Question about Whirlpool GHW9150 Front Load Washer
These fault codes are caused by a failure of the main control circuit board (the brain of the washer), this is the board that is behind the washer control buttons.
Posted on Feb 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
DL error stands for Door Lock.Follow the instructions to repair yourself.
If your door hasn't yet locked and will not lock simply press cancel and try again.
If this will not work and the cycle still will not start up then skip to step three.
If your door is already locked and you get an "F" error press and hold the cancel button and select drain/spin.If this still doesn't work and your clothes are trapped inside do not resort to getting out the crow bar and a sledge hammer.You can manually unlock the door by following these steps:
- Unplug washer or disconnect power.
- Remove the lower kick panel.
- Reach up along the inside of the front and locate the bottom of the door switch/lock unit.
- Located on the bottom of the door switch/lock unit is a teardrop shaped tab.
- Gently pull the tab down about a 1/4˝ or until a click is heard.
- The door may be now opened.
If your door fails to lock and your cycle will not start moderately but forcefully hit the back right hand corner of the washer with your fist.You may have to do this a couple of times,but you should hear the locking mechanism click so your washer is now locked.
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
Fdl is a door latch error code. F11 is a serial communications error that is associated with either the door latch, central control unit (main computer) or associated wiring. Since you can hear a "click", and the washer works intermittently I would suspect you have a bad door latch assembly. Just to be sure you will need to check all your wiring connections going to the central control unit and door latch. To access follow these steps:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the three 7mm screws holding the top panel on. They are located along the top edge in the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed the top panel will slide back then lift up.
3. The Central Control Unit (CCU) is located in the central rear of the washer. You can't miss it. Make sure all the connections are plugged in snugly. The door latch connections are located behind the front panel on the right hand side. Check ONE connection at a time.
After checking wiring harness, run systems diagnostics test by performing the following:
Select DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN, followed by pushing any button under OPTIONS 4 times. If entered correctly the display will read "C00" and you should hear the door latch "click". The diagnostics will run through a series of tests to include FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN and SPIN functions. Since the door latch is the first step of the diagnostic sequence, the tests will not progress if the door latch fails. You can push PAUSE/CANCEL any time to end diagnostics. Run this test several times. If anything fails you will get an "F" code in the display window. If the tests all pass, the unit will shut off, followed by an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light indicator will be lit. If you get successful results, then you know you probably had a loose wire somewhere. If the test fails, I would attempt to replace the door latch before the CCU. The latch costs considerably less. The CCU can cost as much as $220 depending on where you get it.
If you decide to replace the door latch follow these steps:
1. Make sure washer is unplugged.
2. Locate the wire hoop retaining ring that holds the rubber door boot on. It will be located behind the front edge of the rubber where it meets the door frame.
3. Locate the tension spring at the 6 o'clock position and stretch the spring apart to release the hoop. Pull the hoop from the bottom first and remove from the door boot.
4. Pull door boot from door opening and fold back inside wash tub so you can access behind the front panel of the washer.
5. Remove the three torx screws that hold the door latch on.
6. The door latch is seated in a plastic retainer bracket. Reach in behind front panel and carefully remove the door latch from this bracket so you can access the wire connectors.
7. Remove wire connectors.
8. Re-install wire connectors and latch in reverse order of how it was removed.
9. Re-install door boot, ensuring it seated properly all the way around the door frame opening.
10. Re-insert wire retaining hoop in the groove behind the front lip of the rubber door boot starting at the 12 o'clock position and working your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (You may need a second set of hands for this part). While holding downward tension on the hoop to keep it seated, stretch the spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop back into place at the bottom of the door opening.
Run system diagnostics again to see if the latch functions properly and all tests pass. Good luck to you and I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 06, 2009
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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