Question about Audio Players & Recorders
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Even if it were a fuse, a blown fuse is merely a symptom not the solution. From the symptoms you've described the AMPs are the most likely problem. They are mounted to a large aluminum heat sink usually about center of the main board. There are several and they are a task to remove and replace because the entire board has to be removed... However, it's not too costly a repair and for a qualified shop something that can be done in a couple of hours - including testing. If you like the receiver get it fixed. Compared to most digital receivers today it's probably cheaper to fix this one than buy another. And a good repair shop will add years more life to that unit... Hope this helps. Bill
Posted on Jun 06, 2007
SOURCE: No sound
The only fuse on you stero is for power it's a 6.3 amp 125 volt it'on the main board. I have the sam problem I found a resistor on the board that controls the power amps on the heat sink. A lab here charges 35 dollar bench charge and if you want them to fix it they will apply it to the job. I own the same model and i went to circuit city they had lot of different system on sell. So before i put that in to an old system i'll buy another one
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
Since you mention that there is no standby light at all, the problem could be related to the receiver's main power supply, which is not uncommon for a unit of this age.
Now, if you decide to take the unit to a repair shop, do not let the cost of repairing the unit be the only factor that determines if you bring it back to life or to use it as a door stop.
Consider the replacement cost compared to the repair cost, also, have in mind that newer receivers can supply more output power per channel and have more advanced decoding technologies among other features. Hope this helps your decision. Let me know.
Posted on Dec 31, 2007
SOURCE: power short/ bad fuse?
I had the very same problem. The dreaded blinking power light. I also dabble in electronics. I found that all that was wrong with mine was one bad cap. There are two 1000uF(microfarrid) 16V(volt) capacitors in the mid section of the power board, right next to each other. One was bulging on the top. They have an "X" on top. I replaced it with a 1000uF 35V capacitor from Radioshack. They did not have a 16 volt. (Never go down to a lower voltage) The capacitor I got was larger than the old one but I gently moved over the parts around it and got in there. After replacing this one capacitor, which I got for $1.72 tax and all, I plugged it up and no more problems! It works great! I hope this helps someone else.
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
I had the same issue- light was blinking from red to blue, could not get my computers (I have a Mac and a PC) to recognize the drive, sounded like the drive wasn't powering up...
I replaced the Acom drive enclosure with a new one (CP Technologies). I don't know if the drive enclosure or power supply was at fault-- but it wasn't the internal drive. Plugged it in and amazingly all my data was back. For thirty bucks it was far less than sending out the drive to a 'data recovery' expert!
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
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