will hold the air in the tank? If at this point I don't immediately switch the compressor off at the wall, it will continue to release 30psi after cutting out then start again until 90psi is in the tank again before going thru the whole cycle of releasing 30psi again.
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Re: Constantly releases 30psi of air into atmosphere...
IS THE AIR LEAKING FROM A SMALL LEVER ON THE SIDE WITH A TIRE STEM VALVE IN IT. IT HAS A SMALL COPPER OR PLASTIC LINE COMING FROM IT? THIS IS THE UNLOADER . IS SO YOUR INTANK CHECKVALVE MAY NOT BE HOLDING.
THE PRESSURE SWITCH IS TYPICALLY ADJUSTABLE FOR CUTOFF PRESSURE AND THE DIFFERENTAL (SPREAD) BETWEEN CUTIN AND CUTOUT
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Assuming your talking about the regulater it is repairable. first remove from comp. disassemble bottom needle valve and seat by simply unscrewing round cap on bottom of reg. check to see if the valve is hanging up . normally due to air comp. oil blow by. clean lubracate and check for o ring or seat damage. remove 4 screws from top of reg. first loosen adjustment knob to release spring tention once you remove make sure diapham isnt torn or damaged clean lub. reassemble bottom valve push the needle down to make sure it releases and works properly. reassemble top diaphram spring adjustment and cap test if the through cleaning doesn't work and in my experiance it does 85 % of the time you can buy a rebuild kit for it. hope this helps it is a simple repair
Check your Safety Valve. It is on the back of the tank sometimes on one of the pressure switch ports or on the air manifold. It has a ring on it to pull to relieve pressure from the tank. The spring in these can get overheated so they don't hold air unless the tank gets over 165 psi. When the motor is running hold the center pin in to see if you have the same results. If the valve holds air until you let it go, replace it.
there should be a pressure regulator on your compressor. sometimes the adjustment is covered by a plastic cap, remove the cap and use a flat screwdriver to turn the pressure regulating screw. clockwise for more pressure or counterclockwise to decrease the pressure. depending on the type of pressure regulator it should only take 2 to 4 complete turns to increase your pressure to 110-120 psi.
Hi, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. Will it come on at all? Check the outlet circuit breaker, if it comes on at all, check where the line comes form the pump to the tank, there got to be a leak, you may have to remove it in order to check under it. Check for a reset button next to the wire coming to the switch. Thanks for choosing FixYa...John
There are two valves in play here. There is a relief valve that opens when the motor kicks off to release the pressure in the compressor itself. That is normal, and is required so that the motor can restart next time without having to overcome that pressure. The other valve is the problem. It is a reed valve between the compressor and the tank. This valve's job is to prevent the air in the tank from returning to the compressor. Think of it as a ratchet for the air. It is this reed valve that has failed.
The adjustment for "Cut-In" and "Cut Out" can be found under the pressure switch cover, if available. Some switches are sealed to prevent tampering that might compromise safety. If you remove the cover you will see the four electrical connections and one or two screws with springs under them. Most times if the adjustments are accessible you will find a set of instructions under the switch cover. One screw will adjust both the "Cut-In/Cut-Out" pressure and one to adjust the "Cut-Out" pressure only.
However you need to remember some important issues regarding these adjustments. The first is that the "Cut-In/Cut-Out" pressure is set at the factory and is set there for a reason. The only reason to change these is because over time the adjustments can change or you are installing a new switch. The other thing to remember is that the safety relief valve is set just above the "Cut-Out" psi. So any meaningful increase will only trigger the safety valve.
If you need to readjust your compressor back to factory settings make sure you do it with small adjustments. 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the screws. Run the compressor and check both the "Cut-In" and "Cut Out" psi setting before making another adjustment.
I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "set the gauge to 120psi". Do you mean you set the pressure switch to 120psi? Or are you referring to the regulator and regulator gauge? If you the pressure regulator this will have no effect on your cut-out psi. You must adjust the cut-in cut-out psi setting at the switch. To make these adjustment first disconnect the power and remove the plastic cap covering the switch. Under it you will find two adjustment screws. Most of the time under the plastic cap itself is a diagram of the switch and an explanation of the adjustments. As long as the cut-in psi is correct then make your adjustment to the cut-off psi only. It should be counter clock wise. I would make a large adjustment down, then small ones back up to the desired psi. Hope this helps. If not, one screw adjusts both the cut-in and cut-out psi. The other only affects the cut-out psi.
Before you adjust the perssure switch, make sure that the intank check valve is not leaking pressure back to the pressure switch after it cuts off at 140psi. The check valve should hold pressure at 140psi. Follow the discharge airline to the tank to find the checkvalve (either chrome or brass with large cap). To check for leaking valve, run compressor till shut-off at 140, then unplug the compressor from wall and remove the 1/4 air fitting at the checkvalve and check for leak. If leaking, replace valve and leave the pressure switch at present setting. You should be good to go. Good Luck with your repair and email if you have questions.
The problem that you describe is caused by the in-tank check valve and/ or the unloader at the pressure switch. When the compressor cycles off the pressure switch releases the air that remains in the air line thru a small valve. There is a 1/4 " plastic tube extending from the check valve to the switch. Listen for the release of air as soon as the compressor stops. There is a small metal tab that pushes on the unloader valve that may need to be adjusted. The motor does not have enough power to start pumping if there is air/backpressure in the air line. If these parts are working correctly then check the value of the start capacitor and use meter to measure. The cap should test within 95 % of stated value. Parts are available at www.chpower.com. Enjoy