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not really. i have the same problem. voltage sense electrical probe reads voltage in the sockets, but two new bulbs, tested elsewhere will not light. there are better solutions on this board relating to burned out resistor in dimmer switch.
think i would call viking back and ask for refund of inspection fee and go by the bad switch scenerio the electrician said new fan that would be considered flaws in workmanship in most states dont know where you are located but pretty much same anywhere most inspectors for these companies always try to blame problems off on installers hold your ground and make them fix it and refund that" inspection " fee I've been doing electrical work for several (20+) years it takes longer than 5 minutes to troubleshoot something like that good luck
If you have 120VAC on the center contact of the light socket, and a working fan, but the bulb won't light...the most likely cause would be a disconnected neutral wire (white) in the light wiring inside the hood....assuming everything else is wired correctly.
If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.
Part PE050033 no longer exists. It's now two parts: PE050141 for the light and PE050156 for the fan. You must first remove all of the small switches then pull off the front panel to tighten the small nuts that hold the new units in place.
steve...first, is the light working? If not, you may not have power. If so, turn off all power to the unit at the breaker. Remove the filter and see if the blower turns easily by hand. Yes...switch could be bad...no...motor bad.
Open up unit and using test light from the hardware store and motor plug disconnected...turn on fan and probe the motor feed wire for power. It may be the switch that's bad. This should tell you.