Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Older kenmore electric dryer

Runs but doesn`t heat up. checked the white fuse with ohm meter and was ok, none of the wires are bad, don`t know how to check the elements if they are bad

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  • bmwz343 Oct 23, 2008

    What am I checking for my meter doesn`t not have tone

  • bmwz343 Oct 23, 2008

    What am I checking for my meter doesn`t not have tone

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  • 62 Answers

This is a element problem, all you have to do is on your meter, is put it on tone, and ck both ends of element, it should beep.The easiest way is to pull off and ck coils for any breaks( look carefully). Make sure unplugged at all times.

Posted on Oct 22, 2008

  • cmcarter13 Oct 26, 2008

    ck the curly coils, to see if broken, anywhere

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Not getting heat


Hello there mark and welcome to fixya
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, you will need to test it for continuity it should read 000 on the meter if good and a 001 or a 1 means bad ok the meter needs to be set at the lowest ohms scale . Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.

Dec 17, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

Tip

How to Troubleshoot a Clothes Dryer with No Heat


<span>Instructions</span> Things You'll Need: <ul> <li> <span>Volt meter Continuity meter/tester Ohm meter (gas dryers)</span> </li></ul> <ol> For Gas or Electric Dryers <li> 1 Check the setting on the dryer. It's a simple thing, but sometimes people forget that they turned down the dryer for a delicate load.<br /> </li> <li> 2 Check the fuse box. Electric dryers require 240 vaults to run, which means they have a dual breaker switch. If one of the breakers clicks off, the dryer has enough power to run but not enough to produce heat. You may need to replace the fuse to prevent this from happening again.<br /> </li> <li> 3 Check the outlet with a volt meter. As said earlier, electric dryers require 240 vaults to run. If there is not enough power to the outlet, but the fuses are fine, then there is a problem with the wires in your house. You will need to call an electrician.<br /> </li> <li> 4 Check the thermal fuse. Depending on the type of dryer, this fuse will be located either in the front of back of your dryer. It is usually an inch long and mounted in white plastic. Test the fuse using a continuity meter. If the fuse has been blown, replace it.<br /> </li> <li> 5 For electric dryers, locate the heating element on your dryer and test it for continuity using a continuity meter. If it is not working, you will need to replace it.<br /> </li> Gas Dryers Only <li> 1 Check the igniter using an ohm meter. Disconnect the clear plastic connector (called a molex) that attaches the igniter to the burner circuit. Place the probes of the ohm meter on the contacts. It should be below 100 ohms of resistance. If it is above 100 ohms, replace the igniter.<br /> </li> <li> 2 Using an ohm meter, test the continuity between the two contacts on the flame sensor. If there is no continuity, replace the flame sensor.<br /> </li> <li> 3 If none of the above works and you notice that your dryer starts out hot but finishes cold and/or you hear a chattering sound when running the dryer, then your problem is likely with the coils. There is no test for the coils. Your only option is to replace them to determine if this is the cause.<br /> </li></ol>

on Dec 29, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Electric Kenmore dryer warms air but not hot Machine is front loading HE2


Hello there:
Please try each of these solutions i will provide below ok?
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct INSIDE the back cover panel.
The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Sep 26, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...


hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer is not heating


Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse


Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Mar 30, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

Runs but does not heat up


if the dryer runs and doesn't heat check the fuse or circuit breaker first flip the circuit breaker to off then on again. to check fuses check visually to see if wire across meter is broken. if this doesn't solve the problem check the terminal block where the line cord attaches to the dryer the red block is the heat block, if ok turn power off and manually take the heater out and check for a break in the coil. if you have a multi-meter just take one wire off heater and set meter on ohms and put one lead on one heater terminal and one on the other if meter pegs the heater is ok if it only moves a little or not at all the heater is no good if heater is ok check the thermostata in the same way. but my money is on a bad fuse or heater, thermostats very rarely go bad

Jan 24, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 80 series Heating Problem


Most of these issues will need an ohm meter, unless you want to just take a guess.
For Gas dryers.
1. See if the ignitor glows, if not, check the thermal fuse. (if the lint screen is on top, the fuse is accessed behind the back panel, it's small and white, next to the bulkier thermostat. If the lint screen is in the front panel, the thermal fuse is mounted on top of the blower wheel housing, accessed behind the bottom-front or "kick" panel. The fuse should read 0 to .2 ohms at the most, technically is should be zero. If that checks ok, check the ignitor itself, which has a wire harness that connects about 6" from the ignitor. Should be around 50 ohms... a faulty ignitor would read infinite ohms (open).
2. If the ignitor does glow, and you hear a click, but there is no flame, replace the valve coils, (two small cylindrical objects mounted on the valve) Part # 279834. This is assuming your gas is ON.

If Electric, it would not be the fuse, as on electric dryers it is also in the motor circuit, and the dryer would not run at all. Check the heating element, should be around 9-11 ohms. If good, check all thermostats (operating, hi-limit, thermal cutoff). Infinite ohms is bad. Hopefully it's not more complicated than this, or it can get weird..... Hope this helps.

Sep 15, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer


For an electric dryer, there are just a few electrical components to test. You will need an "ohm-meter". First one to check would be the thermal fuse, mounted either on the blower wheel housing (for bottom lint screen) or on the rear bulkhead (top lint screen dryers).
You must have dryer unplugged, and have one wire removed from the thermal fuse (typically a small white rectangle or oblong shape, near the thermostat). With the meter set to ohms (resistance) read across the terminals on the fuse...if the meter reads either OL or infinite resistance, you need to replace the fuse. If so, make sure your ductwork is clear and you have good airflow at the exhaust point. If your duct is clear, you should also replace the operating thermostat. If your ductwork has a lot of lint in it, it must be cleaned, or the fuse will fail again.
Ok...if the fuse is ok, next is the heating element. There should be three wires (two large, one small) wires connected to the heating element. Remove one of the larger wires, I don't advise tugging on the wire directly, but instead use a flat head screwdriver to carefully remove from the terminal. Then measure from the now empty terminal to the other terminal with the larger wire, if your meter reads infinite resistance, the heating element needs replaced. Either replacement is quite simple, you will need a 1/4th inch nut driver to remove the screws from the back of the dryer, and the components in question. Hope this helps.

Jan 12, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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