Im having an electric shower installed, the cables are run through the middle of my kitchen wall into my sitting room looking like a jig saw puzzle and into electric box cant this be done lower down help please
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Shower heads have flow limiters installed in them. This means the water heater cannot sense the water flowing and therefore it wont come on. Take the shower head off and look in the end for a piece of plastic that is in the swivel. Remove it. Then put the shower head back on.
The first steps in cable wiring involve identifying the location
and number of rooms, identifying the type of wire needed, and
measuring for wire length. Owners have the choice of
purchasing finished coaxial cable, which comes in specific
lengths with attached fittings on each end or unfinished cable,
which can be cut to any length and finished by the purchaser.
Cable that will not be installed behind the walls should be
placed in areas where they will not present a safety hazard,
such as along floorboards where they can be secured. Cut
holes in walls or ceilings for in-wall installations. These
installations must be done carefully so that the holes can be
replaced and repainted after the wiring is completed. In-wall
installations also require special attention to location, since the
cable may cross the path of electrical wiring. It is important to
maintain sufficient distance between cable and electric wires
for both safety and performance, since running the cable wire
too close to the electric wires can degrade performance.
Be sure to attach one end of the wire to the "out" connector on
the video device and connect the other end to the "in" on the
television or monitor.
Check for any tripped breakers. Make sure a wall switch is not controlling any of them or that they are not on a GFCI circuit. If all OK, turn power off to outlet that works. Remove the covers from each outlet, and pull the outlets out of each box as far as you can, but leave the wires attached to the plug, making sure none of the wires contact any part of the box if its metal. Look at the wires attached at each outlet if they are not attached to the side screw terminals, but rather pushed into the back instead, note the way each is attached, then either cut them off as close to the plug as you can or pull them out of the back. Now reattach them in the correct place but put them on the screw terminals instead. Make sure all wires are secure. Turn on the power and carefully test each outlet for power. If they all work, turn off power, replace everything and your good. If still no power at any of them determine which outlet(s) have only one cable entering the box. The boxes with one cable will either be on its own circuit, or the last one in the run. The boxes with 2 at least 2 cables will be the middle of the run and one of those will be the one with the power supply for all of the others. If you don't have a signal tracer try locating tracing the wires from the 2 wired boxes in the basement, one of those wires is the feed and could be disconnected at a junction box or at the service panel.
Also, please note that all electrical wiring and installation details given on diydata.com is for information purposes only. From 1st January 2005, the Building Regulations Part P requires, in England and Wales, that only certified persons can carryout electrical installation work, or the work must be certified upon completion - see this page for more details.
(1) The ordinary wall sockets around the house are normally connected to a ring circuit (also referred to as a ring main). The ring circuits of a domestic property supply the socket outlets and fixed appliances in the premises.
(2) The 'ring' is formed by the cable going from the consumer unit to the first socket, then on to the second socket and then the next socket etc. until the cable returns to the consumer unit. This means (in simple terms) that every socket on the ring circuit has two cable routes back to the supply. The cable of the ring circuit consists of a red (live) wire, a black (neutral) wire and a bare copper earth wire, all three being enclosed by an outer PVC sheathing. The cable used in domestic ring circuits is either 2.5sq mm or 4.0sq mm twin core and earth, these are rated (in free air) at 24amps or 32amps respectively.
(3) Each ring circuit is protected by a 32 amp fuse or trip fitted in the consumer unit. Modern installations incorporate a Residual Current Device (RCD) before the consumer unit which trips the whole system off if a fault is detected.
(4) In older houses the cabling for ring circuits (and other circuits) may be fed through the wall cavity with the cables coming into the back of the wall mounted socket. This is unacceptable in new premises and extensions. It is now considered that cables within the cavity may become wet causing the insulation of the cable to break down and moisture running down the cable into the socket. When rewiring older houses, new cables should not be run through the cavity, they should be run through new ducting embedded in the inner wall surfaces or under floorboards.
(5) A ring circuit is considered to be rated at 30amps (7200 watts). A ring may serve up to 100 m sq of floor area and, in theory, may have any number of sockets outlets or fused connection units connected to it. With each socket outlet is normally rated at 13 amps, as a 'rule of thumb', they are limited to under twenty outlets, it is unlikely that the variety of domestic appliances being used at any one time will exceed 30amps. The length of cable used in a ring circuit is limited to 50 metres for circuits protected by an MCB. The sockets are normally mounted flush with the wall although surface mounted boxes are often easier to fit when sockets are added to the circuit. .
(6) High power electrical appliances (such as cookers, showers etc.) should not be connected to a ring main even if they use less current that the 30 amp rating of the ring circuit. Connection of such appliances will reduce the number of other appliances that can be use simultaneously and will lead to nuisance trips at the consumer unit.
(7) It is advisable to have at least two ring circuit in all premises, in multi floor houses, one for each floor. The kitchen may have a large number of electrical appliances so a separate ring circuit for the kitchen may also worthwhile, this has the added benefit that a freezer will not be affected if there is a fault elsewhere. A single ring circuit should serve a floor area no greater than 100sq m (or 120sq yd).
(8) In the UK, plugs used on a modern ring circuit have square pins and each plug is fitted with either 3 or 13 amp fuses. The correct fuse should always be fitted to suit the appliance, 3 amp fuses for appliances rated up to 750 watts, (lamps and clock radios etc.) - 13amp fuses for larger appliances up to 3000 watts.
