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Kenmore model # 417.94872302 won,t agatate

Once it fills up with water it won't agatate

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: model 417 44152400 lights on wont spin or drain

check the lid switch

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore front load washer, model 417

Washer dryers often have cold water valves with 3 separate solenoids. One for the main wash and rinses (which is clearly ok) and one for the condition rinse (to take the fabric conditioner down) which is probably ok too, and the 3rd one is for the dryer. It's possible this 3rd solenoid has failed.

Washer dryers need on a steady trickle of cold water running into the condenser chamber to convert the steam into water, which then gets pumped down the drain.

e10 means that there is a problem with the water supply.
a condenser dryer needs cold water to operate properly. the e10 code will appear if:
1. the water is turned off
2.the water pressure is too low.
3.the solenoid valve is open circuit
4.there is a problem with the pressure switch (least likely)

Cold valve is at the end of blue inlet pipe remove lid and you will see it.

f E10 is only appearing when trying to dry, the problem almost certainly is the condenser valve solenoid open circuit. The green solenoid on the inlet valve. Should read about 4000 ohms.

My money would be on the solenoid coil being open circuit. The coil can be canabalised from most valves although you may have to modify the connections. For simpler repairs - contact Zanussi and get the entire triple inlet water valve to swap out.


http://www.zanussi-electrolux.co.uk/files/unitedkingdom_english/0-999/zanussi%20error%20codes.swf


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Posted on Sep 18, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore stack washer/dryer combo. model #

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: front loader won't spin and

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Posted on May 15, 2011

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore 700 washer model

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on the info you provided in your post, it quite likely is the drive coupling that has broken...it is very common, that would indeed explain the noise appearing to be from the motor. (possibly a jammed pump too, but you'd know if it drains or not by advancing the timer)

**Unplug the washer from it's source/the wall before performing any service to the unit...safety first**

To inspect the drive coupling to confirm it is broken or not, you can lean the washer back (careful of the hoses) to allow you to visually inspect it or remove the cabinet completely...it is fairly straight forward and can be done even by a novice "handyman/person"

Part number is 285753A and will look like this image....

macmarkus_631.jpg
I've attached a link here that will provide the part availability and clear instructions to replace the coupling but also help describe the removal of the cabinet or to just inspect everything thoroughly. Once there scroll to the bottom of the page.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Coupling/1195967

Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll be glad to help in any manner I can. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on Jun 08, 2011

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Model #110.49962600 water fills agates will not spin


And the code is!? Gee I hate when that happens! OK look at these:
F1--Water supply/low water fill.
o 1. Check water supply to machine.
o 2. Replace water inlet valve.
• F2--Water level too high.
o 1. Plugged/Bad water pump.
o 2. Faulty water valve.
• F3--Pump problem.
o 1. Check pump trap and clean.
I go with the last one..Common, then the pump is bad then the valve. But You didn't tell Us!

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This is almost certainly a simple problem with your empty pump filter being clogged. The empty cycle is timed and if it can't get all the water out in time because the filter is blocked and slowing the empty down, then it will fail safe and won't step on to the final spin cycle with excess water in the drum.
You need to locate and clean the filter. Depending on the model (not familiar which with the model you mention) there is probably a round filter cap on the front of the machine at the bottom (It may be behind a small door or hidden behind a clip on panel on the bottom) Many models of this design also have a small hose to the right of the filter cap that you can pull out, remove a plug from and drain off any water in the filter before you remove the filter and get your floor wet, so take a look for this before you remove the filter and get soaked.

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