Hi, my name is Denver, I have a Lanza Optic 500.2 amp
everytime i put the bass louder it blows the fuse, im using a 60Amp fuse,
In the owners manual says the amp(500.2) takes four 40amp fuses but my amp DON'T have any place for fuses, My main power fuse is a 60amp thats the one keeps blowing, Amp works perfect when it's soft.
Pls help me
Many thanks: Denver (S.A)
The reason your blowing fuses is the amp needs at the least a 150 amp fuse on the wire that runs to your bat. There are fuse blocks that you can put 4 40amp fuse and theres the high dollor ones that you can put all the way to 200amp. When you trun up your amp its drawing to much current for the little 40 amp fuse that you have and will blow it everytime. I recomend Running a 4 gage wire to bat and ground with same. Get you a 150 or above amp fuse from a car audio shop somewhere. anyway sounds like from what you decribed, theres nothing wrong with your amp just the wires and fuse are not big enouf to handle the current that your amp pulls.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I looked at the wiring diagrams and those two circuits should be on two different fuses. The shift lock solenoid is powered by the 10amp turn signal fuse and the 15amp stop light fuse. If the fuse blows when you put it in park, I would say the shift lock solenoid is the problem and the stop light fuse is the one that is blowing. The heater fan and relay are powered by a 60amp fuse and a 15amp fuse but not the stop light fuse. Its possible there is a short some where that has connected these two circuits. You could disconnect the shift lock solenoid to see if the fuse still blows.
The SP2 speakers are rated at 1000 watts PROGRAM which is around 500 watts RMS MAXIMUM. You should be using an amp capable of a maximum of 500 watts a side... Your amp is WAY too big. You will have to throttle it down. The speakers have the protection for the tweeters but NOT for the woofers. At five hundred watts RMS and 8 ohms the current is: P = I^2 * R so I^2 = 500/8 = 62.5 so MAX current is 7.9 amps. I recommend you put a 8 amp FAST BLOW fuse in the speaker leads. If the fuse blows, you have saved another speaker and you are DRIVING them too hard. For greater safety make the fuse a 7.5 amp fast blow. Also get a sound meter. The max on these speakers is 125 Db at a meter distance... and in your venue you should NOT exceed 100 Db to be safe with the OSHA regulations regarding hearing protection... I suspect you are driving the speakers too hard. One side may be getting more bass. The speakers are rated down to 55 Hz. DO NOT boost bass up as you will overheat the speakers. If you are using microphones, be careful of feedback, especially that above hearing range. If you need real low bass, then get an 18 inch subwoofer. No matter, stay within safe sound levels to avoid lawsuits and hearing loss... I know several deaf musicians...
When any amp blows fuses, this indicates that something is drawing too much current. The most common cause are components in the output stage and driver stages that have become defective.
On the amp that is blowing the fuse with the volume being turned up, this means that the output stage is partially working. The short or over-draw of current must be in the output stage, or what is loading it. It is possible in this case that a crossover in a speaker unit is defective, and is drawing too much current. I have seen this with especially sub-woofer crossovers, and the driver itself. Subs pull a lot of current because of the amount of drive power required to have very strong bass sounds. Other than that, this still does not rule out the possibility of the problem being defective components in the amplifier.
You will need to have the amp bench tested at full load to see if there is a pending problem. It will need to see with speaker loading resistors, how much current the amp is drawing and at different frequencies. if the amp checks out with the proper current, at the rated output, have the speaker checked out. Good Luck
If you are blowing fuses this means that you are drawing too much current check your impedance value on your amplifier it should be 8 ohms to match the subwoofer's 8 ohms of impedance. In addition make sure that you have the proper value fuses. In other words you should not be tuning the amp not to blow fuses, because you should be able to go to full amplitude on your amp without blowing anything. As I alluded to this sounds like an impedance mismatch problem.
I hope this helps,
Sounds like you may have a shorted switching Transistor in the switch mode power supply causing a short to ground. If you are technical enough. Remove power remove cover and do a continuity test on the transistors on the heatsink. non of them should read zero resistance between the three legs. in all connection configuration you use to hook up your meter. If one or Two or even all of them do you must replace with proper part.