I replaced the thermostat controling our 20 yr old carrier heat pump and the furnace will not power up now. The wiring to the thermostat is wired as the furnace is letter for letter. Is there a fuse or something I may have blown out? I did not turn off the breaker the first time I hooked up the thermostat?
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Re: carrier heat pump
Fuse is usually a small resetable breaker on the side of the transformer, or a traditional screwin fuse with a plastic cap on one end that is a specialty fuse and is available at most motor shops or elec supply houses. or its a auto type plug in fuse on the circuit board usually 5 amps or three amps. first turn the fan switch on the stat from auto to on. does fan run? if it does you have high and low voltage and your wired wrong. if it is in the stat you are usually looking at red connects to red . yellow to yellow, green to green , orange to orange, white usually to white, that leaves a common power wire to operate the stat, usually connected to the common term on the new stat . this can be any color and is necessary for the new stat to think and work, if it has batteries it will have a display but it needs a red and a common to think and work. this wire can be any color and if your old stat had no common which a lot didnt then youll have to add one. carrier also has a emergency heat strip wire sometimes labeled x2 etc. you can usually jump white over to x2 to perform function if needed. good luck.
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I am assuming for the first explanation, the thermostat is not being satisfied. If this is the case, you may have a duct fallen off and is not heating the interior of the home. I have had several supply ducts fallen off the supply under homes in one subdivision because the original installers only duct taped the supply ducting to the headers and the duct just blew off. This happens more often than I would like to mention in attics spaces also. So if the thermostat is not satisfied look for major leaks.
2nd part, you may need to replace the themostat wire if the wires are shorting out. In particular the white wire is the normal color for thermostat for w connection for furnace control. If a white wire is shorting to any control wire that has 24 volts on it, like the green wire for the fan, red wire for the control voltage to most controls etc, the furnace will run continuously as long as the furnace is getting the voltage on the white wire. To check this out, turn the thermostat to off and check the voltage on the white wire to common. If 26 volts is present, the wire is shorting somewhere and the thermostat wire that is damaged needs to be replaced. I have seen pets, rodents, lawn mower blade damage, bad insulation problems and overdrawing components causing theromostat wire deterioration.
3rd possibility, is remote due to the unit has been installed for 10 years, but if recent addtions were made to home, the unit may not produce enough heat to heat the additional demands of added rooms. In particular, this winter has been really cold in some locals and the unit may just be undersized.
Hope this helps
On that thermostat there is an R and an RC wire connection, the R is the power wire for heat and RC is the power wire for cooling. If you connected the power wire (normally red in color) to the RC only the fan control and AC control will work, there has to be a jumper wire between the R and RC terminals (assuming there is only one control transformer) for both the heat and cool functions to work.
Some of the old heat pumps made the reversing valve in the heating mode. On your new thermostat the orange wire will need to be on the B terminal. If it was color coded? I hope you made notes of how it was.
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Thermostat wire color codes
explained. Please note. Not all installers use the proper color codes when they
install or replace equipment. It may be necessary go go to the furnace or
outdoor unit to verify what wires are for what purpose. Also be sure there are
no splices in the wire that could change the wire colors between components.
or Rh (Red heat) 24 volts from equipment.
cooling) 24 volts from transformer in cooling equipment.
Note: If only furnace has a
transformer and cooling equipment does not jumper Rc and Rh.
sends 24 volts to furnace control to start the heating cycle.
W2 (no standardized wire
color, usually whatever wire color is available) controls second stage
Note: W2 is most often used
for heat pumps to control what is called emegency heat or Auxillary heat, and
most often will use the white wire.
often (blue) is used, controls cooling
unit (outdoor condensing unit) also is used for heat pump heat.
Y2 (no standardized wire
color, usually whatever wire color is available) controls second stage
controls the fan "on" operation of the furnace/air handler. Also
often is used to start the blower for many electric furnaces.
most often brown but can also be black or other color available to
Energizes heat pump reversing valve for cooling (Trane and most other
Energizes heat pump reversing valve for heating (Rheem, Ruud and
You have a carrier or bryant AC Coil model number and the sn says 1995 and its 5 tons and if you actually have a heat pump with the gas furnace you have what we call in the business a dual fule heatpump setup. There are a number of items that could be causing your problem. I would recomend that you first look for the relay box discribed below and if you have that put the wires at your furnace (R &W) together with nothing else on them. If it lites then the problem could be anywhere, thermostat, wiring, the control box which has about 4 to 6 relays. If it dosn't lite the furnace is where your problem is or at least one of your problems is and start there. remove anyother wires on R&W before reapplying power. Also if you have the control box below it will have its own 24v control transformer but your going around that with the test I mentiond here. Oh yes and if it hasnt been modified you'll have to keep the solid door on it to apply power to the furnace.
There are a multitude of items it could be but I believe your age furnace has an auxiliary sensor - relay assembly it is a box about 18 inches long X 6 inches square. has about 10 terminals on it. And it will look like a birds nest with all the wires going and comming out. Id have to suggest you call someone and here's what Id do if I were you. If they say they aren't sure but think its in the relay assembly for the dual fuel control ask them to call carrier or Bryant and request they talk to a service trained expert there or recomend someone. You can do this instead of paying for 2 people. Just ask them if they know about Bryant or Carrier Heatpump dual fuel setup before you tell them to come out.
The newer dual fuel thermostats around $300 - $400 plus an out door sensor about $30 will get you fixed for parts. NO more relay box needed just the out door sensor and the compatable thermostat. if this is where the problem leads. The thermostat cost will depend on if you want the program feature. If someone is home all day Id suggest you probably don't need this feature.
This should get you headed in the right direction. If it helps you please grasde me accordingly, and GOOD LUCK!
sounds like you have a heat pump the w2 on old thermostat is for a second stage heat. If you can give me a little more information on type of system you have (forced air furnace with heat/cool, Heat pump or boiler)? How many wires are on old thermostat? Is it a no programmable or programmable? How old is the furnace?
Hi!!! Does your ac unit work fine?If not check your low voltage problem..You have a low voltage problem check the wire going out to your condensor make sure that they are not touching..Good luck..Check low voltage wires..short in progress..
Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. This is all for a heat pump, If you do not have a heat pump, then disregard the references to "O", "B", "E", and "aux". You will have R-power on red wire, W-heat signal to furnace, G-fan signal to furnace, and "Y" cool signal to outdoor unit.
Your old stat is wired for a traditional thermostat and not a communication stat like the new infinity you have. There is a module plug on the furnace board that will need to be connected to the new thermostat for it to work. The wires that are wired now are from a terminal strip inside the furnace. Please contact your local Carrier dealer. They may be able to get that harness for you