(9) Spur extensions can be connected to the ring circuit. A spur is a socket connected into the ring by a single cable run so the socket does not have the full benefit of two cable routes to the consumer unit. Spurs are often used when a socket is added, it is easier to connect using a single cable rather than extending the ring circuit to include the new socket. A spur extension can be connected to the ring circuit provided that it supplies only 13 amp socket outlet (although that can be a double socket outlet) or one fixed appliance. Over the whole ring, the total number of spurs must not exceed the number of socket outlets directly on the main ring. No more than two separate spurs may be connected from each outlet on the ring.
Removal of the front of a wall socket will give an indication of the circuit connected to it:
A single cable connected to the terminals indicates that it is an existing spur. Two cables may indicate either that it is on a main ring circuit OR that it is a spur with another spur connected to it. This is not a recognised configuration but possible if both spur sockets are single sockets. Three or four cables normally indicate a socket on a main ring circuit with one or two spurs running from it. If the wiring has been changed by a previous diy'er, it may be possible to identify any added cables and then deduce the original circuit.
Ring circuit fused outlet units
Where connection to a fixed appliance is required, a fused outlet unit may be fitted to the wall (rather than a plug socket) and connected into the ring main. These outlets require the correct fuse rating for the appliance and are connected to the appliance by a cable or flex. The outlet may be switched or unswitched and may be fitted with an indicator light to show when the supply is connected.
Where a flex is taken to a heater of any sort (e.g. night store heater) the flex must be of a special 'high temperature' type suitable for the elevated temperatures encountered. Use of ordinary flex will result in the insulation breaking down causing the flex to become dangerous.
A clock outlet is a similar type of unit, but with a small fuse fitted in a special plug connected to the flex. The plug may be retained in the socket by a screw or knurled thumbscrew. Though called a clock outlet, they are also suitable for other small low current appliances such as extractor fan units, door bells.
High Power circuits.
Within domestic premises, there may be a number of high wattage appliances, the most common being an electric cooker, immersion heater and electric shower. Each of these appliances should be connected to the consumer unit using a dedicated fuse/trip and cable run. The installation instructions for the appliance should detail the wattage of the appliance (which will also normally be shown somewhere on the appliance), the amperage of the fuse/trip and the size of cable required. Any switches on these circuits must also be of a suitable current rating.
I answer questions for free. I know electric wiring. However I might not understand your problem. If I do not understand your problem, add a comment with more information and I will respond.
If I understand correctly you want to add a new switch and a new light in your garage. And you are starting from scratch with no knowledge. You are starting with a blank wall.
I do not know what a consummer unit is. Is that a type of light?
Here's a sketch of the project: We need an electrical receptacle or wall-plug so we can get electricity. We need to run a cable from the electrical wall-plug to the switch. This will bring electricity to your switch. And then we need to run a cable to the light.
Let's talk about how you get electricity from the wall-plug. The wall plug has a black and white wire connected to each side. Your cable has a black and white wire. You connect your black wire with the black side. Connect white to the white side.
Now run the cable to your switch. The cable arrives at the switch. The cable has a black and white wire. The switch is wired differently than the wall-plug. On the switch you connect one black wire. But the white is not connected to switch.
Now we're ready for the cable going to the light. The cable to the light has a black and white wire. Connect the black to the switch. So now you have 2 black wires connected to the switch. The black wires are on different screws. And then connect the two white wires together.
So the switch is wired. Run the cable to your light. The cable arrives at the light. The cable still has a black and a white wire. Your light will have wires -or- it will have screws.
If light has black and white wires, then connect black to black and white to white.
If your switch has screws, then connect black to brass-screw and white to silver-screw.
Did it work before? Is this a new install? Try replacing the cable with a known to be good one. You may have used a "crossover" cable by accident, in which case it won't work at all. You need a "patch" cable. Sometimes the wires connected inside the wall jack can get loose. Pull the wall jack and inspect the wire connections. Use a small screwdriver to push the wires into the slots if any look loose.
It's possible that the network adapter (NIC) drivers are corrupt. Check "device manager" to re-install the driver. Also, the router may be misconfigured.
Sometimes this problem can be solved by shutting down the computer, then pulling the power cable on the router and let it sit unpowered for a minute or so. Then re- power up the router. Once the lights are green, boot the computer and it should come up.
There is a CAT5/RJ45 A-Bus interface on the back of the HK AVR 435. That needs to connect to your A-BUS "hub". HK has two hub products: ABH-4000 and ABH-4 (older). Then CAT5 cable can be run from this hub to Wall-installed room-specific controls. HK has the AB-2 product, but any ABus compatible wall control will work. From the wall control, you wire regular audio cable to the speakers. So, some of the questions/issues to solve are: where do the existing wires go that are connected to the in-wall speakers? Typically that location is where to place your in-wall volume and source controls. Then the CAT5 gets wired from those controls back to the hub. And all that's required is a single CAT5 from the AVR to the Hub.
I would unscrew shower head pipe and either pipe dope it or tefilon the threads and then reinstall it. I would also take the handle(s) rosettes off and look for a leak from there with a flashlight, while shower is on. I believe the most comon leak for walk in showers are the door seals. Are you sure it is not coming out from under the door? Another test that yuo may want to preform is to Stopper the drain, fill the shower pan with water and watch for bubbles, or look for leaks from below.