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Fisher & paykel Astro built-in oven
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.
first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.
If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.
The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.
Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.
The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.
Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.
This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.....
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
136 fault is 'motor stall'...Quite often this is a broken wire to the motor. However it could also be a Motor fault, or Rotary Position Sensor problem. Water damage can cause this fault as well. After a visual check for broken wires or water damage, and if your machine is in good condition, you should consider a tech....Good luck...Nomess
Posted on May 24, 2010
The temperature switching device has 'died', and needs replacing. This is a continual problem in these stoves (we have replaced each of ours at least once or twice in the 7 years we have had it). I will never buy another F&P oven!
The only solution is to get F&P or another repairman to come out and fix it. It cost us $AU 215 each time.
Posted on Sep 29, 2010
Hi - unfortunately my good friend it cannot be reset as one would like quite easily anyhow... water has found its way to the base of the drwaers and have activated the flooding switch - one could pull it apart to dry it - tip the water out from the base but if the leaks not repaired you will have the same problem later and will be on-going. 5 Fault Codes Fault Code LED Display Fault Possible Causes F1 ----# The flood switch has been activated. A leak has occurred in the base of the dishwasher. Cause The fill valve has failed open. The flood switch is faulty. Excessive water has been added to a wash sub cycle, indicating leaking seal or siphoning. hope this is useful tp you - let me know if you require further asspstance...
5 Fault Codes
Fault Code LED Display Fault Possible Causes
The flood switch has been activated.
A leak has occurred in the base of the dishwasher.
The fill valve has failed open.
The flood switch is faulty.
Excessive water has been added to a wash sub cycle, indicating leaking seal or siphoning.
hope this is useful tp you - let me know if you require further asspstance...
Posted on Jul 17, 2011
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