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Only adjustment that can be made are to the idle, idle mixture and needle valve which requires some disassembly. Idle mixture should be mae when engine is warm. remove brass plug on bottom of carb ( need to drill out) be carefull, may need to remove carb. Install carb, warm up engine and adjust screw in or out to acheive best idle, then turn in 1/4 turn. adjust engine idle to 900- 950 rpm. If engine smokes under accel drop needle down 1 notch, if seems weak or hesitates under load, raise needle one notch, refer to Harley manual for specifics
oil and trans plugs on trans pan oil between shocks tough to get to,trans exaust side directly below trans door and it aint a trike trikebuilder harleys dont have differentials but you do change primary oil not rocket science but ya think a book might be a good idea i do
torx srews 2 different sizes take your time ,some tiny screws in there and pay close att to wire placement undo brakeline remove srews holding leverclamp and remove assembly it is not neccessary to remove switch housing but they must be sepperated to remove the brake lever ***. note:bleeding the brakes takes lots of time and patience somtimesjust keep bleeding and it will come and make sure you use the right fluid for your year and model and also when you get to the otherside buy a book youll need it for clutch cable adjustment
do you have commpression releases on your motor if not you may need to in stall this will ease the stress off your starter and your motor will turn over easier if you do have the releases not sure what you may need to do without hearing the drag to determine if gearing is issue
Been a while since I've done one of these, but I believe you have to take the shocks loose at the fender struts and drop them down and out of the way. The signals should go back on in the same place, no relocation. On a couple of these I've had to get longer bolts for the signals, but it may not be required, so keep this in mind. And, yes, I know, it would be nice if HD would include the bolts or at least tell you about the possibility of needing longer bolts, I've said this to myself many times in the past.
Hi there You spoke to me earlier with the Instant Messenger and I would just like to apologize for leaving without saying anything. What happened was that I opened a page that had the contents to which you were looking for but the age was too big and Mozilla Firefox restarted which made me lose the connection while i was speaking to you.
I have found some information: You need to loosen the bolt holding your seat onto the bike, once your seat has been pulled back, you can remove the bolt that is holding your shock in place, then you can put your sissy bar on and put the shock back on and then put your seat back on. I hope this is helpful to you and once again i would like to say sorry for what happened today.
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