Question about Refrigerators
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your fridge has seperate evaporators for the fridge and freezer sections with a variable speed compressor.
The diagnostic test is telling you that the main control board (PCB) is not communicating properly with the display board where you set the temps, or it is not sensing the condition of the fridge properly, either the fan speed or thermistor resistence.
I do not have a manual in front of me so I can't guide you directly, but look in the manual you have and find the tests for the fridge thermistor and fridge fan motor and follow those instructions. If they are correct according to the manual, you probably need to replace the PCB (PBA in parts diagram) located behind the machine inside the compressor compartment, or possibly the user control board which is the the display board that you use to set the temps.
The service manual you have should give tests for the display board as well, but my bet is the main board in the back.
Posted on Dec 08, 2007
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
I attempted to locate an answer to resolve the issue for you, but you have not provided me with enough information to access my service database.
Below is a link to common solutions that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
It provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Once you access the site you will be able to navigate numerous pages of information on your product. You will need to enter your model number to access your product information.
Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint. I will post the most common solutions to your complaint. For more specific information please refer to the tip and/or link provided.
First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, read on.
Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet.
If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these:
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
SOURCE: I have water pooling in
The drain in the freezer behind back lower panel
needs opening. You can see it at the bottom of the back panel
underneath the evaporator coils. (The cold coils)
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
When the defrost melts the water it goes down the drain
If the drain is clogged with Ice or ? it overflows into the ref.
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
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Posted on Jul 29, 2011
You have a problem with the defrost system. Try disconnecting power overnight and allowing fridge to defrost. The problem will not occur immediately after defrosting, but will probably restart after few days, when the evaporator coils freeze again. In that case the defrost system must be tested and repaired.
The defrost system comprises defrost thermostat, heater, defrost control and fan. The parts that fail more commonly are thermostat and heater. Both parts are located behind freezer firewall and tested reading impedance with a multimeter.
A test on the defrost system can be done by performing a complete defrost manually (remove food and leave power disconnected overnight). If the fridge restarts working after defrost, then problem was the defrost system. In that case the problem may return after few days or weeks, meaning that one part in the defrost system is faulty.Parts must be tested.
If the defrost makes no change, then there is a different problem. The damper ventilation system , the temperature control or the refrigerant gas pressure may be the problem. When the problem is one of these faults you get the compressor is running regularly, but will stay on most of the time.
If the motor is humming and clicking most of the time, but not properly starting, then the problem is usually the starter relay/capacitor. Relay and capacitors can be replaced to fix the problem.
Here a tip explaining how to deal with a similar problem on a different fridge model: Fridge not cooling. Procedure is similar on your model.
You can find parts and diagrams for most appliances here: Where do I find parts and diagrams for my appliance?
Posted on Aug 08, 2011
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