My Husky 36 did this. The oil pump drive gear was stripped and had to be replace. It's located under the flywheel/sprocket so you have to pull that. I couldn't find info on how to do that so had a local shop repair it for $70! Parts are cheap, labor is not.
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You may have gotten some saw dust particles inside the oil resevoir that got sucked into the delivery tube, thus clogging up the oiler...you can drain the oil out of resevoir and run some seafoam thru the oil resevoir to see if you can get it unclogged
What kind of oil did you put in there?? The bar and chain oil is so thick, i can't see it slinging anywhere, you must have used 2 stroke in there. It's OK, That is all I use in my Husky, but it doesn't sling off. I don't know if you have a part missing or what, but there is a little damper right under the chain guard. Check it out, hope this helps.
Some saw manufactures design their oilers to only work with their bars. Are you running the mfg suggested or stock bar? Chain? Stihl Chain is designed to use 30% less oil because of oil groves cut into each drive link directed to the rivets. So if your running an aftermarket bar/chain, the oiling ports may not line up. Especially if it oils with no bar & chain
A longer bar will allow you to cut larger trees easier but if you don't need to cut larger diameter trees and just want to cut faster you can get a more aggressive chain but use caution as you should be VERY experienced as the chain has the ability to pull you right into the work if you are not careful!
Using a very aggressive chain should only be done by professionals with full safety gear.
If you spin the oiler with the when it is desmantled does any oil come threw? (if so then the drum may not be linking to the oiler properly) also check the screw that determins how much oil is coming threw is turned up. And check the filter in the bottom of the oil tank is not blocked
If all you say is true and when revved up the saw oozes oil with the bar removed, then I suspect the bar is incompatible with the saw. Has the bar been replaced? The oiler holes in the bar must align with the channel in the saw. Oiler hole placement is part of the reason there are so many different part numbers for bars. The mount is only part of the requirement.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
I fear you are correct about the oiler problem. I see a lot of oiler problems on these saws. Sooner or later Husky will have to address it. Ask the dealer about modifying your oiler; the 350 has an adjustable and might fit 1 or both of these saws. I think Husky needs to admit the nonadjustable is a mistake, and come up with a fix.
If you want to do some research start with the IPLs here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Please post back (below) with what happens at the dealer. Take your buddy and his saw with you! Good Luck. HTH
If Husky starts modifying all these with 350 oilers I want compensation...LOL
Hi Check and clean the oil filter from oil tank.Check the worm gear wich engages with the oil piston pump(under the clutch).Near the hole where the oil comes out from oil tank there is an oil tank valve(see if it is clogged),it equalises the presure between interior and exterior of the oil tank. best reagards savumihai71
hi cindilou50 check the oil filter from the oil tank,the oil line ,the worm gear and the oiler under the clutch.Clean the ways where the oil goes with compresed air.(after you fill out the oil tank)Also check the oil hose.