Temperature gauge is always cold

First things first....
INSPECT COOLANT LEVEL
Low ????
PRESSURE TEST SYSTEM
PRESSURE TEST RADIATOR/EXPANSION TANK CAP
INSPECT DRIVE BELT(s)
INSPECT COOLANT HOSES
INSPECT HEATER HOSES
INSPECT BYPASS/MISC. COOLANT HOSES/PIPES
TEST THERMOSTAT OPERATION
INSPECT RADIATOR TEMPERATURE
INSPECT RADIATOR COOLING FAN(s)/CLUTCH OPERATION
INSPECT CONDENSER/AUXILARY COOLING FAN(s) OPERATION(s)
INSPECT RADIATOR & CONDENSER FOR DEBRI
OBSERVE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE OPERATION

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I would be thinking radiator or water pump. When the engine is warmed up and the upper hose is hot, feel the lower radiator hose. It should be hot too, just a little cooler than the upper hose. If there is some blockage in the radiator, the lower hose may feel cold or just lukewarm.
Even though the water pump doesn't leak, the impellers may be made of plastic and have considerable wear. That would restrict circulation.
The heater core should not be an issue. Heater cores do not cause overheating even when totally plugged up.

typically that is caused from a bad head gasket, fluid from the engine will be forces through the radiator then boils over or bubbles. As far at the no gauge reading, you probably need a new one.

Check to see if the radiator is full (when engine is cold) Make sure you can hear the Thermo fans running when at normal operating temperature. If all that seems fine, replace the engine thermostat.

Both the 4.0L and 4.7L engines use 195� thermostats for all model years from 1999-2004. When replacing a thermostat it is very important to install one with the same temperature rating (the only exception might be with certain performance modifications or chips that recommend or require a different temperature thermostat).

4.0L engine - Draining the cooling system WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.

1. DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine cold, locate radiator draincock on the right lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
2. Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put the other end into a clean container. Open draincock and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not have to be removed from the tank unless the system is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining cooling system. To drain the engine block of coolant, remove the cylinder block drain plug, located on the side of cylinder block below the exhaust manifold.

4.0L engine - refilling the cooling system Coolant recommendations and cautions: The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water. Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion. CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling. 4.0L coolant capacity: 1999-2000: 13.0 qts. (including 2.3 qts. for resevoir) 2001-2004: 15.0 qts. (including 1 qt. for resevoir)

1. Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
2. Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethyleneglycol antifreeze and low mineral content water. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place.
4. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
5. Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion. To purge the cooling system of all air, this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold engine) must be performed three times. Add necessary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark after each cool down period.

For more details, you can refer to the Jeep WJ Service Manual Section-07-Cooling-System-Ewj7

Hope helped.

the tempratue gauge mite have gone ?

When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.

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Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.

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MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!

RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!

You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!

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Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.

If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost

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A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

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Check the coolant level. If coolant drops frequently check for leaks especially on the hoses, radiator and on the water pump. Check if the fan is working by pulling the plug of the temperature sensor on the lower radiator hose. It should run while it is unplugged. Check as well the radiator cap for corrosion. A bad radiator cap would mean steam would escape the system.

try running it without a thermostat if it overheats again then u probably burned the head gasket

It sounds to me like you're low on coolant. When you checked the coolant level, did you actually open the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is full? The plastic tank you generally add coolant too is actually an 'overflow' or 'reserve' tank. There is a hose that runs from that tank to the top of the radiator so if the radiator gets low on coolant, more coolant -should- run in from the overflow tank. However in practice this does not always work. I have a Jeep that leaks coolant and experiences this exact same problem. Coolant will not run from the reserve tank into the radiator because the hose is plugged up, and whenever the radiator gets low on coolant the temp gauge will go real high and then drop, and the heater doesn't work well. This is because the cooling system of your car is supposed to be a closed system, full of coolant and no air. When coolant leaks out, the space it used to occupy is now occupied by air, which does not transfer heat well. When 'air' is passing through your cooling system, no heat can be transferred from your engine to the heater and radiator, resulting in a hot engine and no heat at the heater. Then when a pocket of water passes through the system, the temperature gauge quickly falls as the water absorbs the heat from the engine. The hot water that cools the engine is where the heater gets it's heat from as well, so when water passes through the heater core, the heater works, but when it's filled with air, it doesn't.