I have a goodman/janitrol furnace model number gmp075-3. when the t-stat calls for heat the fan turns on and the status light flashes 5 times, which is false flame sensed. i have replace the ignighter and jumped all the the sensors and it still flashes 5 times. any suggestions?
I Also have the same and other problems with my furnace model # GDS80703AXBB. First the LED kept blinking 4 times and I too jumped the primary limit, that didn't kelp. After several attemps I moved the wires going to the circut board and everything starting working again. After a week It stopped working again, so I pulled the plug out of the circut board checked all wires for for a bad connection plugged it back in. Now the LED blinks 6 times again I move the wires. Then the LED blinks 3 times. Then the transformer burns out. I have burned out 2 transformers and I have ordered a new circut board.
IS it the inducer motor coming on right away, or the blower, becuase if it is the blower than you are out on a high limit, depend on the model goodman puts to manual resets on each side of the blower motor. please give more info
Some those codes represent other things as well,,,when u say fan do you mean the combustion fan if so then its not making the switch there is round switch on the side with rubber hose to it,,jumper it if runs try cleaning out the hole on the combustion fan motor,,,if not need to replace the switch assuming the fan is pulling enough vacum,,,not much info to go on,,,need more to diagnose 100% good luck.
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Need your model # to check the codes but, this coming back on after turning the t-stat off is rare. You may have been in a lockout and the furnace re-started. Some furnaces try to start three times , then lock out. Time out, then re-start. The codes should be on your furnace blower door. Write back with this info and i could help.
Hi, first of all you need to get a hand full of 5 amp auto type fuses and install one on the hot leg of the 24 volt secondary side of the transformer. Just use 2 female crimp on connectors and put the fuse in the middle of the hot wire. Saves $$$$ on replacing transformers when you have a dead short on the low or high voltage side of any transformer, just a trick of the trade, food for thought. Fuses are much cheaper. On your electric unit, you may not need the common on this to operate the digital stat if it has batteries. This may be your dead short. On the Janitrol condenser, the red is your 24v as you no. They are using blue in place of yellow for cooling. Red is hot, W is heat, G for fan, and blue is cooling on this Janitrol. Keep in mind you are connecting to a heat-pump also, so make sure the wiring is correct. Are you installing this for secondary Heat?? More then likely, the blue common you have added is the dead short as the janitrol uses the blue for a cooling relay in place of yellow. Anyway, use the 5 amp fuse, trick of the trade to save on the transformers. Please keep me posted, as I know know you have this under control. Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor. Good Luck!
two things to try first to get you pointed in the right direction. First disconnect the R or RH wire from the T-Stat. If the furnace turns off (Stops firing w/ fan to turn offabout 90 sec. later) then you more than likely have a bad Thermistat. If it continues to run Pull the R wire from the Furnace circuit board. put door back on furnace if it stops you have a short in the wire. Still Running? Most likely a bad curcuit board. Hope this helps.
double check your wiring. R terminal on the furnace will provide 24 volts to the t-stat. W terminal in the t-stat will send 24 volts back to the furnace W terminal to turn on the heat. G terminal in the t-stat will send power to the G terminal in the furnace when the t-stat is switched to fan on. Y terminal in the t-stat will send power to the Y terminal in the furnace which in turn will send 24 volts to the A/C outside. The C terminal in the furnace should be connected to the c terminal in the A/C outside as well as to the T-stat. Check the fuse again
most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.
the pressure switch is closed before the draft motor closes it.the board is telling you that this is not right.pull the wire(either) off of the pressure switch to see if furnace tries to light.if it does,you should replace the pressure switch.
A constant red light (not blinking) indicates that the thermostat is not calling for heat. Of course you know it is but just to be safe, jump out R and W on the board. If it continues to do the same as you indicated, replace the board.