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86870100 Kenmore dryer won't heat but goes through cycle

Won't heat up even after replacing the heat element

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  • Diane Bassett Feb 07, 2012

    Is there a reset button

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  • 78 Answers

Dear Diane Bassett,

I recently had a problem of the exact nature. The answer to your second question is yes, these are awkwardly located at the rear of the machine, so you will have to pull the dryer out from its recess. isolate the dryer from the mains for an hour or so, press the reset button in for a few seconds and you should be fine.

If that doesnt solve the issue, then your thermostat is up dawsons' creek without a paddle.

Anway I hope this is the fixya for you and I look forward to hearing how you get on with this.

Yours sincerely

Ouszen

Posted on Feb 07, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

TheMobilian
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SOURCE: kenmore dryer model #86870100 runs but no heat

this kit mounts on the heater element chamber. The small one will be open. The big one failed also because it is rated to shut down @250°F. The little guy is rated at 300°F. NOTE: when this limit fails it is a sure sign of a blockage of lint somewhere.8e8a912.jpg

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer model # 110.63102100

Hi Ludwig11711...
Here is a few more things to check...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.

If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me

Posted on Jun 04, 2011

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

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SOURCE: electric dryer won"t heat. Kenmore Heavy Duty 70

are you getting power down to the heater?why did you change all those other parts?you need to unplug the dryer,with a meter read out all the parts you changed out again but first make sure you have 240 volts coming to the machine,you can check it at the cord in the back,touch the white to the red,you should have 110 volts or 120,then go from the white to the black and you should have the same thing,if not the problem is in the house,if it's correct make sure you have power coming down to the heater,you could have a bad timer or a burnt wire,when you check the other parts unplug the dryer and whatever part you check at least one wire has to be removed,do this and you'll find your problem,if you did this first you wouldn't of bought all those parts.let me know what you find

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Gas Dryer 11072212101 won't heat. we

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101.,/
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Posted on Aug 13, 2011

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http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

One final note on these: if you find your thermal fuse\cut off (or element) open, before replacing it, be sure to check the airflow out your dryer's vent system. Even though these devices do 'wear out' with age, poor airflow's the #1 cause of failure of these devices, and if your vent's partially clogged, a new thermal won't last very long, but will do its job again, and leave you 'cold' (a new element won't last long if the vent's clogged, either).

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that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

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