Question about GE WHRE5260E Top Load Washer

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Machine klunks when trying to spin

When the machine tries to go into the spin cycle is makes klunking sounds and the tub shakes back and forth. After you open and close the lid multiple times, the machine may start spinning correctly.

If it does catch and is in the spin cycle and you open then close the lid, it will continue with the spin cycle properly. However once the spin cycle is complete and stops by itself, then you turn the knob to the spin cycle again, it will have the same problem listed above when you try to start it.

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  • GoNoles Oct 21, 2008

    I did not see it listed in the previous post. So, this is a GE S4200B1WW washer.



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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: washer will not spin

Could be a bad clutch or transmission. I would either call a tech or get a new washer (these newer GE models don't seem to be very reliable, go for a Whirlpool/Kenmore model next time). Here are breakdown diagrams for your washer: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=230151 Hope this helps, APP Tech

Posted on Aug 08, 2006

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: washer continues to work even if water is not filled to top and even if i try to stop continues to spin

A defective pressure switch can interfere with the cycles that depend upon the switch to indicate when water has filled or emptied from the tub. It can also result in underfilling or overfilling of the tub. The switch routes current from the timer control to the temperature switch and the water inlet valve when the tub needs to be filled. Once full, the pressure switch cuts the current and reroutes it to the motor on the timer control to continue the cycle.

Posted on Dec 22, 2007

agitateme
  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: when in spin made loud klunking and screaching

Pull off the bottom panel, (three 1/4" screws along bottom). Check for chunks of concrete hanging down, or in the bottom pan. I have seen the lower front counter-weights on the HE2 break off several times. If not, reach in and give the basket a hard spin by hand, if you hear clunking or grinding, or the basket feels loose, you have a bad basket brace (usually caused by slop in the rear bearing). You would need to replace the rear shell (comes with a pre-installed bearing) and the basket. Depending on age, these parts may be in warranty, check your manual.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: front loading ge washing machine only 2 months old. door locks,

take water lines off of water valve at rear of unit and clean dirt out of screens.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • 120 Answers

SOURCE: Fridgidaire Gallery Series Front Load washer won't drain or spin

It sounds like there may be 2 things wrong. If the drier is not draining then the pump is clogged. Remove the drain hoses and check the pump(IMPORTANT!!!!Before you remove the hoses get a pan to put under the hoses. Alot of water will go on the if you do not do this...)The pump most likely has a coin in it.
The klunk you heard... If the drum spins and seems to be out of balance. If could be your rear bearing or your spider bracket.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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It sounds like there may be 2 things wrong. If the drier is not draining then the pump is clogged. Remove the drain hoses and check the pump(IMPORTANT!!!!Before you remove the hoses get a pan to put under the hoses. Alot of water will go on the if you do not do this...)The pump most likely has a coin in it.
The klunk you heard... If the drum spins and seems to be out of balance. If could be your rear bearing or your spider bracket.

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When in spin made loud klunking and screaching noise. now will not work in spin cycle without making loud klunking noise


Pull off the bottom panel, (three 1/4" screws along bottom). Check for chunks of concrete hanging down, or in the bottom pan. I have seen the lower front counter-weights on the HE2 break off several times. If not, reach in and give the basket a hard spin by hand, if you hear clunking or grinding, or the basket feels loose, you have a bad basket brace (usually caused by slop in the rear bearing). You would need to replace the rear shell (comes with a pre-installed bearing) and the basket. Depending on age, these parts may be in warranty, check your manual.

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The cost of replacing them both is probably prohibitive.

Unless you are really into preserving the environment (and your machine) it may be time to retire it.

I don't know where you are but I would estimate the cost of the transmission at $120-150 US and the motor at $60-100 only for parts.

With the growing complexity of many machines, I tend to stick with those using older technology and keep my fingers crossed that they have not cheapened the quality too much.

As we equipped a new house 3 years ago, I did a lot of research and found essentially no machine that was 'bullet-proof.'

We finally bought Roper machines and have not had any complaints to date but have a small household so not much stress on the machines.
Roper has been owned by Whirlpool for years but my experience with direct Whirlpool branded machines really stinks; refrigerator died due to a low-voltage condition that occurred while we were gone requiring a new comperessor, washing machine thatate its transmission in < 3 years, etc.
All were purchased new.

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