Trying to wire a 3 wire dryer from panel box to dryer plug
I have a 3 wire plug and live in an older house. i have a black wire a white wire and a ground wire. i need someone to explain in a little detail what steps and which wire goes where in panel box and on dryer plug in box.
wife is getting tired of hanging out clothes and tomorrow is her birthday so, i was trying to hook up a used dryer to a house that doesnt have an exsisting dryer outlet. i have run the wire under the house, and have a 3 wire plug box for dryer to plug into. i need help in which wire goes where in panel box and on dryer plug. i have never done this before and dont want to burn house down.. can anyone help me? please..
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: trying to wire a 3 wire dryer from panel box to dryer...
Sounds like you have a 10-2 NM wire. One black, one white, one bare copper. At panel box, black to one hot terminal of breaker or fuse holder (L1). White to other breaker terminal or other fuse holder (L2). Bare copper to the grounded neutral buss bar.
At the dryer the bare neutral goes to the center terminal, the other two go one each on either side, it won't matter which way. Hot Neutral Hot. The neutral terminal of the dryer should have a wire or metal strap connecting it to the dryer frame if you are not using a four wire supply.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I think I can help you but i am a bit confused with the panel box and the junction box. If you want to reply explain the circuit in a bit more detail from the switchboard where the fuse is to the back of the oven. It would also be a good idea to have a voltmeter or test lamps handy. Does the double pole breaker do the Active and Neutral or is it 2 phases going through the breaker. Did the wiring used to be for a full range and now there is only the new oven in its place.
Good day, You wired it correctly. The original setup you had, used a 3 prong, and the white wire could serve as a ground, since all green wires and white wires connect to the same place on the circuit breaker panel. Adding an additional green wire from the cabinet to a grounding location, such as a bare cold water pipe is just added safety. There might be something wrong inside the dryer, but to be safe, you should have the outlet checked, to make sure the white(common wire) didn't lift off ground potential, and you have a true 230 volts from red to black, and 115 from both white to red, and white to black at the outlet.
best bet would to be to buy a plug that matches your receptical.....this is somthing you do not want to monkey with as if not wired right could turn your dryer into a fire hazzard. white to white green to green black to black and the other wire goes to earth ground for like trailer houses and modular homes.
your 2 hots phase wires RED and BLACK need to go to the L1 and L2 terminals,the white goes to the "N" neutral terminal and green or green w/yellow stripe is case safety ground---now at the breaker the RED/BLACK are connected under each one of two screws on the breaker the white goes to the NEUTRAL BUS BAR on the palel surface where all the white wires are already, also the green goes to the neutral bus bar,this only applies if this is the MAIN house power panel, is you wire it to a sub box panel then the neutral must be isolated from the sub panel chassis and ground can still be connected to panels case
YOUR FOUR WIRE CORD IS AS FOLLOWS RED,BLACK WHITE AND GREEN ON YOUR DRYER YOU HAVE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT 123 CONNECTIONS THE TWO OUTERMOST(1 AND 3) ARE HOT LEADS SO HOOK RED TO 1 AND BLACK TO 3 NOW HOOK WHITE TO 2 AND THE GREEN CAN BE ON THE TERMINAL COVER SCREW OR NOT AT ALL BUT BE SURE IT CANNOT COME INTO CONTACT WITH RED OR BLACK
black and red wire, will hook to either end of terminal posts, as long as the white wire connects to the center post. the green wirewill then atach to the cabinet of the unit,( usually a green ground screw just outside the termoal box anyhow!
to put it kindly depending on way you connected wires unit could be damaged,replace pigtail with three wire and outlet to original.outlet wires should be black,red and white. turn breaker off attach white to middle and red,black to sides,"either side is fine".Attach dryer pigtail in same manner with white on white and if plug in and turn breaker on.If there is no operation at this point dryer possibly damaged from previous wiring.Just remember be safe when working with electrical and ask before trying to change things that aren't the same.
While it is preferred to upgrade the receptacle to a 4-prong type (which includes Neutral & Ground) Code requirements grandfather in 3-prong receptacles in older homes. So if your preference is to remove and replace the power cord on your dryer, make sure you get one that is designed for a dryer application and is 10/3 type. ( 10 Gauge wire with 3 conductors)...
Unplug the original 4 prong plug from the receptacle and pull the dryer away from the wall to gain access to the back of it.
Next, loosen the cord clamp that allows the cord to pass thru the back panel and into the druer compartment.
Open the access cover to where the end of that cord is terminated on a terminal block of the dryer.
Note which color is attached to which terminal ( red to red,black to black, white to white and green to green)...
3 Prong cables do not use a ground wire ( green) in the cord so you would wire the red to red, black to black and white to white ( The red and black are the power conductors and the white ..which is normally terminated between them.. is in the middle. You can get a seperate insulated conductor wire and route it from the ground stud of the dryer to the receptacle metal casing but do this with power disabled at the circuit breaker box...
Hope this helps.
This is common issue. Due to some building codes the 3-prong configuration is no longer used in homes. The wiring is similiar with one exception. The 4-wire plug uses an additonal (WHITE) NEUTRAL wire.
Here's a brief explanation of how the plugs are configured:
Dryer 3 prong wire configuration:
RED - 120 VAC
GREEN - GROUND
BLACK - 120 VAC
Dryer 4 prong wire configuration:
RED - 120 VAC
GREEN - GROUND
BLACK - 120 VAC
WHITE - NEUTRAL
BOTH plugs provide the SAME source voltages to your appliance:
220 VAC - provided across the RED and BLACK leads are what drives your heating circuitry.
120 VAC - usually tapped of the BLACK wire is used to run the drive motor and timer on MOST dryers.
The wire terminal block in the back of the dryer should have a black, white, and red wire running to it from the dryer wiring harness. With the 4 prong plug, simply attach the BLACK, WHITE and RED wires at the terminal block ensuring that you match the RED and BLACK wires as they are configured and attach the WHITE wire at the remaining terminal lug. Make sure you screw them all down securely. Attach the remaining GREEN wire to chassis (dryer frame) ground. I hope ths helps you.