Question about Electrolux Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the system which controls water level is an air chamber with a small diameter pipe which goes to a pressure stat. when the correct level is reached, the pressure in the air chamber switches the pressure stat and cuts the water off. the things to look for are: gunge in the air chamber split in the pipe. faulty pressure stat to test, get a similiar length of small diameter pipe and connect it to the pressure stat instead. with the machine filling, blow gently into the pipe and see if the water intake cuts off
Posted on Apr 02, 2007
fault f1 is slow or no cold fill. this fault code with overfill points to: air chamber blocked with sludge hose from air chamber to pressure stat blocked or split pressure stat faulty of these the first is the most likely
Posted on Apr 10, 2007
Sounds like a bad mixing valve. To verify that it is the valve you need to turn off the washer when it is filling. If water keeps running, replace the valve, Cost is under $50. for most washers.
Posted on Jan 03, 2008
SOURCE: Overflowing washing machine
check the pressure switch . its circluar in shape with 6/8 wires attached, and a small nipple with a 10mm pipe attached. as the water rises in the drum air is pushed up thru this pipe which when working ok , eventually pushes against a switch .hence its name. so, if there is damage to this pipe( maybe rubbing against the drum) the passage of air escapes before reaching the switch. if the pipe is ok then check the switch by blowing up the pipe (with the power off ) and u should hear a small click inside the switch. if not replace
Posted on Feb 07, 2008
Our LG WM-2432H front load washer was overfilling. I got the service manual from LG on the web ( http://18.104.22.168/contents/Laundry/WM2432.htm )
and the most useful thing in that manual was a listing of special control codes that can be entered from the front panel, for example to turn on the drain pump.
I thought maybe the sensor switch was broken, but after disassembling the machine I discovered that the 3/16" ID rubber hose between the sensor switch and the bottom of the tub had shaken loose from its supports and through dragging on the back of the tub during spin cycles, had worn down and had a hole in it, allowing air pressure to leak.
After vacuuming up the shredded rubber, I replaced that tubing with a three foot length of 3/16" inside diameter fuel line purchased from a local Lowes store. I used some twist ties to secure it to the back of the washer housing so it would not drag on the drum. The washer now works fine.
You can do this whole repair by removing the back access panel, only four screws. Look for shredded rubber; the hose just slips off of the sensor and the tub connect points at both ends.
Posted on Mar 25, 2008
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