I have a toggled amp system so that I can shut off the Amps independantly. I have 500 watt 4/3 amp that works fine. I installed a 600 watt 2/1 amp that will not work. First thought that the toglle switch was messed up. Took the power supply of of the amp that works fine and hooked to the 600 and turned on the power supply. The LED comes on and then goes off. I turn off the amps power supply and turn it back on, nothing happens. I have to turn off my radio and turn off the amp and then turn the radio back on and the Amp back on and it stills does the same thing.
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Re: Power Problem, LED Lights up and then shuts off
Do you have the switch or activate wire on the new amp. to the right hookup? If you do, then theres a problem with the amp and if your not a tech these can be a difficult thing to trouble shoot. Take back the amp or seek out a pro to test it on a bench. Good Luck
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Do the maths and talk to an accredited auto electrician but I am sure that the alternator will be too small for what you want to do
the formula is I(amps)= P(watts) divided by volts
4 lights at 130 watts each =520 watts divided by 12 volts =43.3
amps extra for the alternator to handle. AS most alternators currently run at 90% capacity with normal vehicle operations you will need a bigger alternator. I would consider using a band of LED lights as they have more light than the 130 watts will provide and use just a few amps thereby not requiring a new alternator. Do your home work .the price of a new alternator and wiring ,relays etc against the LED lights. More light , lighter bracketry and no relays.
Assuming the output is 120VAC, you can only run items pulling about 4 amps. If the voltage output is 220 VAC, you can only run items pulling about 2.25 amps. Read the labels on the devices you want to use, they should list either watts or amps used.
To convert amps to watts: Current times voltage To convert watts to amps: Watts divided by voltage
You're not going to be able to do this with just a known Horse Power.
There are 3 elements to the equation, with any two, you can work out the third.
If you want to know how the amperage, you will need to know the voltage and wattage of the motor. I imagine that you already know the voltage (It's going to be 220V or 110 volt)
Watts divided by volts = Amps
A 220v 1000 watt motor (1000 divided by 220) will draw 4.55 amps A 110v 800 watt motor (800 divided by 110) will draw 7.27 amps
Bear in mind that most washing machines have a couple of windings for wash and spin. As an average, the was winding will usually be about 500 watts to spin and about 250 watts to wash. ALSO, bear in mind that if you are using this data for a WASHING MACHINE, then there is a water heating element in there too and that draws about 2Kw (2000 watts)
Dont just take this as read, you DO need to check wattages, but, working on what I have just said, the max consumption on a 220V machine will look like this:
At Spin, with a 500 Watt consumption: (500/220) = 2.3 amps While Washing with a 250 watt consumption: (250/220) = 1.14 amps
Consider that the WASH and HEAT may be running at the same time. 2Kw heating (2000/220) = 9.1 amps PLUS 1.14 amps for the motor - Total wattage 10.24 amps
Watts / Volts = Amps Amps x Volts = Watts Watts divided by amps = Volts
I can't find an online manual for the model of the appliance you are talking about, so I'm unable to figure out the wattage it draws. Nor do I know where you are in the world and the voltage you are running at, so I can't tell you straight off. But I can tell you how to figure it out very easily:
I imagine that know what your main power supply voltage is (either 240 volt or 110 volt). You can look at the appliance and there will be a data sticker with the wattage rating on it somewhere (or it will be in the install/Owner manual).
Now you have these 2 bits of information we can do a simple sum:
Watts divided by Volts = Amps
Therefore example calculations look like this: If you have a 500 watt appliance on a 240 volt system 500/240 = 2.083 so use a 3 amp fuse An appliance with a 750 watt motor on 240 volts: 750/240 = 3.12 so use a 5 amp fuse A 2KW (2000 watt) appliance like a hot air blower on a 240 volt system: 2000/240 = 8.33 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse A 500 watt motor on a 110 volt supply 500/110 = 4.5 so use a 5 amp fuse A 1KW (1000 Watt) appliance at 110 volts: 1000/110 = 9.09 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse
etc etc etc.....
If the sum comes out below 13 amps, you can use a 13 amp plug. If it doesn't you need to hardwire it into a proper cooker supply.
