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Radiator furthest from boiler not getting completely hot only flow pipe hot , return pipe cold

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This could be as a result of air in the radiator, most radiators have an air expulsion screw at the top of the radiator one one side. You need to undo this screw and release the air until some water appears then close the screw and turn on the heating to test. NB Do not attempt this with the heating on. Also you may need a special type of key to open the screw these are available from diy stores or plumbers merchants.




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Posted on Oct 22, 2008

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Does the boiler thermostat control the heat of the radiators as well as the hot water temperature? Does the thermostat control the water temperature and the pump - as our pump seems to be on all the...


There should be a control called an aquastat that regulates the temperature of the boiler. The thermostat will turn on the circulator to start the flow of water through the radiators. If the water coming back from the radiators is very cold, a control will shut off the circulator until the boiler can come up to a predetermined temperature then start the flow of water again. If you have a tankless coil for domestic hot water, you now have a triple aquastat that maintains the temperature for domestic as well as the boiler temp. So yes the boiler thermostat (aquastat) does control the heat of the radiators and domestic hot water. No the pump is regulated by your house thermostat. You should take an amp draw on the boiler and componants to find out what is drawing more electricity than it should and popping your fuse.

Feb 19, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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My boiler heating is working but hot water is not coming. i want to know how to set hot water 24 hours 7 days


As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.

Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.

Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.

Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..

I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.

Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.

My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.

Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.

Feb 05, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My radiators are hot at the top and cold at the bottom what would cause this


Hi,
That would depend on how they are piped and what the water flow through them is....
In short... either they are piped incorrectly or the water flow is not fast enough through the radiator...

heatman101

Feb 03, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Britony 80 combi boiler G31 propane, gas flow rate =0.124877 cubic meters per hour, inlet pressure 37mbar, room sealed flu Manufactures recommended Co2 & NFGT unknown, cold water from hot tap when...


You gave a good description of the boiler--
now we need to hear the clues you have observed, as it fires (or fails to fire-- or what?)

Or as the water flow-- or doesn't flow?
As the cold water enters-- what does the flame do?
And does the flow rate reduce as the flow gets to the divert er valve?

How old is the boiler?-- and have we been using HARD water?
(Any water softener in the circuit to remove calcium and magnesium, etc.?)
Do you suspect a scaling problem in the interior parts?
If so-- can you circuit an acid thru the innards, to clean up the scale?

Please comment on what happens when water and gas flow-- so we can help you get to the next step.

Mack B

Jan 17, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

The hot water in my flat is supplied by a communial boiler. Recently, the water in the cylinder was not heating the water as efficiently as it should; the pipe flow from the boiler is very hot, the...


Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. If the valve is built up with calcium and other water sediments it may seem like the valve is open with very minimal water flowing through the valve Have them replace the vvalve.

Oct 10, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have just moved one radiator in my bungalow from one wall to an adjacent wall. I used the same flow and return pipework I only had to shorten it. I turned the water off and drained the rad and vertical...


When you reinstalled the radiator did you install a purge vent on it? If not, then there is a good chance that the radiator is air bound, and therefore will not fill.
If you have a loop system, without venturi tee's then you should be able to purge the system at the boiler by building pressure to around 25 psi, then releasing through the bleed valve.
If you have venturi tees then i would suggest installing a bleeder valve at the radiator.
As a note of precaution, and no offense, but ensure that you connected the baseboard to the correct sides of radiator. This could be the cause of many a headache. Hope this helps

Aug 10, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I'm a new plumber. I was asked to restart a burnham gas fired steam boiler in a fire damaged apartment. The boiler was drained last winter along with the radiators but was not winerized. I am their plumber...


1. You need to fill the entire system with water before you fire it, boiler AND radiators... Then, you would normally vent as much of the trapped air in the system as you could... It's not like you are only going to fill just the boiler and then pump that water through the pipes.

There is a temp setting on the boiler, but I don't think that's a solution. Remember that the water in the system is going to begin circulating as soon as you start the boiler. So, it will start circulating when it's cold, and then gradually warm up.

Your problem is not the sudden rush of hot water, it's going to be filling the system in the first place, and getting the boiler started before the system freezes up ...

I don't really have any suggestions for you though, other than perhaps renting one of those construction heaters ... and bring the building temp up a bit. But there's certain dangers associated with them too... Carbon Monoxide for one, fire is another (if used improperly).

Just thought of something: Fill the system with glycol based anti-freeze solution that's designed for heating systems. That oughta do it...

I'm guessing there's not a functioning water heater either at this point, is there ? If there was, you could possibly rig something up to fill the system with lukewarm water, and fire it before it freezes up.

2. You don't have a lot of choice. You have to fill the system, fire the boiler & wait.
It is going to take a long time to get the system up to temperature. Instant circulation is a double edged sword. The upside is you get a little bit of heat into the water & have it moving making freezing less likely. The downside is, it's hard on the boiler with that much cold water coming back you are likely to have condensation.

Apr 22, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Hi,i have a vaillant turbomax combi boiler,the radiator side is working well but when running hot tap the boiler kicks in for about 5 seconds ,hot water starts to flow then boiler cuts out,water runs cold...


Which turbomax, as there a two different models. The more modern one, with the brass CPL diverter valve, located at the front left of the boiler, was very prone sticking & jamming, this would restrict flow through the hot water circuit in the boiler, and cause cycling. Vaillant actually modified the diverter. You can identify, if it is the old type, as there is a very small hole in the middle of the diverter on the old ones, probable no more than 1mm-2mm wide. The modfied one, is much bigger approx 5mm wide. If old type, replace as this usally sorts the problem

Nov 23, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Vaillant Ecotec combi boiler - radiators working but no hot water flow to taps


David,

The fact that you're getting a little burst of domestic hot water suggests that the boiler is capable of circulating hot primary loop water through the heat exchanger, but doesn't necessarily do so when it needs to.

What seems to be lacking is a recognition that domestic hot water is now being drawn off, and that the boiler needs to fire up and divert the primary flow through the heat exchanger.

A good place to start might be the flow switch (usually in the bottom of the boiler, where the cold water supply comes in) or the electrical connections to it.

A.

Oct 05, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

F20 error on vaillant eco28 combi boiler


F20 is a flow sensor error. Can be due to a defective sensor/ not correctly fitted, or you may have poor circulation, a big difference in flow and return temperatures, can sometimes make the boiler think it has a defective sensor, check good circulation through system, or if you have thermostatic radaiators valves on every single radiator, take 1 head off, as if you dont have a bypass fitted, it needs a radiator as a bypass circuit

Aug 30, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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