Question about GE PSC23SGR Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
I have read several issues with the GE side by side refrigerators, however I have not found my exact issue.
My refrigerator will not dispense ice but it makes ice fine. When I select ice, and try to dispense it, the ice light goes out and nothing happens. I can hear the relay closing when I push on the dispenser.
When I select water it will work one the first attempt sometimes. Most of the time the water light will go out, I hear the pump kick on, and no water. Normally if I keep trying it will finally keep the water light on and dispense water. Sometimes the door light will dim or go out as well.
So it does no sound like a frozen line, but I am not sure if it's the front board, rear mother board, wiring, plugs, etc.....
The unit is 2 1/2 years old and was included in my $10,000 GE profile appliance package which is a POS. My dishwasher also has issues but that's a different story!
Any help would be appreciated as my wife has had it with the refrigerator. She makes several bottles each day for our infant and it always seems to give her problems.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with my GE Profile Arctica model #PSC23SGRD. The ice dispenser stopped working completely (although the freezer still made ice okay) and the water dispenser started to work intermittently.
I had read that either the circuit board in the front (behind the ice and water buttons) could fail or the main "mother" board in the back could fail. First I checked the one in the front for any visible signs of failure but it looked fine. Then I checked the board in the back (lower freezer side). Right away I could smell the distinct smell of blown capacitors so I looked for the matching visual evidence. Sure enough there were two "bulging" caps near the top right side of the board. I decided I would try and replace them myself and hope for the best so I went ahead and bought two new replacements from my local Fry's. BTW, the capacitors were 470 micro Farads @ 25 volts. They should be rated to at least 105 degrees. Cost was $1.50 each.
Next I removed the board from the fridge. First unplug the fridge. The board is on the back of the fridge near the bottom of the freezer side. There is a panel cover with a dozen or so screws holding it. One screw holds down a ground wire so keep note of that. Remove the panel and you will see a large circuit board with about 7 wire harnesses attached to it. Note were each one goes and its orientation before removing them! Each harness has a slip lock connector that is impossible to remove from the board without breaking the clip that locks it down to the board. Don't worry about breaking those clips, I think GE does this on purpose to determine if the board has been tampered with or not. Anyway, remove all of the wire harnesses. Don't bother removing the two ground wires from the board, just keep them on. The board itself is mounted to the fridge with small pastic posts that click through holes in the board. These are easy to slip off if you pinch the top of the post before pulling out the board. Once the board is out, it is time to replace those caps.
Now the fun begins. Time for a little soldering. First you must remove the old caps by desoldering them and plucking them out. Please note the cathode side of the old caps before removing them b/c the orientation matters! Once they are out, solder in the new ones. This whole process shouldn't take too long, maybe 20 minutes?
Now the moment of truth. Put the board back into the fridge and put all the wire harnesses back where they go. Reattach the panel (make sure the ground wire is screwed down). Plug in the fridge. Cross fingers.
I hope this works for you. I worked for me and only cost a few bucks instead of the cost of a new motherboard and service call!
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
Had the same problem. Pressed button heard a click, saw zeroes flash, then nothing. After some online search I found and solved the problem. Corrosion and condensation on the connector plug attached to the wire at the bottom of the freezer door. Remove plastic grill, pull out wire from under box. You'll find a plastic connector and possibly wet or corroded wiring. CUT POWER TO FRIDGE OFF FIRST. I cut away the white plastic connector then stripped and tied the wires together with wire caps. Taped them up too. Note which wire goes to which first. Mine was blue to blue, black to black, and red to white. Problem solved.
Posted on Sep 04, 2012
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