Can you verify the amp draw on the output? This gen should handle 25 amps continuous. I wonder if you actually have a bit more that 9 amps? It would be nice to check the frequency and volts too...A Fluke multi-meter can read these values.
If you got the store bought APC 350 UPS, you most likely overloaded them, and killed them beyound repair.
People should never buy a 350VA. They are way to small for power supplies most of us now have. you need to start out to 1000VA plus you need to do the math to figure out how big of a UPS you actually need in the show room. What am I talking about?What is the significant, or the math of what I am saying here.115V x 1 amps =115VA x.778 power factor = 89.47 wattsStart up 50 watts = 39.47 watts 115V x 2 amps =230VA x.778 power factor = 178.94 wattsStart up 50 watts = 128.94 watts 115V x 3 amps =345VA x.778 power factor = 268.41 wattsStart up 50 watts = 218.41 watts 115V x 4 amps =460VA x.778 power factor = 357.88 wattsStart up 50 watts = 307.88 watts 115V x 5 amps =575VA x.778 power factor = 447.35 wattsStart up 50 watts = 397.35 watts 115V x 6 amps =690VA x.778 power factor = 536.82 wattsStart up 50 watts = 486.82 watts 115V x 7 amps =805VA x.778 power factor = 626.29 wattsStart up 50 watts = 576.29 watts 115V x 8 amps =920VA x.778 power factor = 717.76 wattsStart up 50 watts = 667.76 watts 115V x 9 amps =1035VA x .778 power factor = 805.23 wattsStart up 50 watts = 755.23 watts 115V x 10 amps = 1150VA x .778 power factor = 894.70 wattsStart up 50 watts = 844.70 watts 115V x 11 amps = 1265VA x .778 power factor = 984.17 wattsStart up 50 watts = 934.17 watts 115V x 12 amps = 1380VA x .778 power factor = 1073.63 watts Start up 50 watts = 1023.63 watts 115V x 13 amps = 1495VA x .778 power factor = 1163.11 watts Start up 50 watts = 1113.11 watts 115V x 14 amps = 1610VA x .778 power factor = 1252.58 watts Start up 50 watts = 1202.58 watts 115V x 15 amps = 1725VA x .778 power factor = 1342.05 watts Start up 50 watts = 1292.05 watts 115V x 16 amps = 1840VA x .778 power factor = 1431.52 watts Start up 50 watts = 1387.52 watts 115V x 17 amps = 1955VA x .778 power factor = 1520.99 watts Start up 50 watts = 1470.99 watts 115V x 18 amps = 2070VA x .778 power factor = 1610.46 watts Start up 50 watts = 1560.46 watts 115V x 19 amps = 2185VA x .778 power factor = 1699.93 watts Start up 50 watts = 1649.93 watts 115V x 20 amps = 2300VA x .778 power factor = 1789.40 watts Start up 50 watts = 1739.40 watts
With a single 4-ohm subwoofer, usually the best choice is a 2-channel amp that can be bridged to a single channel. In your case, the sub is rated for 1000 watts. Not many amps are rated for that kind of continuous power into a 4-ohm load.
Kicker doesn't list a minimum power rating, which isn't unusual in subwoofer specs. Depending on your budget, I'd look for an amp rated for 300-500 watts minimum; the higher, the better, up to 1000 watts.
Most amps will have several power ratings, based on the load impedance and number of channels driven. A typical 2-channel amp might be rated like this:
150 watts x 2 channels at 4 ohms
300 watts x 2 channels at 2 ohms
500 watts x 1 channel at 4 ohms.
The power rating you'll want to look at will be the 1-channel, 4-ohm rating.
You can look at mono amps, too, but in the power ranges you're looking for, a 2-channel amp will probably give you the best value. However, if you can find a mono amp with a high enough 4-ohm power rating, it would run cooler and might last longer than a 2-channel amp with comparable power. When looking at mono amps, you'll find their highest power output will be at 2 ohms or 1 ohm; make sure you're checking the 4-ohm rating when making comparisons.
Some amplifiers that might work well for you:
Hifonics ZXi 1006
Power Acoustik OV2-2200