Question about Kenmore Dryers
The Item # 09810009000, KSN#: 4157479, Part#: W10051160 from Sears.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We have a very close model (almost exactly the same age) with the exact same problem. We have previously had about four repair calls on it for mysteriously shutting down mid-cycle (and generally acting possessed-- like ghosts hitting the buttons ;-). The final "fix" for that problem was replacement of the "user interface" board (Sears P/N 8564375). It worked fine for a couple months and then developed the same problem you describe. The problem is most likely either with P/N 8564375 ("USER INTERFACE" the display/button board), P/N W10118243 ("CONTROL ELECTRONIC"-- that's the part that actually *reads* the buttons and sets the lights on and off), or possibly the wiring harness between the two. My guess is that it it erroneously reading the 'signal volume' switch as being pressed and is setting the light/beeper accordingly. We had W10118243 replaced on our unit before (basically the techs just swapped stuff out until it started behaving), so I doubt that's the problem. I've tried messing with the cable on ours and that doesn't seem to be the problem. I think P/N 3407184 (The "USER INTERFACE") is probably the best bet. It's cheaper than a service call at least. ($89 for a whole new assembly, vs. ~$300+ for a service call) You can go to the Sears Parts store (http://www3.sears.com/) and type in your model number (on the sticker inside the dryer door) and then look at the "Top Console and Parts" page. There's a "Diagram" button that will show you the expanded view of all the parts. I imagine they call the parts by the same name on all the units. Basically you want to look for the circuit board with the lights and buttons on it that sits under the plastic front housing. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 19, 2007
SOURCE: Sears Kenmore Dryer #86681100
I took the top off of the dryer to access the door switch. Took the number off the part and went to Trible's appliance parts and got a replacement. Works fine now.
Posted on Apr 01, 2008
I take the timed approach with appliance problems. If they occur 10 years after purchase, I buy a new one. If five years, I call a repair service and measure the cost of repair against the purchase of a replacement. If one year or less after purchase, I pile the expensive, offending, useless lump of an example of the decline of American workmanship into the back of my pickup and push it out on the doorstep of the store where I purchased it.
I find this method to be the most cost-effective and least troubling. And costs me about the same as calling the repair service.
In fact, right now I'm loading up my Kenmore Elite Oasis 6705, purchased March 13, 2007, (note that the problem began one month AFTER the warranty ran out) in the back of my pickup and I will make at quick stop at Sears to push it off the back of my truck (I find if I don't stop, but keep the truck rolling it makes for a much louder and attention grabbing drop off) then find the nearest hardware store so I can purchase some strong nylon line to string across my backyard so I can dry my clothes. I also purchase a bit of extra line so that I have enough to string up any Sears or Kenmore representatives who might stop by to inquire about the appliance they found on their doorstep.
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
Just had one of those calls today......what I found this time was simply that the blue communication wire harness (I think it's a 3 wire, very easy to spot, runs from the side of each control board) had popped loose from the MCU. Inspect each connection for damage, and re-seat the connectors back into the controls. If that doesn't do it, you can measure for voltage (no fun with those tiny connectors) to the MCU. The code F-40 simply means loss of communication between the CCU and MCU. So it actually could be either board. Check it out and re-post if needed.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
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