Question about In Win (BL641.300TBL) Micro ATX Desktop Slimline Case

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Removal of BL641 Case Fan

The BL641 case includes a 8cm case fan mounted in the side. I'd like to replace mine with another 8cm (low noise / high CFM) fan I have handy but I can't figure out how to release the existing fan from the mounting bracket.

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Which way does the rear fan go in a compaq computer tower


The proper installation of a CPU fan is often the subject of debate. Though there are conflicting theories as to which direction the CPU fan should face, there are methods to ascertain which CPU fan installation best suits your needs. The determining factors of your CPU fan installation direction include the manufacturer specifications, your case design and the specific design of your heat sink
Horizontal Installation
  • The installation of a CPU fan horizontally to the plane of the motherboard is the most common installation orientation there is. Your options when installing your CPU fan are to blow cool air onto the heat sink or to pull cool air through the heat sink from the motherboard. Horizontal installations show negligible advantages in either installation direction. The differences in temperature usually vary by only 1 or 2 degrees Celsius. The main point to consider when installing a horizontal CPU fan is the location of the rear exhaust fan on the case. If the rear exhaust fan on the case is parallel to the processor, it is advantageous to have the fan pull cool air from the motherboard and push it out above the heat sink. This is because the case fan will quickly draw that hot air away from the CPU and out of the case, allowing for quick cooling.

Vertical Installation
  • Vertical, or tower, heat sinks rise high enough off the motherboard to allow for a fan to be installed perpendicular to the plane of the motherboard. This allows for cooling to go from the front to the back of the case, as opposed to going from the bottom to the top. Optimal installations for vertical heat sinks are blowing toward either the back or the top of the case. If there is no exhaust fan in the top face of your computer's case, it is more effective to orient your fan on your vertical heat sink so that it blows toward the rear exhaust fan of the case. If there is an exhaust fan on the top face of your computer case, it is almost always more effective to mount your CPU fan so that it blows air up toward the top of your case. The reasoning behind this is that hot air rises and will more naturally flow off the top of your case. Also, top-mounted fans are usually larger and allow for faster airflow out of the case.

Manufacturer Recommendations
  • It is often the case with nonstock heat sinks that the manufacturer has designed the heat sink's fan to be mounted in a limited number of orientations. This is usually evidenced by limited mounting notches on the heat sink itself. Most aftermarket heat sinks use technologies such as heat pipes that have specific cooling needs to operate appropriately. Because of this, it is important that in any CPU fan installation you follow the manufacturer's installation instructions.


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My yamaha keeps turning off as soon as i turn it on...


Buy yourself a 120mm 12volt computer case fan and a 12volt power pack. Mount the fan with some double sided tape to the grill on top of your AVR. Have the fan mounted so it draws air out of the amp and turn it on when you know you are going to crank up the volume. Try and buy a fan with the lowest noise level so it isn't annoying

Dec 10, 2010 | Yamaha RX-V595 Receiver

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I have a denon avr-791 with klipsch icon series bookshelf 5.1 setup...when i push the reciver to higher volumes (above 60%) for extended amounts of time, the reciver gets hot and shuts down...got any...


I would buy a computer case fan and mount it onto the top of your amp where the grill is. Wire the fan to a 12v power pack and switch it on when you know you are going to crank up the volume. Mount the fan with some double sided tape and have it drawing air out of AVR case. When you buy your fan get one with the lowest noise level

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Loud fan noise


HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.


The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.


This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.

Jun 02, 2010 | Whirlpool ED2FHEXN Side by Side...

1 Answer

Noisy fridge


HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.


The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.


This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.

Feb 15, 2010 | Frigidaire FRS3R5EMB Side by Side...

1 Answer

My refrigerator is making a noise after the system cools. What is this?


HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.


The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.


This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.

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2 Answers

Our frig is making a loud noise every 40 min.


That's usually mounts inside the compressor. It could still last awhile so if you can put up with the noise just wait for it to quit before replacing the compressor or getting a new fridge. If it doesn't seem to be coming from the compressor you have two fans, one in the freezer and one near the compressor which could be noisy from hitting ice or wearing out.

Dec 20, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Noisy, Chattering fan with fisher & paykel fridge.


HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.


The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.


This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.....

Dec 20, 2009 | Fisher Refrigerators

1 Answer

Makes a loud squaling noise. Noise comes and goes. Sounds like it is coming from the bottom and back of the fridge. I have no idea what it could be? Any ideas? Thanks


HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.


The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.


This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.

Nov 28, 2009 | LG LSC26905TT Side by Side Refrigerator

3 Answers

Fan noise


Generally fans on lower end cases are fairly cheap. I've had several new ones that make lots of noise new. You can call the manufacturers tech support and mess around tryig to get a replacemet or you can just order an inexpensive replacement fan. Cyberguys is where I typically buy my replacements. http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchproducts.asp?categoryID=191

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