I have a Nikon Optiphot-2 bright field and phase microscope. I have been searching for a compatible 2x objective lens that works with the Optiphot-2. I tried several Nikon 2x lens with 160 tuble length but they do not work. I do not have a manual of the Optipjot-2. If any one knows THE TUBE LENGTH OF THE OPTIPHOT-2 MICROSCOPE, please let me know. Also if ANY ONE KNOW WHICH NIKON 2X OBJECTIVE LENS MODEL IS COMPLATIBLE WITH THE OPTIPHOT-2, PLEASE let me know. Does any one have a copy of the MANUAL for OPTIPHOT-2 microscope? I would like to have a duplicate copy of such a manual and I will pay for the cost of duplication and mailing service. Thank you very much for your assistance.
The Nikon Optiphot 2 tube length is 160 mm DIN finite. It is a 1990 vintage microscope. Any objective lens with the standard RMS thread, -160 engraved on it will work. It will not work with other brnads with the infinity symbol engraved on it or infinity tube length Nikon 200 mm, CFI60 objectives for 2000 vintage to present microscopes. - Lawsen Lew
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Email nikoninstruments(at)nikon(dot)net with some pictures of your microscope and I'll see if we can ID it. Make sure the pics are bright enough and in focus and at a wide enough angle to get a good look at it. Nikon Instruments Microscopes and Imaging Systems
Open the field and the condenser diaphragms all the way. bring your object into focus then insert the telescope eyepiece which lets you see both phase rings. Bring both the phase rings into focus. Then move the phase ring of the condenser's side until it is lined with the phase ring of the objective and no light gets passed up. Inspect your object now with your regular eyepieces. That is it. Have fun.
In the Optiphot there are two small grub screws under the left hand side of the condenser column. Once loosened the metal housing of the pinion can by pulled or pushed out and the new one inserted. You may need a small mirror to see the screws due to their hidden position. You can then replace the pinion in which the black nylon gear will have broken
most objectives and eyepieces are interchangeable between models of microscropes. There are however a few things that you need to be aware of. On the out side of the objective there are number written on them that look similiar to this:
There maybe more writing then that, but usually at the very least you get this. The first part (100x) is the objective magnification, the 1.25 is the Numerical aperture, the 160 is the tube length (in mm), and the .17 is the cover-slip correctness. What you are most concerned with is the mechanical tube length. There are 3 common ones, 160, 210, and infinity. It is very important that you get an objective with the right tube mechanical tube length, or there is a very good chance it won't work. If you are working with slides, then it is a good idea to get one that is cover slip corrected, otherwise most of the other information is only real important to very specific applications.The other key variable is the threading. Most microscopes use what is call a standard RMS threading, however many educational or high end objectives will not have this.
The eyepieces are pretty straight forward. You just need to find one that that has an outside diameter of the sleeve that will fit the inside diameter of the tube it is going into. Beyond that, most eyepieces are pretty interchangeable amongst brands.
There are a few things that could cause a shadow in the field of view.
First if the condenser is not centered, this can create a crescent shaped shadow and rob your image of light. Center the condenser and raise it to within about a 16th of an inch from the top of the stage.
Second, the slider on the head which diverts light from the eyepieces to the camera must be fully engaged to the "camera" position
Third, make sure that the diaphragm on the condenser is not closed too far. There is an adjustment ring for this. Set it to 70-80% of the numerical aperture of the objective you are using.
Fourth: if there is a "swing out" condenser lens you will need it completely in or out depending on the objective you are using. for 2x-5x you need the swing out condenser lens completely out of the light path. For objectives 10x and up you need the swing out condenser lens completely in and centered in the light path.
If these things are properly adjusted you should not have a shadow in the field of view. If you still have a problem, let me know.
This might be sign of trouble, because the Nylon gears inside might be worn out. I did not noticed a tension ring on Optiphot 1 or 2. The Nikon S and Metaphot from 1960s to 1976 have Nylon gears with tension ring adjustments.
You should start by changing the bulb, even though it looks ok chances are that it's no longer working. Do the same with the fuse if the new bulb doesn't work.
Test that power is reaching the socket with a voltmeter or a multimeter so ensure the wiring is ok with the new fuse. If no power is reaching the bulb socket, then you will need to check the wiring every step of the way.