We are having the exact same problem with this part! Our oven is a S301T, but it still has the same part number for the tail membrane (touch control).
In FINALLY contacting someone at Thermador we were able to find the following information which might aid you. The part is manufactured by Bosch and according to Appliance Pros.com, the numbers:
Part Number 415191 Manufacturer's number (Bosch) Part number AP2832583 which replaces the part number originally numbered 14-38-680.
Don't know if this will help....it hasn't helped me so far. Thermador suggested that we go to a site named OBSOLETEAPPLIANCEPARTS.com. This site seems to be really messed up because you have to call and leave a message as the site is under construction!
I'm so darn frustrated that I'll never buy a Thermador product again (even thought they are great when they work) Good luck!!
Here's what I did. An IT engineer at work came up with the solution. Get an old computer ribbon cable, the kind that you would use to attach an internal hard drive, they're very common. Cut off both end connectors. Pull the wires apart about an inch. Strip and tin with solder about 1/16" of wire on each. I think there were 17 wires needed. The LCD board will pop out of the holder. You'll solder one wire to each of the connections on the opposite side of the tail membrane connector, where the connector goes thru the board. Before you try and solder to these connections, take your pencil point soldering iron and heat up each connection as you apply the tiniest bit of new solder. Now just tack each wire of the computer ribbon cable to the under side of the connector. Once done you'll have to wrap it around the outside of the board and snap it back in the holder. On the touch panel you do the same thing. Just solder the other end of the ribbon cable to the connector on the back of the touch panel. I had to do it twice, because the first time I did it backwards. It's easy to get it wrong because you're coming from underneath the board where it used to come off the top of the board and you have to make note of how the tail membrane would fit in the original connector. This may sound difficult but if you know how to solder or someone can teach you it's not that difficult. It beats buying a new oven.
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First please get the full model number of the range. Kenmore products are made by other manufacturers and the error codes will depend on the manufacturer.
Most likely, you have a Frigidaire range (for example a 970. model). Then the F14 code could indicate a problem with the P12 ribbon cable connector tail, a bad EOC (control unit), or touchpad. First try disconnecting and reconnecting that cable. Next the EOC should be replaced. Finally the touchpad should be replaced.
If this is a brand new range, contact Sears to get a repair person to fix the range. If you bought it used, see the above possible solutions.
SAFETY FIRST, Have the unit checked for issues, it not worth the home over a leak. Unless you know about this unit, have your gas company inspect for leaks and supply issues. If you leak is a connection issue, they will advise how to repair, if internal, it should be check right away or prior to using again.
I had seen a simple loose connection cause a lot of damage.
Please be safety, I would be glad to assist you further if needed.
Possible there is short in the oven heater. You will need to check individually the circuit for short or leak into the circuit. Also if the trip is on a ELCB then this is due to an earth leak. Please check if there is leak on the wiring or a possible poor earth/ground connection at the outlet.
Hi, Here below we have aprocedure to try to see if you can save the ERC. F1 touch pad / ERC test This simple test will help determine whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the touch pad is defective when F1 error code is present.
Note: Some models incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single assembly, in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC (Clock).
Warning: If you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or making this repair, please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
1. Disconnect power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power off to the range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power to the range has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing. 2. Gain access inside the control panel. 3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from the ERC. 4. Make sure there are no lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short when power is turned back on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was. 5. Turn the power back on. 6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually accompanied by a beeping sound). 7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it does not, replace the touch pad.
It sounds like you better be careful for starters. I also suggest your handyman sticks to painting. In older homes a 208/240 circuit onlt had three wires. New construction and remodeling requires a four wire system. Per code, a black wire is 120VAC, and a red wire is 120VAC. In a 240VAC circuit they would be called L-1 and L-2 respectively. In order to provide 240VAC they must be on seperate phases. The bare wire in your bundle is the ground wire and is at the same potential as neutral, or the white wire in current four wire systems. If you know how to use an electrical test meter, you should show 120VAC from black to bare copper, 120VAC from red to bare copper, and 240VAC from black to red. If this is not the case, I strongly suggest you have an electrician come in and take care of it in your breaker panel. *****Electricity is nothing to fool around with if you are not absolutely sure you know what you are doing. A loose connection, a wrong connection can result in fire, serious injury or death. It's worth a service call to a licensed electrician or qualified appliance service technician to give you peace of mind, and years of safe use of your new cooktop.
I believe that if you look on the name plate for the unit , it says that you will need a 30 amp, 220 volt supply circuit . This would be a two pole , 30 amp breaker , a run of # 10-3 cable with ground, and a junction box at the stove top location to make the splices. If you are going to use a plug connection, then a 30 amp 4 wire dryer outlet will give you the connection you need .
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Older 3 wire connectors where Wht=Neutral Ground Return, Red=One Phase Hot, Blk=Second Phase Hot, of 220VAC stove connections.
Newer Electrical code standard has a forth wire that is bare copper for a separate safety ground return. I suggest you but a 4 wire pig tail cable for your stove top, available at Depot or Lowes, and connect 3 wires of this 4 wire cable just like the 3 wires are now connected. The 4th bare copper safety is attached to any metal part of the stove. Find a screw you can loosen to wrap it around and tighten.
the usual method is to link the 3 live terminals together and the 2 neutrals. the links normally come with the hob and are often already in position. make sure the links are present and tightened down. it then doesnt matter which of the three you connect live to and same for neutral you should connect the double oven on a separate circuit with its own isolator