You have a poor electrical connection, causing the fuse to heat up. Check to make sure electrical connections are all tight, especially the wires in your fuse disconnect box. Most fused disconnect boxes have a hex screw behind the fuse that the back of the fuse touches. Make sure that is tight also. The poor connection could be in other areas also, such as the receptacle the dryer cord plugs into or the connections of the dryer cord to the dryer.
We
have a dryer ( could be any make! ) that is
consistently blowing fuses after about 15-20 minutes. We have taken
the dryer apart to check for clogs in the venting system and to check
if the heating core was okay and they seem to be fine. Any ideas?
Blowing
the house fuses? If yes....the dryer usually will blow a fuse right
away if there is a problem in the dryer....more often than not a fuse
that blows after the dryer has been running a while it is a fuse box
issue. A test: Put 2 new 30 amp fuses in and run the dryer with the
heat on for 5-10 minutes, turn off the dryer and
quickly remove the fuses from the house fuse box and see if they are
hot at all ( especially on the bottom )....if the fuses are getting hot
they are
probably melting the fuse link and not really blowing = fuse box
problem.
As for most things there are exceptions....a grounded heating element
-may- blow the fuse after the dryer has been on for a while, it is easy
to test for that as well. See. A burnt/loose power cord/plug -may- also give this type of a
problem.
Dryer basics- Venting problems and
power supply:
Most dryer "to long to dry" or "poor/low
heat" complaints can be traced back to a bad or poor
venting system and sometimes a poorly maintained lint filter. Do not go outside and put
your hand under the vent opening and say " it is fine - I feel air coming
out"...that is not good enough...take your venting apart, clean it ALL
out and make sure the vent hood flapper works and that it is not clogged with lint. Make
sure your venting system is short, straight and resistance free as possible. A poor
venting system will shorten the life of your dryer, plug up the fan blower and duct work
inside your dryer as well.
Gas dryers need 120 volts to operate the whole dryer.
Electric dryers need 240 volts to operate the heating element and 120 volts to operate the
timer and motor. You should see 240 volts between the black and red wires, 120 volts
between the red and white wires, 120 volts between the black and white wires at the
electric dryer main power harness. A blown house fuse ( or breaker ) would stop a gas
dryer from working at all. A blown house fuse ( or a 1/2 tripped breaker ) would still
allow the electric dryer to run but you would get no heat. Depending on which fuse goes,
sometimes the dryer could be dead as well. If you have problems with a fuse letting go or
a breaker tripping after the dryer runs for a while, normally the problem is not in the dryer but is in the fuse box.i think it will work
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Hi mntech !
I already check all the connections in main panel, receptacle, everyting is all tight. My conserne is, how can i remove the fuse holder from the fuse panel. It won't come off. That's the only place where i did not check.
Another thing that i forgot to tell is the line voltage on both circuit don't have the same voltage. When the dryer is working and heating, i have 117 volts ahn the other one is 118 volts. Is this normal ? I track down to the main panel and the voltage is different at the bussbar to.
Any suggestions ?
I'am about to call a électricien to have the panel check and to give me a estimation to change to 200 amps.
Thanks for the support !
Yvon
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