Question about Viking 31 in. VGSU101 Gas Cooktop
I have a viking (1994) vgs300 dual oven burner, the glow bars will not open the gas valve unless it is tapped to jar open or wait for a very extended time and maybe only one valve will open. I have replaced both glow bars and also the lower dual burner valve. the voltage to the glow bars is 116 volts and my voltage at the receptacle is 120 volts. the amp draw on the glow bars are 2.25 amps. I have put up with this for years and now want to fix it or else. Thanks William
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a viking gas cooktop. The ignitor on one of my front burners wouldn't stop clicking even after the flame ignited. I swapped that ignitor with the ignitor from a back burner, expecting that the problem was with the ignitor and that the back burner would start to click incessantly, but at least I'd have my favorite front burner for use. Instead, the front burner was then only clicking 50% of the time and the back burner was fine, suggesting the problem was related to the burner not the ignitor. I pulled the front ignitor a bit away from the burner and now it is working normally. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 18, 2008
SOURCE: Viking Gas Burner issue?
is this a sealed burner unit? if so the burner base (the heavy brass part under the burner cap) has to be sitting just right. you will notice that it has holes around the the sides make sure that where your ignitor sparks to it that it aligns with the lowest hole on the burner base. if you have a great flame all around the burner after checking what i mentioned i would replace the spark module. if it continues to drive you crazy with the noise - just unplug it. the burners will continue working fine without power.
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
Do not attempt if your stovetop is hot, you will get burned!!
This is an easy fix, the problem is your burners aren't lined up properly. Remove the iron grates (what your pots rest on) and the burner cap (the round black top on the burner) and finally the burner base (the round golden colored piece resting on the stainless stovetop). If you flip the base over you will see that it is keyed, meaning there is a grove that fits the indentation on the stove top. When you replace the base make sure to line the grove up with the indentation. If it's not flush with the stove top, slowly twist the round burner base until it falls into place. That's it!
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
The causes to the clicking is that the ignitors could be wet, dirty (with grease caked on them or cleaning products or a bad spark module). The ignitors are the little white things on the side of each burner with a metal piece on top. If they are wet (let them dry out for 20 - 30 min on a high flame, if dirty sand the metal piece on top with sand paper or nail file. And if it is the spark module and u are technical, order one from the parts department for Viking. You will need ur model and serial # then find out if it is located under the burners or the rear of the range. There are several wires going to the spark module. Best way is to disconnect one by one and connecting it to the new box until all wires are switched from old to new module. Remember to unplug the unit before doing this because you may get shocked. Also if it is a sealed burner system that means that the burner bowls cannot be lifted from the range and water cannot seap under the burners then you could just change all 4 or six burner bases. Viking has adapted them throughout the many complaints and they are better now. Typical cost is: $350 - $400 if spark module is under burners, in rear = $500 - $600. Burner bases = 400 - 600 depending on number of burners and if it is with a venturi or screws. Good luck.
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
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