Question about Refrigerators
My Subzero 550 did this: The right side of the freezer has a drain that is plugged with ice. When the freezer defrosts the water runs down the inside of the box and onto the drawer rails, where it then freezes. The drain tube is normally kept ice free by an aluminum strap wrapped around the copper defrost tube in the freezer heat exchanger, which runs down into the drain tube. Over time the copper defrost tube gets some surface corrosion and the aluminum strap doesn't get warm enough during the defrost cycle to melt ice in the tube. If you can get it apart, you can clean up the tub surface with steel wool, or buy the electric defroster for the drain tube to replace the aluminum strap.
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
take the cover off the fan in the freezer section and see if the fan blade is loose or hitting ice the blade just pushes on make sure the mountings are tight its probably the blade but you might need to replace the motor if i reamber correctly on the cover there is a screw at the bottom you remove then slide the cover up and its on hooks plastic hooks built on the cover ok
Posted on Mar 28, 2008
Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....
Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.
Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
I hope this helps, and if you need more information On solutions just let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
That sound is usually your icemaker calling for water. you can turn off your icemaker by lifting the little arm on the icemaker. As the icemaker calls for water the valve will be activated and will hum. This sound is usually not very loud. If your valve is making that much noise you may consider replacing the valve. The part number for you water inlet valve is #2315533 The retail price is $60.18 . I do have these on hand and available to ship out today if you need one. Please just let me know. You may also consider replacing your filter if your refrigerator has one. Thanks and I hope this will fixYa
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
The 800 number is available at:
Posted on May 30, 2009
The Er Co error code signifies a communication error between the display control board on the freezer door and the main power board on the outer back panel of the refrigerator.
Check the wiring and connections between the low voltage interface and the main high voltage board.
If you are able to unplug the refrigerator and remove the cover over the control board on the back of the refrigerator,
you can check the wiring connection on the main control board.
If this wiring connection is okay, check the wire harness connection under the hinge cover on the top of the left hand refrigerator door.
If these connections are okay, then you will need access the wire harness connection in the dispenser.
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Posted on Sep 25, 2010
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