I need help trouble shooting my new marine radio and antenna; it appears that I transmit but can not receive calls. I can hear some of the weather channels but that's all. Components are:
Antenna is a DIGITAL 528-VW VHF 4FT 4.5DB by Digital Antenna
Radio is a COBRA MR F75 VHF W/ DSC25 WATT
Installation was pretty much plug and play not having to cut or splice the antenna coax using the factory installed connector and the power was connected by wing nuts on top of battery. I have talked with customer support representatives from both companies and they each suggest the the problem is with the other unit. i need to know how to pinpoint the problem; is it installation, radio or antenna? Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks keith
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Re: Transmits but does not Receive
Check your microphone by swapping with another duplicate. If no differance, you will need a SWR meter (standing wave ratio) to find the culprit. It attaches in line of the coax and determinds power out and reflected power. The reading should be 25 watts foward and max of 1 reflected.
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It's a fused circuit. With key on, the injectors will have steady 12 volt power to them. Only when the pcm internally grounds the injector ground wire (running from the injector into the pcm) for a split second, then the injector will pulse.
So you have a fused wire from a fuse box to the injectors. With key in ON, the injector will have voltage to it constantly. When the pcm grounds the circuit, power is passed across the injector terminals, energizing the injector solenoid or coil, and that is your pulse.
Check the injector fuse, check for voltage to an injector with key on, and check the ground wire from injector to the pcm. Here's how to check the ground circuit: use a test light and clip the tester lead on the POSITIVE battery post. Put the tester probe into the ground terminal at the injector, and have a helper crank the engine over. If ground circuit is good, the test light will blink when cranking. You are shooting voltage into the ground wire, and every time the pcm internally grounds that wire, the test light will blink. One other possible cause of no pulse is a shorted injector. This can be checked by testing the resistance (with an ohmmeter) across the injector terminals. It will have a specified resistance value -a few ohms, depending on the make. Just check the resistance of all injectors. Any one that is way off from the others may be a shorted injector- an internal short in the injector solenoid.
Did you run it out of fuel for the down times? 30,60 90 days of down time. If not, first plan on buying a gasket set for the carb. Pull the carb and clean it. Inside and out, soak it in carb cleaner and blow out all ports/holes. Some times you have to manually clean the ports. I use a acetline torch tip cleaner to do carbs.
Hi, It's almost certainly your thermostat not closing, and letting coolant flow round the system while it is still cold. It should close until the motor warms up and then open when cooling is required. Depending on your motor, a new one won't be very expensive and is a simple job to replace.
I believe, but am not sure if the 'silver' is paint over the black cover. If it is, the way I repaired by own, may help you.
A large (8 metre) branch fell on my Thule box splitting the upper carcass in many directions (both seams and field areas), in addition to the complete break of a front lower segment -- see photo. I decided to try and fix it despite finding a replacement. Well I have to say, it worked out great, and it did not involve expensive epoxy, adhesives, hot air welders, or any of the methods most commonly referred to. Thule's cargo boxes are made from ABS plastic. The same black plastic material used for your household domestic waste plumbing systems. Rather than use foreign (non-ABS) material as your binding agent, simply use ABS. By keeping the joint material native, you are essentially re-establishing the continuity of the original material.
Take a small piece of ABS pipe (any scrap will do, just ensure it's ABS -- will say on the side) and grind it down in shavings. I used a rotary cutting tool with a bit that looks like a common router bit for rabbit joinery. This resulted in very small shavings. Accumulate enough shavings and place in a small glass jam jar with a lid. I had to cover roughly 1.5 metres in crack length and found ABS shaving volume equal to a couple marsh mellows to be plenty. Here's the magic.... pour a small amount of Acetone into the jar and stir the contents (do it outside as it fumes) -- add more as needed just to get it to the consistency of carpenter's glue.
After you have bound the cracked segments of your Thule from the outside (I used rubberized packing tape as it has great horizontal field strength but can be removed easily). The tape up job doesn't have to be pretty, just ensure the edges are tight together and the tape is firmly holding it tight. On the inside, use a rotary cutting tool and any cutting bit to grind a trough directly where the cracks are. I went down approximately 3 millimetres and across approximately 8 mills. I left it rough to the touch. Clean the trough with Isopropyl alcohol; let dry.
Using a small paint brush (ones you find in elementary school water colour paint kits are fine) "paint" the trough with the dissolved ABS from your jar. The advantage here is the Acetone in the mixture dissolves the edge of your trough so both the slurry (your mixture) and the hard carcass body are naturally bonding. As you might imagine, the Acetone will evaporate leaving nothing behind but ABS -- as hard as the original, fully bonded to the original material. Once dried, apply additional coats to build up the trough to your preferred profile.
Remove the tape on the outside and you're set. You could apply some sealant to the outer surface of the cracked area, but I did not as keeping it clean to look at on the outside is difficult when adding to the perfectly smooth outer surface.