Question about Washing Machines
I heard a LOUD buzz coming from the washer. The washer was still full of water and stuck on the spin cycle. I tried to reset but none of the water will drain. I tried filling it, and it does still fill with water, just not drain the water and it wont spin. It also had a slight burning smell to it when i opened the lid. Please help! Thanks!!
it could be [motor] or 'condensur' for motor, starting to burn out or over heat, check drive belt as well for ware
Posted on Dec 08, 2007
Usually this is due to the tripod mount on the back of the drum cracking. Simply replacing the bearings does not help in most instances. The only true remedy is to replace the drum, along with the front and rear tubs. These are usually covered under warranty but the labor (6-8 hours) is a customer pay unless the unit is very new. Also, it is recommended that you replace the drain pump as well when performing this repair. It is a good idea to get this looked at as soon as possible as more damage can incur. I have seen them vibrate so violently that they break the control boards above the drum. If you give whirlpool an earfull, they may or may not offer some help on the bill.
Posted on Oct 23, 2008
If your basket appears to be off-center in the opening, and there is evidence of the basket rubbing the front of the plastic tub, then you should check out my post at:
If this is what happened to your washer, the 'burning smell' you refered to was the plastic tub getting hot from the rubbing of the basket (mine smelled the same way, I originally thought there was an electrical failure).
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
SOURCE: crown series 12 cycle washer will not agitate and smells like something is burning like a for instance a vacumme belt kinda smell in that cycle it spins fine fills fine drains fine but just makes a so
It doesn't agitate
If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.
Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:
Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.
Posted on May 07, 2009
SOURCE: Stuck on spin
With all do respect to Parky16, I'm not sure you know what a Fisher & Paykel unit is.
It sounds like you have a drain pump problem. You will need to get the water out. With a shop vac or something. Tilt the unit back on a milk crate, paint can or pull it out from the wall far enough so it will not fall down.
Looking up from the bottom on the left front side you should see a small pump. If it has been out of balance or has sucked something up in it the fan blade may be stopped. If not you should be able to freely turn this blade. If you can't turn it you have and internal clog.
If you get this far and don't want to call a repairman out let me know.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
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