I ran out of nails not knowing it and continued to use gun..think I damaged something. Hammer must be pushed back in manually after each nail is shot or if gun is held foward facing down plunger comes out under gravity towards nail,hence allowing air to escape from somewhere. Thanks very much Joe D.
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Re: Hi I have a np80
Joe it sounds like you have damaged the return puck inside the cylinder. when the piston bottoms out their is a rubber puck inside that cause recoil.over time it can become hard and no llonger resiliant - when you dry fire it can shatter or crack . if it does not have this then it just needs oil . are you oiling every use? usually 3 drops at start of daywill run them for years. at any rate you will have to do the following to confirm. diconnect air - remove four crews that hold cover or back of cylinder- should be obvious-lift off cover - this will expose back of piston whick is connected to drive pin. you mat have to push it backwards through guide late to eject completely.Inspect cylinder and piston -is it dry? no oil? inspect o rings around piston there will be two one at top and one at bottom. oil with damp oil cloth and reassemble it reverse. take care to twist cylinder to line up drive pin- this is critical.Do this and get back to me. good luck
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could be in need of an internal adjustment to stop the hammer from hitting the end plate ( travelling to far)
talk with a tool repair shop and see if there is something that can be done
contact a a hitachi service agent for advice
go google and type in--- repair manual for Hitachi nail gun-- and see if there is a manual in pdf version that you can download
I had this problem too, and finally figured out what was wrong. If you have cleared a jam and have put the nail gun back together, then all you get is a 'thunk' when you try to drive a brad, you have put it back together wrong, as I did. Take the two screws out and pull out all four pieces -- three plates and one skinny 'T' shaped piece. Look inside the unit and you'll see a pointed piece, which is the hammer that drives the brad in. This next step is key: put the first plate back in (the one that is flat on both sides) making sure that it slides in UNDER the hammer. The hammer fits loosely in its housing, so it may help to turn the nailer upside down so that the hammer falls down, giving you the room you need to get the plate in--again, so that it's UNDER the hammer when you turn the nailer back over. Once you have done this part, simply slide the second piece in (the one with the fluted strip down the middle), slide it in fluted side up, then the 'T' piece (with the 'T' in first) then the last piece with the wider groove that contains the 'T' piece. Replace screws and you're back in business! This information may be in the instructions, but I have long ago thrown those away.
I don't have that same model but my gun started doing something similar a while back. I was able to disassemble the head of the gun and found that the hammer or piston that drives the nail had rounded itself off and wasn't able to make good contact with the nail head. Instead it pushed itself on top of the nail and got wedged. It's nearly impossible to see the stuck nail or dulled piston head without taking it apart. Hopefully this will help.
Simple test for piston jam. With nails removed and latch open, point nose of gun up then down. If the driver slides up and down in the cylinder as you move the gun, replace the piston oring (test gun for proper operation). If the piston stays in the upper most position as you move gun (push driver to top position), check lower bumper and bottom seal under the bumper (sheet). Replace as needed. If the lower parts are in good condition (good piston oring, lower bumper and sheet) , replace the 3 orings on the feeder piston. Good luck
Try removing stuck nails without taking apart gun. Remove remaining nails from rails. Use long piece of allen wrench or similar hard steel and grind the end to allow for jamed nail (I use a broken driver blade ground slightly thinner to allow for stuck nail). Use heavy brass or copper hammer to push driver up to top of cylinder. If after a couple of heavy blows the driver does not move, remove the head of the gun and pull out the cylinder and place the body of the gun on plywood. This will protect the head from damage. Good luck
This electric nail gun does not have much power. Try shorter nails and softer wood. You need a pneumatic nail or staple gun for medium or heavy work. I have both a nailer and stapler and neither are very good.
For every nail that a normal human with a hammer could hand drive on his best day, a pneumatic nailer would drive and set twelve! That is no exaggeration. Although there is no need to go this fast, a reasonable speed would allow you to be 400 to 800 percent more productive. Nailing large subfloors and roof decks is a breeze. Hours worth of work becomes minutes.
Yes, because there is less risk of splitting the wood grain when using a nail gun than when using a hammer, nail guns are especially useful in delicate projects such as the application of indoor trimming. A nail gun sets the nail in one motion, reducing the chance of slips and bumps that can ruin delicate woods. Most models also include a rubber safety nose to protect the wood from friction.
Professional-grade varieties are automatic, and fire a nail directly upon pulling the trigger. A semi-automatic nail gun is more appropriate for beginners, since it requires a two step process: pull the trigger and then tap the barrel against the wood. This safety feature protects the user from accidentally firing a nail gun and injuring himself or others.