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Where is the defrost timer on a LG frig Model LBC22520SW

The defrost is not working. The defrost heater ohm reading on 1K is infinity, the ohm reading on 10K is 1, the reading on 100K is 3 ohms. The Sensor-and-fuse combo both show continuity. I can't find the defrost timer to turn it on to check if 110 volts is getting to the heater plug.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Need photo of Defrost Switch or Sensor

moz-screenshot.jpg34f1f3f.jpg
Unit needs to be cold when you test. it closes at around 20 or 30 degrees F and opens around 55 deg F

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

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SOURCE: Evaporator coils iceing over; warminhg on frig side of model 106....

As I said; the fan and compressor run fine but I cannot find the defrost timer. Is it integrated into the control board.
Thanks

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost heater wont heat up

so you seems to have done your homework. all the inputs are great.

you said you have 206 volts at the heater connection prior to connecting the heater.
and would become zero once the heater is connected.

so you have a loose connection from the timer to the defrost thermostat then to the heater.
does the defrost thermostat you are talking about is the same as the bi-metal that we used to refer in our technical language.( it is the part that would open up as the temperature inside the evaporator rises to a certain level.)

because if you are referring to the fridge thermostat which controls the compressor. ( this is also 0 ohm when closed), then the problem could be in your bi-metal.
this is the part in between the timer and the defrost heater.
it terminates the power once the temperature of the evaporator coil is about 5 degrees Celsius.
here's what you can do.

run the fridge for a day ( so that we would be sure that the bi-metal is close) then put the heater in place, turn the timer to heating mode by turning it slowly.

then place the test leads across the bi-metal, if you can measure 220 volts then that is the problem.

it is not shorting out even with a freezing temperature. you can further test the system by putting a jumper wire between the bi-metal and you heater should be heating up now.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: GE TBX18BLJ --Freezer comp frosts/ices up. Defrost

The next step would be to unplug the refrigerator and remove the rear panel and defrost so that you can unplug the defrost heater on one end and check the continuity. 305175 Defrost Heater and defrost thermostat Part number 3489. If you change the defrost heater you should also change the defrost thermostat. Let me know the results. Remember above 60 degrees the defrost thermostat will show open with your OHM meter. Sea Breeze

http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

2f37bab.jpg b6cf514.jpg

Posted on Aug 15, 2009

omaharox
  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: I a LG 22860sw refrigerator ERROR CODE DH

The main Pcb as well as the defrost thermistor are in the circuit as well.
The thermister is attached to the evaporator with wire ties and connects to the roof of the freezer behind the fan assy.

I have seen the thermister connector pull out of the connector at the top of the freezer beacuse the wires were to tight. Remove some of the wire ties and reinstall the connector.

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

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1 Answer

I have a Maytag PTB1953DR refrigerator, would the timer be shot again?


The timer should last a lot longer than that, but I have received bad ones right out of the box. Depending on model year, the full current of the compressor and the defrost heater are present in the defrost timer contacts. The defrost heater should be checked with a volt-ohm meter if continued icing takes place. The defrost heater will have a positive ohm reading if it is okay. If the meter reads infinity or 0.0 ohms, the heater is bad.

Apr 23, 2015 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

CHECK DEFROST SYSTEM PARTS


You can use an ohm meter to check the heater and thermostat, but you will have to disconnect them before ohming them out. You should get low resistanc readings, if you get an open (infinity) reading, they are diffently bad.
Unfortunately, the other two can't be checked without special test gear that is pretty expensive. My suggestion is to check the thermostat and heater and if those aren't the problem. GO to a known appliance repair shop and have them check the other two. They will probably charge you about 20 bucks to check them for you.
Hope this helps!
Hal aka ImJustAvg

Jan 30, 2012 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer keeps frosting over and then the refrigerator gets warm. I unplug it and let it thaw for a day and it works great for 2 or 3 days and then it frosts up again. we have a factory installed ice maker...


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-25371832104/0582/0166000/R0202504/00004?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=25371832104

You have a problem with your defrost system which is made up of the defrost heater (item #14); defrost thermostat (item #21)

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-25371832104/0582/0166000/R0202504/00003

And the defrost timer (item #23).

Although the defrost timer is the most likely suspect you need to rule out the other two. If you have an ohm meter you can test the defrost heater and defrost capacitor. Continuity = good Open/infinity reading = bad

Aug 13, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My LG side by side frig. is not cold enough


Hello,

The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.

Good luck


Aug 01, 2010 | LG Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a magic chef fridge that the coil keeps


Good day,
The defrost system is made up of 3 parts. The timer, the defrost thermostat and the main heater.
The most common item to fail is the defrost thermostat which is clipped to the top of the cooling coil, located behind the rear panel in the feezer problem. It looks like this.

2cae7e6.jpg
It can be tested with an ohm meter and should read zero ohms.
It must be tested while still cold. If allowed to warm up the test will fail. If it tests O.K. then the only item left is the main heater.
It will usually test at less than 35 ohms. If it test infinity, then it will have to be replaced.
It may be a single heater or a set of 2 but without the model number I cannot give you that information.

Jul 06, 2010 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a sub zero model 532 and the freezer does not work. I have turned the defrost timer to reset. I have also removed the control and checked find with ohm meter switch is recognized when switching off...


we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.


this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link.... http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-Parts?s=b3a3c221

Feb 25, 2010 | Sub-Zero 30.1 cu. ft. Cabinet Depth...

1 Answer

Freezer on my hotpoint refrigde is freezing up while the other side is warming up,have already replaced the defost timer 4 weeks ago.


Good day,
New parts can fail, but to test your timer, turn the shaft on the timer clockwise until the machine shuts off. Leave it like that. The timer can be many different time cycles, so just wait up thru 45 minutes.
It should turn the machine back on. If so, the timer is O.K.
There are 2 other parts to the defrost system. The main heater/heaters, and the defrost limit thermostat.

If one heater system, it will be mounted on the bottom of the evaporator coil, behind the rear panel in the freezer section.
If it's a two heater model, there will be one heater on the bottom, and the second half way up.

You will need an ohm meter to test them. They should not exceed 35 ohms. If they read infinity (no resistance) then replace.

The last part is a defrost thermostat. It is a round about an inch in diameter mounted on the top of the coil.
It should read zero ohms resistance, but can only be tested if the machine has been running and the thermostat no warmer than 20 degrees.

If the heater/heaters are bad, replace them but also replace the limit thermostat as a package.
If the limit thermostat is the only bad part, replace it only.

Thank you for using FixYa

Feb 06, 2010 | Hotpoint Refrigerators

2 Answers

KitchenAid KSRS25QXAL10 Side-by-Side (1992) won't defrost


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

TESTING YOUR DEFROST TIMER MODULE


To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically. Test the timer for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.

Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it should be replaced.

Nov 19, 2009 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

2 Answers

Frig Freezing Up/Frig side warming up Maytag MSD2454GRW


I think your voltage is fine I just believe the defrost timer is worn out and not cycling properly resulting in less defrost and higher refrigerator temperatures. Thanks, sea Breeze

Aug 26, 2009 | Maytag MSD2454G Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Our GE profile freezer/frig - frig side has ice on coils


Sounds like the automatic defrost system is not working. The usual problem is the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, or the defrost timer. If any of these parts are bad, it will not defrost.

Aug 21, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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